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While I can certainly appreciate restoration, especially where a great deal of talent and effort goes into understanding exactly what "original" means and then finding or fabricating whatever is required to bring the vehicle close to that state of being, I personally like to modify things to better represent my own needs and sensibilities. There are mods that enhance functionality and there are mods that enhance the aesthetics of a vehicle. I find the challenges involved in both of these to be very interesting and satisfying when achieved. So, "different strokes for different folks." It's all good if it makes you happier.
i want to ask your opinion; i made this "plug" to block off that inside tube , i drilled a hole through it and tapped about 3/4 inch ( so i can thread something on it and pull it out) i know you heard of people blocking that off but my plan ,hopefully, is allow pressure equalization and block it off, i attached pics
I had one of the wood rimmed steering wheels in a Chevrolet truck. Wood on front and back, but the chrome steel rim between, all riveted like that. You know how you get in, concentrate on putting the key in the ignition, grab the steering wheel with your left hand maybe. Was a really hot sun shining day, good race, I got in to drive home from Rockingham in NC. ... that narrow exposed chrome between the wood burnt the palm of my left hand. It even blistered some. I soaked a shop rag in cooler water, used it to cool the wheel some too. I drove home to Va. that night with that damp shop rag wrapped around my left hand. By time I got to Greensboro, I was shopping at a drug store for something to put on the blistered part. Steering wheel came off after that.
Originally Posted by forda esploder
i want to ask your opinion; i made this "plug" to block off that inside tube , i drilled a hole through it and tapped about 3/4 inch ( so i can thread something on it and pull it out) i know you heard of people blocking that off but my plan ,hopefully, is allow pressure equalization and block it off, i attached pics
I never saw anyone block it off totally. It would tend to force all heated coolant into the upper radiator hose but until the thermostat opens, my worry would be no coolant moving since the bypass is shut off in total, and then cavitation .... and in short ... I'd be curious as to how it works out.
You would have a water pump churning it's guts out, but no coolant moving until the thermostat opened up. If coolant can't move, will the thermostat even get enough hot coolant the engine's core to open before the heads or cylinders melt down? I know that eventually the thermostat would see hot coolant, but not because of fast flow bringing the heat ... just convection as the whole thing heats up?
I can see a loose fit allowing a little flow, but it'd be slow. If cavitation sets in, water pump is just churning space.
started it , idled maybe 3 minutes temp crept up even seemed like , 180 it leveved out , i let it idle maybe 5 more minutes , revving it to let the neighbors neighbors know , i just shut it down , no leaks so far , i will try best i can to monitor the head flow , maybe i can hear it , it actually acted like it supposed to because it was spitting it out the other day ( pre plug test)sovhere was my recent issue is is supposed to be see thru ? 😕, i cant believe i didn't notice this before i installed it
i wanted to temporarily plug my heat hose outlets and these worked so good somebody say caveatation? these same bars fit down that bypass hole the same clearance almost , i stuck my finger down it and its got a ?header ledge? but then elbows inward , my plug fits perfect and ( hopefully) allows any air to escape or circulation, i will be on it
Re the heater hose, are you trying to duplicate or improve the function of the heater control valve? On my FE engine I temporarily connected these two ports together. with a short length of heater hose using the stock hose connections. Later, when I start working on the heat/air system, I can re-route the plumbing with more heater hose. That circuit will include a heater control valve that regulates how much if any water reaches the heater core. The water pump will continue to have work to do which is probably a good thing.
started it , idled maybe 3 minutes temp crept up even seemed like , 180 it leveved out , i let it idle maybe 5 more minutes , revving it to let the neighbors neighbors know , i just shut it down , no leaks so far , i will try best i can to monitor the head flow , maybe i can hear it , it actually acted like it supposed to because it was spitting it out the other day ( pre plug test)sovhere was my recent issue is is supposed to be see thru ? 😕, i cant believe i didn't notice this before i installed it
Looks like a thermostat that totally failed in the wide open position, it's now only a restrictor at best. Not surprised, it's been really hot. Just guessing maybe when it finally got warm enough to open, the sudden rush of maybe super heated coolant was more than it could take? That cast in block bypass is needed to allow coolant to flow even before it warms up to opening temps. Hard to say without seeing it from below looking up, but it doesn't look correct here.
The "hat" looking lower is intended to restrict the bypass hole (that you plugged) as the thermostat opens, thus forcing coolant to go more for the upper radiator hose and the cooling effects of a radiator in the wind. 351Ws and 302s, etc use a kinked or restricted bypass hose.
Re the heater hose, are you trying to duplicate or improve the function of the heater control valve? On my FE engine I temporarily connected these two ports together. with a short length of heater hose using the stock hose connections. Later, when I start working on the heat/air system, I can re-route the plumbing with more heater hose. That circuit will include a heater control valve that regulates how much if any water reaches the heater core. The water pump will continue to have work to do which is probably a good thing.
i had my hoses running into each other just temporarily but it just looked too much like **** so i just popped these until i get to my heater core hookup , i may not use a heater core i was thinking
Looks like a thermostat that totally failed in the wide open position, it's now only a restrictor at best. Not surprised, it's been really hot. Just guessing maybe when it finally got warm enough to open, the sudden rush of maybe super heated coolant was more than it could take? That cast in block bypass is needed to allow coolant to flow even before it warms up to opening temps. Hard to say without seeing it from below looking up, but it doesn't look correct here.
The "hat" looking lower is intended to restrict the bypass hole (that you plugged) as the thermostat opens, thus forcing coolant to go more for the upper radiator hose and the cooling effects of a radiator in the wind. 351Ws and 302s, etc use a kinked or restricted bypass hose.
the other day my temp ran up to 210 and by time i got home it got to 230 and was spitting it out ; so i figured id flush radiator a few times and change thermostat, it sat a little while in between projects. okay now that plug is an idea i wanted to try but i dont want to completely block any ports so i drilled all the way through , tapped it to 1/4 20 thread (to install and pull it back out) its a real snug fit , i made it sunk down so allow the actual o.e.m. thermostat to drop down in there and leave a gap. it takes 3 1/2 minutes from start for my temp to register 100 then @180° thermostat opens , it drops down to 170 , idled it 10 minutes, did that twice now im ready test drive it
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