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A couple weeks ago, I went to start my f250, everything was normal until I turned the key to the start position and it was absolute silence. It was really odd because I always turn the key until my glow plug light goes off and everything was normal. All gauges, the radio, all the lights, until I turned the key. I tried a couple more times and on the 3rd time, it cranked and fired right up. I got home and after unloading, I tried it again and it worked perfectly. The next morning, I tried to start and it fired up perfectly again. I thought it might be a weird fluke so I kept driving it but only to places I was fine getting stuck at just in case, so I didn't drive it very much. A few starts later, it did it again but this time it wouldnt start even after multiple tries. I looked around on youtube and found a video that showed how to jump the solenoid up top by unhooking one of the plugs and putting it on the screw on the positive side of the battery. Here is the link since my description isnt ideal :
That worked. I took it home and shut it off. I went to start it again with the key to see what would happen and to my surprise it cranked and fired right up. I tested that a few more times out of curiosity and it cranked and fired every since time. In the video, they mentioned it was the ignition switch so I got a new one and installed it. I tested the truck a few times and everything went perfectly. A few starts after that though, it did it again. Turn the key with all lights working and everything seeming normal, then go to start and complete silence. What are my next steps/ what should I look at replacing to fix this issue?
Thank yall in advance for your help.
Is this truck an auto or manual transmission? If auto try shifting to neutral and try again. If still no love then you should probably check the connector on the range sensor. It's on the driver's side of the transmission, where the shift cable hooks up. The connector can get corroded and cause a no crank. You can also check the bracket at the end of the shift tube where the cable hooks to the column. The screws are known to loosen and cause this issue. Now if it's a manual I'd check the neutral safety switch should be on the clutch pedal assembly but I don't have a manual so not 100%.
In addition to the what the others have mentioned, it can also be a dirty ignition switch. It is that big white block bolted to the underside of the steering column. Take that off and sprtiz the inside generously with contact cleaner (DeOxit is my fav) and performance should spring right back. I forget who took his apart and really cleaned it out. Be careful if you go down that path. Rivets have to be drilled out and fiddly little copper bits are just waiting to leap out.
It is an automatic. I checked the range sensor and it looked pretty clean to me but included pictures in case I over looked something (they were taken with the flash on to improve lighting). The screws for the bracket are nice and snug. I haven't had a chance to mess with the shift lever since the truck is currently cranking and starting. I replaced the ignition switch yesterday morning (my old one looked pretty clean though) and had the no crank issue later that day. I was hoping that was my solution and was quite wrong when I ended up in a jam.
What are my next steps?
Since yours is a 2002 it shouldn’t have a starter relay on the passenger fender but check anyway. The next time you have a no crank, give the starter relay mounted to the starter itself a tap with a hammer.
It does not but I have used the cable up top to jump the starter and it fires right up so I wouldn't think it would be the starter. I know I didn't describe that very well but the video in my first post shows what I did. I have had to do that twice and it worked both times.
Is the shift lever loose or sloppy feeling? Those two little torx screws at the end of the shift tube getting loose is probably the #1 cause of a no crank on auto truck.
It does not but I have used the cable up top to jump the starter and it fires right up so I wouldn't think it would be the starter. I know I didn't describe that very well but the video in my first post shows what I did. I have had to do that twice and it worked both times.
Then it sounds like the signal wire to the starter relay is broken.
Is the shift lever loose or sloppy feeling? Those two little torx screws at the end of the shift tube getting loose is probably the #1 cause of a no crank on auto truck.
Shift lever feels good but I did check the screws and they were fine as well.
Then it sounds like the signal wire to the starter relay is broken.
Wouldn't the truck usually have no crank issues if that were the case or would it be an every now and then thing like I'm having? Also, where does the signal wire start, so I can trace it? I don't have any experience with that.
Wouldn't the truck usually have no crank issues if that were the case or would it be an every now and then thing like I'm having? Also, where does the signal wire start, so I can trace it? I don't have any experience with that.
There are various degrees of broken when it comes to wires. It is why intermittent faults are so annoying. I'll look up the wire diagram for your starting system.
If I remember correctly it goes from the ignition to the neutral safety switch, in your case a connector plugs into a jumper under the dash, then to the range selector and back up to the PCM. I recently had a similar situation and what helped me finally find the problem was a cheap signal tracer from Harbor Freight. It hooks to the circuit and sends a signal through the wire. Then a hand held wand gives an audible tone when in range. You follow along the wire until you loose the tone and there's the trouble spot. Easy as that.
