I have a 97 F250HD 7.3 PS which I bought new in Jan of 1997. Has 180,000 miles on it and I have decided to restore the truck as close as reasonable to its original glory (unfortunately the Centurion option does not appear easily reproducible) probably my last restoration job, getting older and crawling on the ground isn't what it used to be. Had just a few issues with the truck over the years and all have been corrected at the time they were discovered, generally with FOMOCO parts when available. Recently rebuilt the valley including a replacement fuel pump and both tanks have been replaced due to rot and some leakage. The remaining issue with engine is a nagging oil leak which looks to be where the dipstick enters the pan. I stopped by a reputable diesel shop here locally to get an idea what he would charge to repair said leak. He told me he would not repair just the leak but would reseal the engine, this included the oil pan resealing, valve cover gaskets, rear main, fuel lines/seals etc. his experience he says is once one starts they all go. And just do everything all at once. The price tag of $3600 did not seem unreasonable for all the work being suggested. I usually do the work myself but have considered using a shop for some of the less fun jobs recently, I guess would like some input from the more knowledgeable on this site. Over the many years my experience is it is not unusual for me to introduce more problems issues by replacing things that show no sign of deterioration or excessive wear just to ward off a possible failure in the future. Thoughts from everyone would be appreciated, just repair the obvious dipstick oil pan leak or consider replace every oil and fuel seal in the engine. I have no intentions of selling the truck, but possibly showing it a some of the car/truck cruise-ins and shows in the area.

Thanks
Bob

 

after all i went through last year, YES DO THEM ALL

get new design rail plugs, get a new oil pump, balencer, SD dual tensioner mod with belt, water pump too while in there?

Bellowed up pipes is a good time now also and get manifold fly cut

rebuild turbo too or get a balanced S300 setup https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/kc-ba...diy-turbo-kit/

 

I did everyone of my seals in frame aside from oil pan.

 

Front cover?

 

this one too?

 

Oil pickup gasket. Forgot to order one when I did my stuff. Waited days and paid shipping to get one sent from RR. Also ordered a front seal because I didnt know the melling came with a new one.

 

Not that but oil cooler, valve covers, springs, oil dipstick deal, turbocharger base, probably others I forget. LPOP too. HPOP res. Hmmm. Plenums.

Now just weeps from pan seal. OP just needs oil dipstick addressed. No reason for engine out.

At nearly 200k I would do new injectors, head job, springs, and pushrods. ARPs if you want. Especially if it is coming out.

 

With all due respect to the previous posters, I have a dissenting opinion. About the dipstick flange/oil pan leak, I fixed mine myself and it costs about 50 cents. First I cleaned off all the oil and oil residue on the outside of the pan, using carb cleaner or some similar solvent. Then I carefully loosened the big nut so I could clean behind it. I made sure I didn't loosen it ll the way. Then I cleaned the pan underneath the nut with the same solvent. Once everything was clean and dry I sprayed the area under the nut with copper coat head gasket sealer, giving it several coats, allowing it to set between coats. Then I tightened the nut. That was 60,000 miles ago and the side of the pan is still completely oil free and dry.

About paying a shop $3600 to fix all those leaks that haven't started yet, my truck has 240,000 on it and other than that dipstick flange, it hasn't leaked oil.. I have never been able to pay a shop to do anything and have them to it correctly. With all the various fixes that he or they will be doing, my luck would be that some of the work wouldn't be right and I'd be taking it back forever and end up regretting spending the money. If it ain't broke, don't fix it and that $3600 could be better used for other purposes. Speaking only for myself, a hobby truck is only worth it if you enjoy doing your own work.

 

I think the oil pan dip stick flange repair depends on the condition of the flange. My flange was stripped mostly and bent into a hotdog bun shape from being over tightened . I also think that is the condition of a large proportion of leaking 7.3 dip stick flanges. What I'm saying is, don't think you are a failure or have done something wrong if you cant solve your dip stick to pan leak for .50c.

 

That explains a lot. I knew a guy who spent $3,000 just to fix that dipstick leak and I thought he was an idiot. Stripped threads and distorted flanges explains why it isn't always a simple fix.

 

3K is quite a bit to spend on that leak when the Strictly Diesel golden nugget is $299 and pretty much solves the problem. There is a recent thread floating around with a Fleabay golden nugget clone for $60 or something. I tried at first fixing mine with a new Motorcraft oring and nut but the flange in the oil pan was too distorted to make a seal and the threads were too stripped out to tighten the nut. The PO attempted to create a RTV mountain around the flange but it leaked miserably. I guess 3k could be spent to "properly" fix the leak by yanking the engine, dropping the pan and the whole deal.

 

Yes, that's how he spent $3,000. Paid a shop to pull the motor and the whole deal. He was very happy about it too.

 

Sounds like his pockets are full of money. If mine were full of money I would be happy too.

 

'Gold Nugget' user here. Would purchase again.

 

As I have said before. When I yanked my engine I had every opportunity to TIG weld the weldable type in or replace with the OEM type. Decided to keep rocking the nugget. OEM will just fail again and the weldable would have cost me another $100 on top of the nuggets $299 price tag. It did feel pretty good to remove the inner piece of the flange from the pan. Just because of, reasons.