Theres all this speculation about using a diesel turbo... Does the 300 really put out enough air to spool something that big, I mean coming from the import side (no IM not a ricer im just making references) on of the biggest turbos you can get is a greddy t88 (rated to over 1000HP) or even a garret gt 60 (supports a max of 2200 HP) is dwarfed by the size of a deisal turbo. I know it all depends on the trim, but you people will probably be alot happier with something smaller like the garret GT 40 with the 88 mm/ 54 mm trims, which at about 8 psi or so will be at peak effiecency between 300 and 400 HP, which is right where a 200-250 HP NA motor would be.

 

I had not thought of using the TransAm setup before. Thanks for that. Sounds like the best idea so far.

 

Anyone know the volumetric efficiency of a 4.9 300? I know it varies with mods as well as heads ect, but it something tells me it might be a bit 'off' just judging by the way the motor performs.

 

Sorry to double post, after a bit of researching, all I can say is... I want the turbo. Need some money to buy 1, but the motor it came off of, 301, yellow on the 301 was 4500 with red at 6. Sounds like the inline. I bet this could be madddddd fun. HAHAH

 

I have a turbo charged 300 inline in my f150 I been working on it for about 2 years off and on since I have been going to school however I am on my 3rd rebuild for the reason that I keep on cracking my cast pistons its the only thing that I have skimped on in the past. But I'm getting ready to put it back together once again just waiting on some funds to by forged pistons everything else has worked excellent.I purcahsed off a friend an 06 powerstroke innercooler that does fit with minor fabricating it streches from the top of the core support all the way to the bottem of my bumper. I used a vortech 12.1 FMU to increase my fuel pressure also I purchased a holley high output inline fuel pump that will not work with the stock sending unit so I also bought a fuel cell. I swapped out the stock grey injectors for the orange ones that I had laying around out of a windsor motor. I pulled both stock tanks out and spliced an 8 gauge speaker wire in all the way from the pump wich is at the back of the truck right up to the relay and then from there to the battery by doing this it was the diference between night and day. So i'm using a turbo off a 95 cummins which in my thoughts is way to big because I keep on having over boost problems 28lbs!! so with those turbos there is a vain down the middle of it and i'm hoping by machining that vain out that my wastgate will blow off more of that exhaust. I also bought that msd 6btm which I dont realy think does anything because it runs better at 0 degrees of retard but I will screw with that a little more when I get it running in this next month. I aslo had ARP make me head stud, rod bolts, and main studs for the engine. and I bought COMPS biggest cam that they made for the truck which was 456lift with 10 degrees of lobe seperation. I recomed that if anyone who wants to try this stick to a manuall trans because I spent way to much money hopping up that E40D peice of crap although it works excellent now I wish I would have done five speed swap.

So I was wondering if anyone knows a place were I can get pistons for under $600.00 I'f so I would be much appreciative.
Oh yeah lightnings are slow!!!

 

I do have a short clip of me doing a burn out that my buddy took using his camera phone so its not the best but it still tells the story.

 

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Does anyone actually have a carbed buick drawthrough system working on a truck
I just got mine (turbo) taken apart and ordered the rebuild kit from Gpopshop today
and will start on setting it up soon
just wondering how fast the T-3 .42 A/R turbo will spool on the truck. I hope it spools fast considering it only revs to like 3500
It will have a 390 cfm holly 4bbl carb (too small?) and clifford intake with EFI exhaust manifolds
Also it has a stock 1977 bottom end with EFI head is that too much compression?

 

What I'm seeing is lots of info about what turbos to possibly use, but the descriptions of the setups are a little bit hard to picture in my mind. Could somebody post pictures or preferrably a DIAGRAM outlining blow-through vs draw-through setups or how people are running their turbo 300 setups?

Secondly,
Somebody asked about superchargers, but then it was said that there aren't any. Nobody has one?
I wanted to acquire a super-low boost setup so that I won't have that 30% power loss when driving in the mountains as well as some very minimal extra grunt, as well as to help maintain a constant atmospheric pressure so that power remains the same at any altitude.

Thanks,
The Fordvan

 

Cant get you pics, but draw through, the exhaust gasses spin the turbine, in essance creating a vaccum in the intake of the turbo, which "draws" air through the carb, and pulling fuel down with it. A blow through puts the carb between the turbo and the engine, the turbo is spun by exhaust gasses, and then the air is compressed on the other side, and "blown" through the carb. Both setups will require special techniques to make them work. Most turbo seals wont hold up when exposed to gasoline, and a carb used for a blow through will require prep because it will see positive pressure and not a vaccum.

 

I'm going today to install my drawthrough system hopefully it works
Will post in detail once its done

 

Everyone in here seems to be talking carbed turbo setups. Why?!

EFI is a much more tuneable, and in the end, easier setup. You don't need the EFI or custom intake manifold to do it either. You can have someone drill and weld bosses for injectors in an Offy manifold and make a custom mount for a throttle body of your choice. In my eyes, it is a much simpler solution. Plus, with the anti-knock, WBO2 sensors, and temp sensors on the market in conjunction with some of the DIY EFI systems, you could have a lot more power and efficiency with more peace of mind.

 

Hey Arthur, you got me thinking!

 

Thinking is usually a good thing .

Yeah, after doing a turbo project on a mercedes, I have a lot more respect for EFI and making sure the fuel/air end of things is the most it can be. Really makes a turbo project worth it instead of building a box around a carb, or trying to tune a draw through.

 

The main issue that most have with forced induction on an EFI 300 is the desire to stay with Ford EEC. Almost all are speed density which does not play nice with boost without a lot of work.

MAF conversion can be done and stay with Ford computers, but...most liking will have to use a V8 computer that is them tweek'd to run the six. If staying with EEC-IV and staying with one that is specific to the 300 there is only one limited application, 1995 California (thou some NY trucks may also have this for the same year). The part numbers, that i've found, are F3TF-VA and VB for manual transmission app's. The problem I've had so far is that no one seams to know which program code(s) was used. Add to that since it is such a limited run aftermarket "canned" support may not exist.

For those that are willing to push the envelope there are some after market tools for downloading the stock tables. If the table maps have been decifered then it's just a matter of burning a new set of maps for an override chip. Should also be able to do things like disable EGR, add larger injectors without lowering fuel pressure, etc.

The Ford EEC's are robust enough to get the job done for the 300. Just need to know which ones have the base programming you need and how to talk to them to get what you want.

The EFI intake should handle the airflow of a streetable turbo app. Just needs some cleanup of the runners and maybe the plenum. The bigger issue is getting the head to breath. After all, if the engine is trying to breath through the equivelent a bent cocktail straw, boosting the deliveried pressure is only going to create more problems to solve.

I'm tinkering with this idea for a while. I like the idea of a streetable turbo'd EFI 300. Especially if by using a Ford computer I can make it "look" factory.