Ecm questions
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 137
Likes: 31
Ecm questions
Hey guys. I am trying to source a 1994-1996 ecm for a zf5 460.
I did a manual swap in my truck, and the automatic computer wasn’t working properly, so I used my donor computer… which is an 89, and it runs but not very well… sluggish, and romping idle.
Long story short, I have a 1994.5 f250 with a 5 speed now, and I need to source an ecm that will work with it properly. Everywhere I look online I see so many things about vin and computer part # but none of these places say what that means.
So if someone could at least get me a zf5 460 vin# for those years, or let me know where I can get an ecm that would be great. I checked all of my local junkyards, and they have nothing.
and some clarification on all of the part#s and what is compatible with my truck would be nice too.
Thanks!
I did a manual swap in my truck, and the automatic computer wasn’t working properly, so I used my donor computer… which is an 89, and it runs but not very well… sluggish, and romping idle.
Long story short, I have a 1994.5 f250 with a 5 speed now, and I need to source an ecm that will work with it properly. Everywhere I look online I see so many things about vin and computer part # but none of these places say what that means.
So if someone could at least get me a zf5 460 vin# for those years, or let me know where I can get an ecm that would be great. I checked all of my local junkyards, and they have nothing.
and some clarification on all of the part#s and what is compatible with my truck would be nice too.
Thanks!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,785
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
There is no real reason why any vendor requires a VIN when ordering these computers. I suppose they are using it as a CYA of sorts.
One thing that may be causing your sluggish issue is the ignition system on 1994 and up trucks uses Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD). That means the computer is not only controlling the spark timing but also the length of time the spark is triggered. 1993 and earlier trucks use the older Push-Start ignition where the Ignition Control Module (ICM) controls the dwell. No, it is not a simple swap to use the older gray Push-Start ICM on your truck.
I recall from your other thread a few details, but for the life cannot understand why the existing auto PCM (computer) is not working nicely with your manual swap. The only thing most folks end up doing, when retaining the auto PCM, is keep the MLPS wired in and set it to Neutral.
One thing that may be causing your sluggish issue is the ignition system on 1994 and up trucks uses Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD). That means the computer is not only controlling the spark timing but also the length of time the spark is triggered. 1993 and earlier trucks use the older Push-Start ignition where the Ignition Control Module (ICM) controls the dwell. No, it is not a simple swap to use the older gray Push-Start ICM on your truck.
I recall from your other thread a few details, but for the life cannot understand why the existing auto PCM (computer) is not working nicely with your manual swap. The only thing most folks end up doing, when retaining the auto PCM, is keep the MLPS wired in and set it to Neutral.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 137
Likes: 31
Yes, that is the weird part. I have had personal help with several guys, I even called the owner of 460 efi guys and we went through every possible reason my auto computer would not work.
I have a very in depth thread. A couple weeks ago with specifics, but long story short, the only way to make my auto computer work was if I physically removed the plug solenoid pack from the e4od transmission, and plugged it in. And I simply put it on my passenger floor board, and the truck ran pretty much perfect that way. But it is the strangest thing because I can have the mlps in any position. Idles perfect, but any throttle input results in the truck falling on its face. We have expressed our options. It seems like the solenoid completed a circuit. Which id imagine a jumper could also do. But I have no idea which pins to connect on the mlps end of my harness. It’s a mess
I have a very in depth thread. A couple weeks ago with specifics, but long story short, the only way to make my auto computer work was if I physically removed the plug solenoid pack from the e4od transmission, and plugged it in. And I simply put it on my passenger floor board, and the truck ran pretty much perfect that way. But it is the strangest thing because I can have the mlps in any position. Idles perfect, but any throttle input results in the truck falling on its face. We have expressed our options. It seems like the solenoid completed a circuit. Which id imagine a jumper could also do. But I have no idea which pins to connect on the mlps end of my harness. It’s a mess
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 904
Likes: 115
From: Laurel, MS
I feel like you should be able to eventually find what you're looking for, but if not you could always swap in a PimpX ECU. It definitely will cost more to go that route, and there is a bit of a learning curve to learn how to tune it, but I think it really unlocks the potential of your engine.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,785
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
Perhaps the 7.5L E4OD PCM is looking for TOT sensor feedback for other uses beyond transmission control. The computer uses the transmission oil temperature (TOT) feedback to adjust the shift schedule, EPC pressure and torque converter engagement. The 7.5L computer may use it for other functions? Just guessing.
Could try using a ~16K ohm resistor to simulate a ~2 VDC signal so the computer thinks the transmission is up to ~100* F. That resistor would go between Pins 7 & 8 on the solenoid pack connector (C1048). This is only a guess for why plugging in the solenoid pack appears to make the computer happy.
Ultimately sourcing a 1994 7.5L w/manual transmission PCM will solve your problem(s). Looks like a F4TF-AKA is the hot ticket.
Could try using a ~16K ohm resistor to simulate a ~2 VDC signal so the computer thinks the transmission is up to ~100* F. That resistor would go between Pins 7 & 8 on the solenoid pack connector (C1048). This is only a guess for why plugging in the solenoid pack appears to make the computer happy.
Ultimately sourcing a 1994 7.5L w/manual transmission PCM will solve your problem(s). Looks like a F4TF-AKA is the hot ticket.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,935
Likes: 34
From: Arcadia, Fla
On my 89 F250, I upgraded the wire harness from a 92 F150 as in future I was going to replace the AOD transmission with a E4OD. The 92 E4OD ECU did run the engine fine, but was not at full power. I finally found for my issue was the missing E4OD temp sensor and put a resistor of correct value in. I think the ECU was seeing the transmission was overheating and started limiting power..... Anyway shortly afterwards I found a manual transmission ECU(AOD tranny is non ECU controlled) and swapped it out. So no long term running occurred.
Worth a check to see if that is the case
Worth a check to see if that is the case
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,785
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
Perhaps we are on to something here.....
With no solenoid pack connected the TOT feedback would be zero.
With no solenoid pack connected the TOT feedback would be zero.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 137
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Awesome!! You guys are great. I have no idea what this technical stuff means but my dad is an electrician so I have the help I need. I will show him the thread and diagram and we can take a look. Thanks so much!!
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 137
Likes: 31
Question… Since I am slightly electronically challenged, what would happen if I were to try a 15k resistor? I assume it just wouldn’t get me quite to 2 volts? Most my local places have 15k but I can get some 16 ks online.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,785
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
15K ohm resistor should be fine. I suggested the 16K based on the chart that shows temperature/resistance/output voltage. No harm in using a 15K ohm, still well within the standard operating range.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,935
Likes: 34
From: Arcadia, Fla
With out the E4OD transmission hooked up and operational, you will get every code for it. I know it was a PITA trying to pull codes on my truck. All codes I got were about the missing E4OD before my code reader gave up and timed out LOL
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 137
Likes: 31
The problem was 100% computer. I have posted several threads about it it’s actually sort of strange.
Moving on, I picked up resistors from a local shop my plan is to wire it in this weekend. If that works I’m happy. If that doesn’t work, I found a computer on rock auto.
Part # is f4tf-aka. They only want 190 bucks and says it’s remanned. If that would work I would be all over it, but I have some concerns.
What makes it so much cheaper than every other source, is cardone reliable? And is that computer for sure the one I would need for my truck. I’d hate to throw money at it if I’m not sure it’ll work.
Moving on, I picked up resistors from a local shop my plan is to wire it in this weekend. If that works I’m happy. If that doesn’t work, I found a computer on rock auto.
Part # is f4tf-aka. They only want 190 bucks and says it’s remanned. If that would work I would be all over it, but I have some concerns.
What makes it so much cheaper than every other source, is cardone reliable? And is that computer for sure the one I would need for my truck. I’d hate to throw money at it if I’m not sure it’ll work.