Hello, thanks for letting me join. I'm a OTR truck mechanic since 1994. I've owned 7.3s and 5.9 mechanical but never 6.0.
I have a 2005 F250 with 288k 6 spd truck. EGR delete, stock no tuner. I recently purchased this truck drove it long enough to get hot and it died. wouldn't start for about 10 minutes it started, drove home, removed fuel filter drain on frame rail it was completely clogged. (The previous owner let it set for approximately 5 months only starting occasionally. ) I tried cleaning it out and it was like rusty concrete. So I replaced the filter pump assembly, replaced fuel filter under the hood blew lines out. Removed the poly fuel tank, pressure washed it out, replaced the pick up screen that was broken in tank. Truck drove great until got hot an died again. FICM is 47.5 - 48.5v, ICP unplugged still no start until cold. Did some research built a tester and put shop air in it and used OTC IPR Controller. I could hear air coming out of passenger side valve cover oil fill, and no air noise from drivers side. So I assumed( I know that's a bad thing) it was stand pipes and dummy plugs. I replaced them (they were already the updated version) after installing still hearing air almost at hpop. The hpop/ipr was replaced in dec 2020 and turbo replaced in June 2022 according to receipts I have. From research through this forum and shop manual, It seems that hpop is USUALLY not a failure point. The IPR had a small amount of debris on the updated screen but nothing major. So should I replace hpop and oil rail nipple orings or am I missing something? Also is the remote oil cooler and coolant filter system worth it for preventing major failure. I have a scan gauge 2 on the truck, a Autel Ultra scan tool with full subscription. TIA

 

What coolant is in it?

Before buying an expensive remote oil cooler - watch the oil temps and coolant temps when driving. Vary the conditions. Get the data and post it. We can all look at the data and decide later if you have an issue with oil temps that are too high. Even if oil temps are too high, you can stick with a new OEM oil cooler and be fine, BUT you would need to ensure a CLEAN coolant system.

You can do the air test (checking for HPO leaks) with the valve covers off so you can listen at the oil rails and at the top of the injectors.

Your issue almost sounds like it is an IPR valve that will not shut off.

I would buy the fitting that replaces the IPR valve and do an air test wit it. That takes the IPR out of the loop. If you get ZERO leakage that way, then you know the IPR valve was the issue.

https://swagperformanceparts.com/swa...-tool-fitting/

I would assume that the HPOP discharge fitting (STC fitting) has been updated, but it is possible (not likely though) that you have a leak there.

One thing to be aware of is that low fuel pressure can cause internal damage to expensive injectors. It sounds like you probably were operating on low fuel pressure for a while. At some point, you may have an expensive for 8 injectors. It would be wise to install a fuel pressure sensor and gauge for continuous fuel pressure monitoring. Also, there is a regulator spring upgrade for our fuel pressure regulators (called the blue spring). You may of may not have it. I wouldn't worry about it now, but after you know what fuel pressure you are running, you may need it. 45 psi is the minimum specification, but I like 50 psi as a better minimum and typical is 60-75 psi.

 

It had a blue spring kit installed in 2020 sorry I didn't put that in hrere.
I ordered that fitting last week and it arrived Saturday
Oil temps are running within 7 - 9 degrees of coolant and never over 205 degrees on either usually 180 - 198 it had that universal green so I flushed system and put motorcraft gold color (priced like gold) I put Amsoil in it with motorcraft filter (non tall fitler cap) and Archoil in fuel

Do you have a specific fuel pressure gauge system you recommend?
Lastly with the receipts I have it got oil cooler in 2020, Garrett stock turbo with new lines and IPR in 2020 and Glow plugs with harness in 2017. Never had injectors that I can find.

 

Some people have been able to get by with the Gold coolant. That has been demonstrated. Thing is though, that it isn't very robust at all. It can cause problems (plug up an oil cooler) if it gets too hot (or the additives deplete) and it is supposed to be flushed every 45k miles. Not worth the risk. An EC-1 rated ELC coolant is what Navistar charged their engines with and it lasts 100k miles or more and will not plug up. You would be wise to switch it when you get the chance. With all the 6.0L issues - taking chances is clearly not the best decision.

Right now, your oil cooler sounds like it is doing well enough. Never know for sure until you describe the specific conditions in which the data was taken (speed, towing, etc), but the numbers are in range.

Hopefully it was an OEM oil cooler that was installed and not a cheap knock-off.

Let us know the results of the air test with the IPR fitting.

Glad you are monitoring things. That is important.

 

I'll post a few fuel pressure gauge options later.

EDIT:

https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/10-c...ressure-gauge/

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=226
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=504
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=271

https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/stor...?idproduct=130

 

Those ranges were normal in town driving some interstate, I haven't been able to drive it enough to tow anything so who knows what it will do with a load.
I will look at the ELC in 45k, and thanks for the links to pressure gauge
I'm in truck shop our air is set to 175psi do I need to turn that down while checking

 

That should be fine. No need to go any higher for sure.

 

Ok with ipr fitting in an shop air on it absolutely no air, so the ipr was bad?

 

If you had an air leak with it in and not with it removed, then I would say - yes, your IPR is not holding.

Invest in the tools, or guess!! Tools are cheaper!

 

Ok Im guessing I want a OEM motorcraft is there a particular place you have had better luck with ipr valves

 

Yes. The aftermarket ones are hit-and-miss.

 

With the IPR valve, or any OEM part, it best to get them from an actual Ford dealer. To many fakes out there.

If you need yhe part now you might have to just pay whatever your local dealer charges. If you have time there are several online dealers that have good prices.prices ve personally use Tasca, White Bear Lake Ford, Ford Pat's Gaint, and Jim Vreeland Ford. There are others, but those are the ones I have used.