LED cluster swap
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 39
Likes: 2
From: Northern California
LED cluster swap
Hey guys just did an LED cluster light swap on my 74. Now my gauges won’t work. The gauges all were working before swap. Any ideas? I cleaned connections and harness looks good. Thanks for the help!
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 39
Likes: 2
From: Northern California
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 39
Likes: 2
From: Northern California
I’m honestly starting to think it’s the board. It’s just weird how it was working but now nothing.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,502
Likes: 339
From: Wildwood Pa
I'd check for gauge IVR power at the plug, just to be sure. It may be #14, it should have 2 black wires in the gauge IVR power spot. Should have less then 12 V at that location with the key on.
If you have power there, test the instrument panel voltage regulator. Its the small silver box on the back of the cluster, has hookup like a 9 V battery on it. Remove it from the cluster, hook the ground on a battery charger to the case. Hook positive on the charger to the smaller terminal on the IVR. Set your multimeter to 20VDC, turn the battery charger on, ground one wire to the IVR case, the other wire to the larger terminal on the IVR. Voltage should slowly pulse up & down, Maybe 5-6V to 0. If it doesn't, IVR is bad.
Your PC looks fine. The bad ones I've had are obvious: burned up traces, copper traces peeling up & broken.
If you have power there, test the instrument panel voltage regulator. Its the small silver box on the back of the cluster, has hookup like a 9 V battery on it. Remove it from the cluster, hook the ground on a battery charger to the case. Hook positive on the charger to the smaller terminal on the IVR. Set your multimeter to 20VDC, turn the battery charger on, ground one wire to the IVR case, the other wire to the larger terminal on the IVR. Voltage should slowly pulse up & down, Maybe 5-6V to 0. If it doesn't, IVR is bad.
Your PC looks fine. The bad ones I've had are obvious: burned up traces, copper traces peeling up & broken.
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 39
Likes: 2
From: Northern California
I'd check for gauge IVR power at the plug, just to be sure. It may be #14, it should have 2 black wires in the gauge IVR power spot. Should have less then 12 V at that location with the key on.
If you have power there, test the instrument panel voltage regulator. Its the small silver box on the back of the cluster, has hookup like a 9 V battery on it. Remove it from the cluster, hook the ground on a battery charger to the case. Hook positive on the charger to the smaller terminal on the IVR. Set your multimeter to 20VDC, turn the battery charger on, ground one wire to the IVR case, the other wire to the larger terminal on the IVR. Voltage should slowly pulse up & down, Maybe 5-6V to 0. If it doesn't, IVR is bad.
Your PC looks fine. The bad ones I've had are obvious: burned up traces, copper traces peeling up & broken.
If you have power there, test the instrument panel voltage regulator. Its the small silver box on the back of the cluster, has hookup like a 9 V battery on it. Remove it from the cluster, hook the ground on a battery charger to the case. Hook positive on the charger to the smaller terminal on the IVR. Set your multimeter to 20VDC, turn the battery charger on, ground one wire to the IVR case, the other wire to the larger terminal on the IVR. Voltage should slowly pulse up & down, Maybe 5-6V to 0. If it doesn't, IVR is bad.
Your PC looks fine. The bad ones I've had are obvious: burned up traces, copper traces peeling up & broken.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 39
Likes: 2
From: Northern California
Still having issues with this situation. Bummer because everything was working fine before I put these LED plug and play lights in. They all work fine and it’s nice and bright. Put a new voltage regulator on thinking that was the issue and still nothing. Pretty frustrating lol. Any other ideas?
my harness to the back is kinda different it doesn’t have any wire going into #14 like I have seen here and in other threads on FTE.
2,4,6,8 and 14 have nothing going to them.
my harness to the back is kinda different it doesn’t have any wire going into #14 like I have seen here and in other threads on FTE.
2,4,6,8 and 14 have nothing going to them.
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Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 39
Likes: 2
From: Northern California
yea I’m about to just put the old style lights in honesty and try that…
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,502
Likes: 339
From: Wildwood Pa
The gauges should be powered by the terminal location with 1 or 2 black wires running to it. That wire should have a faint green tracer on it, & say "resistance wire do not cut or splice". Check for voltage at that wire, where it goes in to the plug.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 39
Likes: 2
From: Northern California
