All the stuff to do the plug change on my 6.2 should be here by Wednesday so I plan on doing it next Friday. What are the plugs supposed to be gapped at? I know they come pre gapped but I like to double check them and I know some motors run better with a slightly modified gap from the factory setting.

Also, I know there is a torque spec for the plugs but with the minimal amount of room in the engine compartment I don't see how you're going to get a larger torque wrench to work. How tight are you guys putting your plugs when going by feel, like 1/8 turn past finger tight or more/less? I will be putting antiseze on the threads.

 

The gap is .044. I had no problem getting my torque wrench into the compartment with just a few extensions. I torqued mine to 25 DRY just like Ford did, they are a taper seat not a compression ring so do not turn them after they seat just torque them. Breaking the old ones loose takes a little effort so don't be afraid to pull on them to get them break loose. Be sure to change the wires, resistors and boots at the same time. Be sure to have a few extensions on hand, I found a swivel extension that worked great for #5 bottom plug.

Denny

 

25 in/lbs or ft/lbs? I have a bunch of extensions and a swivel end so I should be good to go there. Plan on changing everything except the COPs.

 

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It's ft/lbs. The resistors can be hard to get out, just take a small screw driver and work them back and forth and then tap the coil on your bench to get it out. They tend to stick to the coil contact, you can use the same screw driver to clean the coil contact. If the resistor goes bad it will arc over it eating away at the coil housing that holds the resister in place.

Denny