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Hey All!
I live in a hilly/mountainous area [BC, Canada] and when I start from a dead stop on an incline, my '77 F250 [AT] will roll back when I release the brake. Is this normal? If not, how do I fix this? Is this tranny related?? Temp Fix: I drive it like a standard. Left foot on the brake, right foot on the gas. I add gas before releasing the brake and I jump into motion almost like a popped clutch ***this is an automatic***This is not ideal though.
Perfectly normal on a hill. If you increase idle speed, the torque converter will start to tighten up, but it'll do the same at stop lights on level roads and will then require more brake. Left foot on brake and right on gas as needed is fine on steep up grades if you don't want it to roll back a few inches. You only need to start stepping on the gas when your ready to go, not the whole time you're waiting for that light to change.
Welcome to Vintage life. Perfectly normal. Pre fuel injection era isn't all rainbows and unicorns. No intension to offend. We were still dragging ourselves out of the swamp.
Sounds normal to me to, yes these ol trucks do not have "hill assist", your left foot is the hill assist. Lol If you are doing the 2 foot hill hold and take off, and the truck is "jumping to motion"...I think you are doing it wrong. Should be a smooth transition, just like a clutch take off. So a little less gas and easy off on the brake.
When it the last time you serviced the trans? Fluid and filter change? Are all the vacuum lines connected to include the one going to the trans modulator? Do you know how to check it? What is the truck idling at RPM wise?
Thanks so much for the explanation, everyone. I am still figuring out the quirks of this ol' truck so I appreciate you letting me know this is perfectly normal behavior. That is an issue I certainly can live with- but it helps to know it is normal behavior- and not a flaw. I'll continue driving it like a fake manual and steer clear of busy hills when I can.
I appreciate the idle speed tip too, @tbear853 and @Westcoast Highboy . I'll likely just live with it now knowing it is performing normally
I would not adjust your driving route, I would practice the left foot brake, right foot gas trick, to help you get use to the ol truck. And then drive where ever you want to.
Yeah, I will. I actually have been doing that all along- but there are a few really steep grades here that get bumper-to-bumper that get a bit stressful.
I am not sure if you guys have many Teslas or other electric cars in your areas but they seem to ride up my bumper, much closer than most gas vehicles. At least its feeling like that
Yeah, I will. I actually have been doing that all along- but there are a few really steep grades here that get bumper-to-bumper that get a bit stressful.
I am not sure if you guys have many Teslas or other electric cars in your areas but they seem to ride up my bumper, much closer than most gas vehicles. At least its feeling like that
Well, they are "special", just ask one sometime. I see them over near Charlottesville, but they a far between here.
If a steep grade, I too use a left foot if something is close. If in the Mustang, 5spd, I'll even use the park brake, I do have a Hurst Line Lock for it, but it ain't working until I install it..
Sounds normal to me to, yes these ol trucks do not have "hill assist", your left foot is the hill assist. Lol If you are doing the 2 foot hill hold and take off, and the truck is "jumping to motion"...I think you are doing it wrong. Should be a smooth transition, just like a clutch take off. So a little less gas and easy off on the brake.
When it the last time you serviced the trans? Fluid and filter change? Are all the vacuum lines connected to include the one going to the trans modulator? Do you know how to check it? What is the truck idling at RPM wise?
Thanks for the input, much appreciated. I somehow missed this one when you originally posted it- but circled back to it today as I am trying to still solve some tranny delay issues over at this thread. To answer your questions: When it the last time you serviced the trans? Fluid and filter change? : The tranny hasn't been serviced at all since I got it 2000 miles ago (last Fall) and was the next thing on my To Do list. I was looking at doing it soon though (next week). Are all the vacuum lines connected to include the one going to the trans modulator? Do you know how to check it?: No- I do not know how to check this. It could be a factor. How would I check this?? I bet this could be part of the problem. I'll check for that as soon as I learn how to check it What is the truck idling at RPM-wise?: I don't have a Tach but its a bit high right now. Ideally, I'd like to lower it soon as long as it keep running smoothly.
Thanks again for your suggestions and tips, @77&79F250 ...and so sorry for the massive delay on my end.
The Transmission Modulator is the item in the yellow circle. See the rubber line connected to it, then it goes up and changes over to steel? That runs up and should change back to rubber and connect to the back of the intake manifold on a vacuum tree. Check the vacuum modulator and the rubber and steel line that goes to it. Check the line for kinks or other problems, make sure it hasn't come off, or any of the rubber is not dry rotted. If the line checks out, take the line off where it connects to the modulator. If trans fluid leaks out, its bad. If no fluid, it still could be bad.
They're simple to replace, disconnect the vacuum line, remove one bolt that holds the clamp in place and the modulator comes out. It has an o-ring seal. Modulators are identified by the color of the stripe. Pretty much the "go to" one is the black stripe. If they don't show that one in the catalog, go with the green stripe. Avoid the pink stripe. That one is a dual diaphragm version that has two vacuum line going to it. If by chance you have one of these, replace it with one of the other two and use the vacuum line that goes to direct manifold vacuum, cap the other line. When you pull the modulator out, be careful. There is a pin that goes in the modulator. Sometimes it comes out with the modulator, sometimes it stays in the tranny. If it comes out, don't lose it.
FYI the C-6 pan has NO drain plug. Get a BIG drip pan. Because when you drop the pan, it can make quite a mess. So once you get it to break loose, think putty knife, NOT big flat tip screw driver that bends the pan lip. And see if you can get the pan to angle/or drop on one side to drain some fluid. Some times putting longer bolts to hold up one side and let the other side lower to drain helps.
Originally Posted by Mr.Gibble
This is also very obvious when I am switching from Drive into Reverse. When I make the switch, the engine revs, the truck rolls (when on an incline) and it will jump into reverse after a few seconds of revving. It is not a smooth or instant switch.
THESE TRUCKS DO NOT HAVE "HILL ASSIST", YOU HAVE TO HOLD THE BRAKE ON A HILL. It is not smooth engagement because you are reving the engine above idle. And when the transmission finally starts working, you are way above idle, so it is going to NOT be smooth.
I hope the above mentioned items help, other wise it might be trans rebuild time.
Thanks so much for the concise breakdown, @77&79F250 . Very appreciated! Those images along with your clear description are so helpful, to say the very least.
I'll look over the areas you have outlined so well and see if this might be the cause of the delayed engagement.
Hills: I have been using the two-foot takeoff [2FTO ] and that works just fine. It just caught me off guard initially as I have been spoiled by newer technology and never knew what it was like to drive an older vehicle on a hill (I lived in the midwest i.e flat!) when I last drove a vehicle from the 70's. But rolling back slightly is expected now.
Thanks @77&79F250 - your information has been super helpful and appreciated!!!
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