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Hi,
New F250 owner here. Recently purchased 2017 F250 SRW w/ 6.2 liter 108,000 miles
I've read various posts about this project. I am mechanically inclined. I recently purchased the 2017 f250. Just hit 108,000 miles. I will do the plugs. I have read where if not done correctly can "damage the engine." Only warnings that I have seen about the job is to be sure to warm the engine up prior to doing the job. Are there other steps I should do along the way or prior to to avoid damaging the engine. I am aware of the torque specs of 159inlb. I have seen several how to videos, so I am confident about that. Just want to be sure I am not missing some other important info prior to starting as I don't want to damage the engine.
I changed the plugs on my '17 6.2 liter engine. It was straightforward, though some plugs are hard to reach.
I had an intermittent misfire prior to doing this and hoped to fix it with new plugs. No dice. Knowing which cylinder it was thanks to my scan tool I then changed the plug wire between the plugs for that cylinder. Again no dice. Replacing the coil fixed it. In the 120K miles I had that truck I replaced two coils to cure misfiring, so you may want to consider replacing the coils and plug wires when doing the plugs, as you'll have them loose anyway.
Going to do mine tomorrow, 50000 on the motor so I'm not going to replace the coils unless one looks bad. I was told the torque spec for the plugs is 25lb/ft dry. I haven't decided if I'm going to use anti seize on the plugs or not, everybody has a different opinion on that.
I would not torque any spark plugs into an aluminum head at 25 foot pounds haha. The other fellows recommendation of 159 inch pounds is around 13 1/2 foot pounds. pretty much every dirtbike spark plug is around 14 foot pounds they get changed often and suffer lots of vibration,. and your ginormous torque wrench that goes up to 100 foot pounds is woefully inaccurate down at that level so you better get a quarter inch torque wrench that maxes out at maybe 20 foot pounds so you get an accurate value for torque.I usually put on the hint of a copper anti-seize on every spark plug I ever change. and change them at 50,000 miles is way too early, I did my 2011 6.2 L at 125,000 miles and the plugs still looked great The Ford plug's temp was perfect, yeah, the gaps had opened maybe .005"-.010" of an inch but they were all still firing. That truck engine spent probably 25% of its time at wide-open throttle towing heavy in the mountains in the full RPM range
I recommend doing the research on anti-seize and spark plugs and decide. For sure the wet torque value required is substantially less than the dry torque spec value published, and you can overtorque spark plugs by applying the "recommended torque" on an anti-seize coated threads. I am reading that most spark plug manufacturers add a plating to their plug threads making anti-seize not necessary, and they recommend against using anti-seize. Maybe check with the plug manufacturer and see what they say?
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