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Ive noticed 3mm sized rust bubbles an inch and a half above the drip rail on the right side in the area of the windshield's right corner They are on the flat of the roof just before the crown edge starts. I also notice brown in the area the drip rail joins the roof in the caulk line, all the way around the entire drip rail.in that caulk line area Additionally I see a snail trail of brown running down the door post in the area where the door latches on the flat area where the weather strip is. the passenger door has more of this snail trail than the driver's door.
I live two miles from the Pacific Ocean and my truck is exposed to the "marine layer."
The truck was painted in 2018.w zero evidence of rust on the roof then. It had the original paint still that had gone to powder. The original headliner has never been removed it appears. That headliner and the interior itself are in beautiful condition
its my thought that I will have to remove that headliner to see the extent of this rust. Hopefully its mostly surface rust found under the headliner.
Probably a small piece steel will need to be welded or maybe with todays glues, glued in where the bubbles are. Is there anything besides a rust encapsulated primer and fresh paint I should do once the expected surface rust is ground off as much as possible?
I live on the Gulf, spend almost every weekend on Galveston Island, and I've repaired rust spots that did not return for 20 years until I sold the vehicle- without cutting or welding, so it is possible and feasible to fix. (Depending on the severity, of course.) I even did it without access to the professional materials we have today, like Eastwood and others.
The key question is what needs to be done to get down to good metal. If I use a grinder it is with a wire wheel, but I prefer a tough grade of sandpaper first usually.
I had rust on the top of my 69 F250 - which had the original paint. I sanded the areas down and was able to get to good metal without any holes going through. I removed my headliner and found more surface rust, but nothing major. I used POR 15 to dissolve the rust and used rust inhibitor on the spots before painting.
I had some small spots of pitting of the metal on top of the cab but filled those in with a metal filler. Eastwood sells some good stuff, and I've had buddies even use Permatex liquid metal filler to bring the surface back solid and smooth.
At the drip line I had a little snail trail, but found nothing major after sanding and chipping out the seam sealer at the edge of the rail. I dissolved what rust I couldn't sand away, coated it with primer, new seam sealer and top coat.
Let us know how it goes, and post some pics, cuz we love pics.
I agree with Texas 1969..........adding that there r several very good utube vids on this & one is spraying inside protection to the back-side of cab
I plan to do the same as U whenever I work it n with all my other pressing fixes..........
GOOD LUCK & HELP me with my current BRAKE DRUM POST on this forum ( RTT ) ha.....
thankx
I live on the Gulf, spend almost every weekend on Galveston Island, and I've repaired rust spots that did not return for 20 years until I sold the vehicle- without cutting or welding, so it is possible and feasible to fix. (Depending on the severity, of course.) I even did it without access to the professional materials we have today, like Eastwood and others.
The key question is what needs to be done to get down to good metal. If I use a grinder it is with a wire wheel, but I prefer a tough grade of sandpaper first usually.
I had rust on the top of my 69 F250 - which had the original paint. I sanded the areas down and was able to get to good metal without any holes going through. I removed my headliner and found more surface rust, but nothing major. I used POR 15 to dissolve the rust and used rust inhibitor on the spots before painting.
I had some small spots of pitting of the metal on top of the cab but filled those in with a metal filler. Eastwood sells some good stuff, and I've had buddies even use Permatex liquid metal filler to bring the surface back solid and smooth.
At the drip line I had a little snail trail, but found nothing major after sanding and chipping out the seam sealer at the edge of the rail. I dissolved what rust I couldn't sand away, coated it with primer, new seam sealer and top coat.
Let us know how it goes, and post some pics, cuz we love pics.
ill send pics soon \"Brutus " Rust snail trail on door pillars Rust snail trail continues to bottom of door pillar Drip rail rusting in this corner but otherwise good
I would seal the inside of the cab roof with POR 15, every nook and cranny, 2 coats. Condensation along the coast gets in everywhere. The inside of the A-pillars all the way to the floor can be helped with oil in a squirt bottle.
I think you’re going to be able to sand that down pretty easily and get back to good metal with no problem.
The snail trails will probably disappear with a light sanding also.
Here is my truck. Tons of rust, but all surface. Easily taken down to fresh metal with sandpaper. Good primer and top coat and you’ve reclaimed it.
I currently have the best rattle can paint job you can get. Ha! Once I do some body work I’ll get a good paint job, but until then I’ve stopped the rot.
I think you’re going to be able to sand that down pretty easily and get back to good metal with no problem.
The snail trails will probably disappear with a light sanding also.
Here is my truck. Tons of rust, but all surface. Easily taken down to fresh metal with sandpaper. Good primer and top coat and you’ve reclaimed it.
I currently have the best rattle can paint job you can get. Ha! Once I do some body work I’ll get a good paint job, but until then I’ve stopped the rot.
Encouraging for those of us with limited budgets for body and paint work.
thanks...your thoughts on a rust encapsulator primer..???
Originally Posted by Centennial F100
Encouraging for those of us with limited budgets for body and paint work.
Sir...thank you for the reply and the complement. . Would you suggest a "rust encapsulated" primer? I presume a top coat would work with that type of primer.