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Since you're asking about removing the smog pump and the egr you probably don't care much about the catalytic converter. But just as a piece of information, if you are still running a 2 way catalytic converter (the reason why there is a smog pump) it can and will eventual clog after you remove the smog pump. This will cause a considerable loss in power and exhaust leaks. To avoid this it would be best to replace it with a newer highflow catalytic converter, or since you don't seem to care about emissions, just remove it entirely.
They say, as I have not tried it, that the throttle and auto transmission kick down if you have one, will not line up as the carb now sits to low and the valve cover gets in the way.
Then once the EGR plate is off you have the port opening that would need to be blocked off.
So with that said I would leave the EGR plate pull the valve off it and make a block off plate between the valve & plate and put the valve back in place and just done hook the vacuum line back up.
Because I am running EFI EXH manifolds I used a plug in the intake manifold to seal off the EGR port but put the EGR plate & valve back in place and no vacuum to it.
Dave ----
I have a manual transmission so I don't think the kickdown will be an issue, do you think anyone sells a riser for the carb to sit properly?
The original reason for starting this thread was because the gasket under the carb mounting plate is broken and causing a leak. I was just looking under the hood and I found a ⅜ line that wasn't connected and doesn't look like it does connect anywhere. When I plug it with my thumb it makes the truck idle lower. I took a video but it is too big to upload on here. This is the line, it goes to the valve cover on the top of the connector. Where does this plug into?
The original reason for starting this thread was because the gasket under the carb mounting plate is broken and causing a leak. I was just looking under the hood and I found a ⅜ line that wasn't connected and doesn't look like it does connect anywhere. When I plug it with my thumb it makes the truck idle lower. I took a video but it is too big to upload on here. This is the line, it goes to the valve cover on the top of the connector. Where does this plug into?
I think that is your purge line for the charcoal canister. Do you still have the canister mounted down low on the frame? It's a plastic black box.
That would be somewhat of a vacuum leak. That piece in the valve cover is the PCV valve. That is hooked to manifold vacuum, it sucks the bad gases out of the inside of the engine. Since it is a large hose going to the intake, they have the PCV valve calibrated to only let a certain amount of gases through. In other words, it's normally a vacuum leak, but it is a planned vacuum leak. Your open hose is sucking air through the fitting at the top of the PCV valve. So more air than usual is getting into the engine, the reason why it slowed down when you plugged it. It should not be left open. If you do not plan on hooking up the EVAP system, then I would get another rubber cap and pull that line off and cap the top of the PCV valve. Then you will probably need to re-tune your carb since you have gotten rid of that leak.
do you think anyone sells a riser for the carb to sit properly?
I kinda doubt it. Such a spacer would be considered an emissions defeat device. The EPA has really cracked down on such products the last few years. There's still a gray area where some products are sold for racing or off-road use only, but that market faces a lot of scrutiny from the powers that be.
And even if you find a legit racing products manufacturer, there's not a lot of guys racing the straight 6. Nobody will be producing products for a non-existent market with no demand. You might have an easier time finding racing parts for a Prius.
I think that is your purge line for the charcoal canister. Do you still have the canister mounted down low on the frame? It's a plastic black box.
That would be somewhat of a vacuum leak. That piece in the valve cover is the PCV valve. That is hooked to manifold vacuum, it sucks the bad gases out of the inside of the engine. Since it is a large hose going to the intake, they have the PCV valve calibrated to only let a certain amount of gases through. In other words, it's normally a vacuum leak, but it is a planned vacuum leak. Your open hose is sucking air through the fitting at the top of the PCV valve. So more air than usual is getting into the engine, the reason why it slowed down when you plugged it. It should not be left open. If you do not plan on hooking up the EVAP system, then I would get another rubber cap and pull that line off and cap the top of the PCV valve. Then you will probably need to re-tune your carb since you have gotten rid of that leak.
Is the charcoal box just under the battery kind of in front of the wheel well?
I have a manual transmission so I don't think the kickdown will be an issue, do you think anyone sells a riser for the carb to sit properly?
I dont know of anyone that dose.
There is talk of the Canada trucks did not have a EGR so they got spacer plates but trying to find one is like hens teeth.
So you either have to make your own or just leave the EGR plate in place and dont hook up the vacuum to it.
You couls also pull the valve off and make a blank off plate and bolt the valve beck in place.
Originally Posted by Franklin2
I think that is your purge line for the charcoal canister. Do you still have the canister mounted down low on the frame? It's a plastic black box.
That would be somewhat of a vacuum leak. That piece in the valve cover is the PCV valve. That is hooked to manifold vacuum, it sucks the bad gases out of the inside of the engine. Since it is a large hose going to the intake, they have the PCV valve calibrated to only let a certain amount of gases through. In other words, it's normally a vacuum leak, but it is a planned vacuum leak. Your open hose is sucking air through the fitting at the top of the PCV valve. So more air than usual is getting into the engine, the reason why it slowed down when you plugged it. It should not be left open. If you do not plan on hooking up the EVAP system, then I would get another rubber cap and pull that line off and cap the top of the PCV valve. Then you will probably need to re-tune your carb since you have gotten rid of that leak.
DaveF is right if you have the hose routing on the radiator support is should show how it is run.
My 81 sticker shows it going to a purge valve and it Teeing into the carb bowl vent line going to the canisters.
I dont have the purge valve so I just have it Teed into the carb bowl line but had to add a restriction or as you found causes a vacuum leak and the idle to be too high.
Dave ----
I dont know of anyone that dose.
There is talk of the Canada trucks did not have a EGR so they got spacer plates but trying to find one is like hens teeth.
So you either have to make your own or just leave the EGR plate in place and dont hook up the vacuum to it.
You couls also pull the valve off and make a blank off plate and bolt the valve beck in place.
DaveF is right if you have the hose routing on the radiator support is should show how it is run.
My 81 sticker shows it going to a purge valve and it Teeing into the carb bowl vent line going to the canisters.
I dont have the purge valve so I just have it Teed into the carb bowl line but had to add a restriction or as you found causes a vacuum leak and the idle to be too high.
Dave ----
So mine looks like this (bottom of second picture), it has a small line from the fuel tank vent valves and a larger line going to the carb bowl. I was wondering if I could tee it into that larger line like I lined up in the first picture.
So mine looks like this (bottom of second picture), it has a small line from the fuel tank vent valves and a larger line going to the carb bowl. I was wondering if I could tee it into that larger line like I lined up in the first picture.
You are not going to continue the theme you have going, taking stuff off the engine? I would hook it up correctly or plug it.
You are not going to continue the theme you have going, taking stuff off the engine? I would hook it up correctly or plug it.
Yeah I think that's the smart decision. I'm still gonna have to pull the carb and get a new gasket for the egr/smog pump plate but its not as daunting now.
I think your set up is different than mine and where that hose gets hooked to.
Do you have the sticker on the radiator support, that should have where it goes.
It also mine not go to anything and dose need to be plugged off.
When you buy a new PCV that top nipple is not open you have to cut the end off to open it up.
Dave ----
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