Its possible your mpg would improve but it really depends on how well matched everything is (turbo, fuel delivery, etc.) and how well its tuned.

The miles really don't matter, the condition of the engine does.

The simplest thing you could do, would be perform a compresson test, you can get a gauge at your local auto parts store and it shouldn't cost more than 30 dollars or so. This would give you a fair idea of the condition. Wouldn't give you any idea of the bearings condition, etc.. If tearing it down, inspecting and replacing as needed isn't an option, install with the realization, the engine may come right back out.

 

I have used a vacuum cannister and vacuum pump which worked well enough for most things except for the brake booster. There I had to use a hydraulic booster because my pump did not draw a sufficient volume for the big booster diaphram.

 

If you do this, you are likely to be in for a lot of fabrication and experimentation. But I like the idea of using the turbo coupe unit for cost reasons. Thing is you would need to run two of them. The advantage is that small turbos spool up quickly so they minimize turbo lag. Lots of performance tuners use twin turbos for this reason, much better throttle response. And one would not provide the volume needed for the 300 six anyway. But if they are cheap, and you have the ability to do the necessary fabrication, I think it is a good way to have big turbo power on a budget. Give a lot of thought to running an intercooler. It adds a lot to the project but it will pay dividends because of all the heat related problems inherent with turbos, and much increased power. The heat factor is huge. The turbo heat expands the air that you are trying to compress. The intercooler shrinks it so you need less boost pressure to achieve the power gains that you are after. Puts a lot less strain on your cooling system too. If you don't run an intercooler, be ready for major cooling system upgrades.

You need plenty of underhood space for all the hardware and plumbing.
I have seen a 4.2L Cherokee with a big hole cut in the hood for an air-to-air intercooler whick looked bad/ worked good.

If you have a vacuum power brake booster, you will need a super-sized vacuum resevoir and may need a vacuum pump too. Consider using a hydraulic brake booster instead.

 

If the engine is a high milage unit, plastigauge your bottom end and check the compression. If it's all good then go ahead with the turbo.

I am not positive about the mpg, but a principle that may apply is this: It is more economical to run full throttle at a lower rpm than to run at higher rpm in a lower gear at the same speed over the ground. So if you have more torque as a result of the turbo, less downshifting may result in better MPG.

 

What year 300 ZX did the turbo come out of? Here is the setup i was thinking of......Bring the exhause up the passanger side into the turbo and then take it back down. Put the airbox on the passanger side and move the battery to the driver side. air will enter the intercooler on the passanger side and exit the driver side so it can make the turn into the TB. Keep in mind this is an EFI...so a chip would be needed and prolly a cam also? What are the thoughts on that setup?.....please dont hurt me

 

Sounds reasonable. How do you forsee using your vehicle? If the turbo is for low end grunt work it should work out fine. But remember the ZX turbo is designed for a three liter, not a five liter.

 

Others have mentioned the zx turbo......what turbo would best suit the 4.9 for overall power and acceleration?

 

Informative.



https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=250890

 

I was wondering. i have an 81 f150 and looking to turbo it to get a little more power when i am off road since that involves low rpm would a torbo of a little dissel work. like one off a little toyota or something. thanx

 

A small one from a ZX or a Supra would work for low end grunt work but will actually be a restriction at high rpm. A big one from a large diesel would be less beneficial at lower rpm but better at the top.

If you go to the Garrett site you can probably find the optimum size.

There are a ton of turbos on ebay.

 

After reading the forum in that link i think i'm goin with a turbo from the 6.5L GM turbo diesel. This project is a ways out for me because i currently have another truck project goin and i want to finish it first so i'll have somthing to drive while i give the ole I-6 a swift kick. I'v alredy started workin it out on paper though.....pretty excited.

 

use a to4b
boost will start around 2200 rpm.

 

the 6.5 chevy is said to start around 1500

 

Wow....just what I was looking for. Found this site/post a while back, but just recently became a member.

From the posts, maybe I'm lucky to have a non computerized engine. I've taken the first step in a turbo-ing a 300 I6.... I picked up a rebuilt long block for just under 600, nothing fancy, just stock.

I can't seem to decide which method would be best, blow through carb or the draw through. The blow through would seem the easiest since one wouldn't have to warm the air or mixture in a draw through (forgot what it was called, but it was on a schematic I downloaded some time ago for draw through systems).

For the exhaust, thought of using a later model type (two manifolds) and then Y them together and put turbo there.... Intake- one from JC Whitney topped w/ a 2 barrel carb.

Guess I better get a note book and jot down notes....

 

If you are using a 4.9 with a standard HEI ignition and a carb set-upuse aturbo setup from a 4.9 Turbo TransAm. the sizing is correct,the carb is there, all you have to do is graft the turbo to the intake and then plumb the exhaust to the bottom of the turbo. You will want to be able to retard the ignition as the boost goes up to keep the engine out of detonation. If you look on the TurboMustang site it is full of ways to do this with a Ford ignition system or use a MSD with Boost retard function or use a http://www.jandssafeguard.com/ type system. When I built my first twin Turboed 455 buick I grafted two drawthough turbos with two carbs and all to it and it ran good. You can hunt the internet and get a set of custom made copper head gaskets to drop the compression or spring for custom pistons to get the compression down. I do not have the name now of the company that made mine for the Buick it's been so long ago. I sold the car to the guy that helped me build it andd it now has a blow-through twin T-boes with EFI Via FAST EFI. http://www.thedinosaurgang.com/default.htm
I plan to in the future buy a early 70's pickup witha 240CID and install a 300 head aand add a draw-through Buick system on it.
http://www.gpopshop.com/
Can hook you up with the correct turbo with a built in wastegate at a reasonable price. He can also rebuild a used turbo with seals to stand the gas on a draw through also.