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I did the buzz test and it showed cylinder 8 had a fault, then did it again after trying to start it (ran for 3 seconds) and the test also gave the Bank 2 fault. I'm replacing the main wiring harness this afternoon. Old one is out, now the hard part...
I have a dorman. Had to replace it when i changed injectors, it was fine, until flexed with r&r... it gets brittle, and i wasmt gonna risk it. Imo, dorman can work fine, just plan to replace the dang thing whenever you pull a valve cover.
I have a dorman. Had to replace it when i changed injectors, it was fine, until flexed with r&r... it gets brittle, and i wasmt gonna risk it. Imo, dorman can work fine, just plan to replace the dang thing whenever you pull a valve cover.
I agree with this, I ran dorman UVCH for around 4 years but ended up changing them to motorcraft ( with 52 cent mod) when I replaced my injectors. The dormans did fine but hearing about some of the problems they have with insulation deteriorating made me swap them out. Dorman seem to be ok for a temporary fix but don't trust their electrical stuff for long term.
I replaced the main wiring harness and reran the buzz test - same result. cylinder 8 and Bank 2 injector errors. So I guess I'll be pulling the valve cover and replacing this one AGAIN!
I replaced the main wiring harness and reran the buzz test - same result. cylinder 8 and Bank 2 injector errors. So I guess I'll be pulling the valve cover and replacing this one AGAIN!
Have you checked the wire insulation where the wires drape over the driver side valve cover right before the 42 pin plug? This is a known spot for wires to rub through and cause all kinds of problems. Being that you have already changed the UVCH a couple of times you might want to do some more investigating.
I didn’t notice any issues on the tangled mess of wiring yesterday but I’ll look at the drivers side tonight.
big question: where do I find the real gaskets/harnesses? I’m suspicious that most everything now is the afternoon stuff. Is there a reliable site to search?
I didn’t notice any issues on the tangled mess of wiring yesterday but I’ll look at the drivers side tonight.
big question: where do I find the real gaskets/harnesses? I’m suspicious that most everything now is the afternoon stuff. Is there a reliable site to search?
Riffraff diesel or diesel o rings are 2 great sources for parts
Rockauto is a trusted source also. If they list a Motorcraft part, a Motorcraft part is what you'll receive. The problem w/ them is they don't always have the Motorcraft stuff and their shipping is starting to get ridiculous. I actually was about to buy a seal kit from them yesterday until I got to the shipping. Their quote was $5 for an unnamed carrier (just said Mail) w/ a delivery time of 9 days. Next option was USPS for $6 and 7 days to get a bag of o rings and a gasket that weighed less than half a pound. After that the price was getting to the point it negated any savings and still didn't get in the 2-3 day range for delivery.
The buzz test was normal - all of them sounded identical so I was surprised to see the cylinder 8 error again. I can’t find any problems with the 42-pin wiring harness.
Any thoughts on the IDM? It was replaced about 15 months ago at a shop. I don’t know who made it. I’m not even sure where it is…
IDM is located inside driver side front fender, pretty much right behind the fender emblem. Pull the wheel liner for access.
Too early to go swapping IDMs yet, not a cheap part. Kind of a PITA but you could pull it out and give it a shake. Common issue on OEM IDMs is water intrusion due to the vent. I assumed all aftermarket IDMs plugged that vent (my reman did) but maybe not.
Before that I'd look at the UVCH connections under the covers to see if they are properly connected. A smarter guy than me would ohm the injectors from the VC connectors or 42 pin.
Ok, the latest update: I took off the driver’s side valve cover and found that the cylinder 8 wires were on top and pinched. The glow plug pvc coating was split so I was really hoping the new good gasket and harness would fix everything. Alas, that was not the case. I put everything back together and it started right up and even sounded good for a few seconds before stumbling again. Ran the ForScan and TorquePro again and found exactly the same codes as before… Rats. The buzz test showed cylinder 8 with the same issue (P0282) and now cylinder 6 with P1272. Bank 2 still giving P1296. Also, P0683, 1209, 1210, 1211, and 1316 show up on the scans. I cleared everything multiple times only for everything to come back.
Next, I checked on the IDM which still looks brand new. It looks like a quality reman unit and there was no corrosion on any connections.
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