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Good morning everyone! Fixed one issue and on to the next.
My rear passenger window has never worked since I purchased the vehicle. So the other day I removed the door panel and noted that the motor would not operate despite everything being properly connected. I began diagnosis.
1. Purchased a new motor, installed it. Still no movement. Brought old motor to drivers side and it operated. Ruled out motor.
2. Switched rear drivers and passenger side switches. Drivers side operated with passenger switch installed. Drivers installed on passenger, still doesn't operate. Ruled out rear passenger switch.
3. Obtained wiring diagrams and component testing procedures from repair manual. Discovered that all signals first go through front drivers master switch so tested that. There are two abnormalities that I discovered. At the front driver's side master switch C504a pin 2 and C504b pin 4 (ye/lg wire) shows an open circuit when it should be closed. At the rear passenger switch, pin 1 and 2 should be closed but they're consistently 10-30 ohms (not technically closed).
4. With everything connected, all switches at rest, there is a constant 8v being supplied to both sides of the rear passenger window... From what I gathered with the ye/lg wire being the window lock initiator(?), I do not know why, but I decided to cut this wire to see if that would allow operation. It did not work. HOWEVER, now the voltage was zero at rest on both sides of motor but would only increase to 0.5 v up/down instead of the required 12...
5. I read online somewhere that all of this could be related to a faulty master switch. Purchased a new front drivers master switch but nothing changed. Still have the broken window and 8v at rest. Ruled out front drivers master switch.
I cannot even definitively say where the 8v is coming from nor how to stop it, if that even is the sole problem. I have no clue where to go from here. Any tips? Maybe looking upstream at the accessory delay relay or battery saver relay? I cannot imagine that this would solve the issue that far down through multiple separate switches. I also do not understand why the other three windows operate normally without issue.
I am on team YE/LG wire being the problem. But I have no justification or idea on how to confirm this.
I am glad that you mentioned this. Shortly after posting I found YouTube video about a different vehicle and they recommended the same. So I took my multimeter and checked continuity to which I had no continuity on two of the wires at both connectors. So I began searching for the break. I checked in the front driver's jamb (visually and with MM) and also the rear passenger (visually and with MM). Both had continuity so I figured that the break must be somewhere under the carpet. Out of S&G I connected rear door jamb to driver's connector and had continuity... Which makes no sense to me because that rules out the entire "under carpet" section, however the rear door jamb also tested fine.
SO I cut the two wires being supplied from the master switch to the individual switch and grounded each one. The window now operates via the individual rear switch. I was afraid to semi-permanently connect them all together (the two from master and ground) to see if the master switch can operate it. I think the solution here will be running two fresh wires from master to this switch.
Just to finish this off, I ran two wires from master switch to rear right switch and we're all good. Somewhere there must be a short but easier to run new wires than search under the carpet for the short!
Just to finish this off, I ran two wires from master switch to rear right switch and we're all good. Somewhere there must be a short but easier to run new wires than search under the carpet for the short!
Probably not a short, probably open. And usually it's where the bundle of wires go from the body to the door. In many cases you can hold the window button while swinging the door back & forth and get intermittent operation, that guarantees it's a broken wire in the door jamb. It could also be that one of those wires got pulled out of the connector, not common, but I've seen it. Too late for you obviously, but it might help someone reading.
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