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Depends on where you live. If they look under the hood and see it's missing, they will not give you a sticker or registration or whatever is required where you live.
You can. Check for belt routing if it's gone. Also check for exhaust leaks when you pull it out. You may need to plug a line to prevent exhaust from leaking out. That is what it does, it pumps air into the exhaust system.
You can. But you can't just take it off, you will end up with a huge vacuum leak AND a exhaust leak also. There is another thread on here where people were looking for a spacer under the carb to take place of the EGR spacer.
It runs great, i rebuilt the carb about 3 months ago and its run like a champ ever since. I have a leak from the gasket under the carburetor base plate and was wondering since I have to pull the carb anyways if I can get rid of all the crap in the way.
How much effort would it take to throw the carb straight onto the intake manifold and get rid of everything in-between?
You could try it, but I think you will quickly find out it will not work out as planned. But that would be a good exercise in figuring out exactly what you need to do it. I would get some notebook paper and hold it over the top of the egr spacer after the carb is removed. Rub your finger over the paper and the pattern for the carb will appear. Then take the EGR plate off and do the same with the intake pattern.
How much effort would it take to throw the carb straight onto the intake manifold and get rid of everything in-between?
They say, as I have not tried it, that the throttle and auto transmission kick down if you have one, will not line up as the carb now sits to low and the valve cover gets in the way.
Then once the EGR plate is off you have the port opening that would need to be blocked off.
So with that said I would leave the EGR plate pull the valve off it and make a block off plate between the valve & plate and put the valve back in place and just done hook the vacuum line back up.
Because I am running EFI EXH manifolds I used a plug in the intake manifold to seal off the EGR port but put the EGR plate & valve back in place and no vacuum to it.
Dave ----
If its like the ones on 87-96 efi motors you can take it apart, pull the vanes to effectively gut it, repack the bearings and put back together it essentially becomes an idler pulley.
If its like the ones on 87-96 efi motors you can take it apart, pull the vanes to effectively gut it, repack the bearings and put back together it essentially becomes an idler pulley.
The difference is the EFI motors use 1 belt where ours use a bunch of V belts.
There are a few different belt setups between AC and non-AC and how the air pumps are driven.
My truck did not have the pump on the motor and cant remember how the belt was run but I also added AC to the truck.
Dave ----
I realize that, im talking about the inside of the pump.
I know you said the vanes inside the pump but on the 80 - 86 300 motors with V belts there is no reason to pull the vanes when you can just remove the pump like the OP asked about.
On one of the motors (AC?) the pump runs off the ALT pulley so it is nothing to remove the belt and pump.
But as you said could pull the guts and not have to deal with belts or any of the open hoses / lines.
Dave ----
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