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Hi All- the lower spring ( purple in photo 1 ) was broken off when I opened everything up. So I had nothing to go off of, other than the service manual and whatever I can find online. I have 2 questions :
1) The lower purple spring seems wonky. I had a hell of a time getting it connected and Im not sure if its installed correctly ?
2) The metal arms that come out of the brake cylinder are a bit crooked too and not straight across ( they are at a bit of an angle ) . I cleaned up the old ones and just pressed them into the new cylinder but it didnt appear as if they were to snap in / seat into a specific place. They just pushed into the rubber.
Do these issues resolved themself once driving or do they matter ? Just not sure how exact things need to be before putting on the drums and buttoning everything up again.
try and wiggle that piston back into the cylinder, i have done that with it looking like that , then it all should center and adjust itself , springs look good but that star adjuster has a left and right side , difference being threading towards front tightens gap , towards rear loosens gap , i believe they will be marked
Last edited by forda esploder; Jun 17, 2023 at 12:08 PM.
Reason: it feels rubbery but its going in
X2 on the piston. Wiggle and twist it into position.
Reference for spring location.
However, I do agree that the adjuster spring looks a little wonky but you may just need to adjust properly or clock the spring differently. Looks like it’s hanging up on the shoe.
What you see sticking out of the wheel cylinder and resting in the slot of the shoe is just a push link, it will rock and works just fine, it has to be some free to follow the slot / notch in the brake shoe. That part you see, the "push link" or "push rod" usually has a rounded end that self locates in a depression in the piston. The piston is inside the cylinder. That rubber on the cylinder is just a dust & dirt seal. The actual seal for the piston is a cup seal between the piston and inlet from brake line, deep inside the wheel cylinder.
Basically, the purple spring is correct. When you back up and stomp the brake, if there is excess room, the shoes are backed away from the anchor and that causes a pull of the cable and that pulls the lever up, the purple spring pulls it back down upon release ... will advance the star adjust wheel a tooth. I'd probably pull the purple spring outwards to let it get an easier angle on the hook at the shoe end.
Thanks very much. Here are 3 more photos of the purple spring. I have messed with it for 2 hours and I dont see any other way it can sit or be pulled back. It doesnt look right but again, not sure how else it could go in / attach ?
I don't know what the other side looks like, but I have done a lot of drum brakes, and about every one, that purple spring would first be inserted in that hole, but 180 degrees from how you have it, then the very end that looks almost like a hook would be on the far side of the hole, then the end with the long pigtail hooks to the lever that adjusts the star wheel, like you have it. Hard to explain, seems odd I know, but then the spring is retained and not in a bend by the shoe. Note the yellow I added.
Looks like the T- hold down is not on correctly. looks like it should be tapped upward to fit over the raised shoulder. of the stud.
next just looks like a lot of adjustment for a new set of shoes.
Have you tried to put the drum on?? picture seems like way too far out.. (Like a really old worn out shoes.)
Hard to tell by pictures..Always different when you can put your hands on.. Nice clean work there...
My .02 worth here.
Thanks. I flipped the spring 180 degrees and it looks straight and functional now. But is not what the manual shows and is not what the last photo of yours shows. Probably doesnt make a difference though ? Last, the adjusting lever faces down as opposed to straight as a result of flipping the spring 180 degrees. Again, not sure this matters ? Ive never done drum / shoes so forgive these questions, I just dont know how things are supposed to go and how much room for error there is.
What I meant by 180 degrees, was like if disconnected like it was at the lever end, then with hook still in hole in shoe, twist it 180 degrees so the spring was pulled along side of the shoe, then hooking it back on the long oval hole of the lever. Letting the spring lay like that may let the lever miss the star wheel teeth. If the spring is like I'm trying to describe, it'll pull outward too and since the lever is attached below, it'll tend to move the lever tip inwards some. '77 & '79 third picture in post 11 above looks right to me.
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