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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

does replacing all seals make sense

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Old May 19, 2023 | 08:25 PM
  #16  
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Hey, I forgot about that thing in there.
 
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Old May 20, 2023 | 07:19 AM
  #17  
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Appreciate all the input, leaning toward going just repair the dipstick leak, no work has ever been done in this area, only question I have is what is worst case scenario when I attempt to and possibly replace the dipstick adapter, is there a piece on the inside of pan that could fall into the pan and necessitate removal of the pan? Pan removal appears to be a rather involved task. I prefer doing the work myself (this way I know exactly what has and has not been done) but still use the truck on a regular basis for hauling my other classics around to shows, etc
 

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Old May 20, 2023 | 07:25 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by boybowser
Appreciate all the input, leaning toward going just repair the dipstick leak, no work has ever been done in this area, only question I have is what is worst case scenario when I attempt to and possibly replace the dipstick adapter, is there a piece on the inside of pan that could fall into the pan and necessitate removal of the pan? Pan removal appears to be a rather involved task. I prefer doing the work myself (this way I know exactly what has and has not been done) but still use the truck on a regular basis for hauling my other classics around to shows, etc
With the Strictly Diesel "golden nugget" repair you purposely drop the inner part of the flange into the pan never to be seen again (until you drop the pan). Dropping the pan requires yanking the engine. Some have done it without pulling the engine but I'm highly skeptical on the quality of the seal that can be made using Ford sealant.
 
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Old May 20, 2023 | 07:29 AM
  #19  
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So dropping the inner part into the pan does not cause problems down the road, also would you stick for the $50 clones on ebay or go forward with the $300 stricly diesel original.
 
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Old May 20, 2023 | 07:37 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by boybowser
So dropping the inner part into the pan does not cause problems down the road, also would you stick for the $50 clones on ebay or go forward with the $300 stricly diesel original.
The pan is so deep and there is a baffle in there that the risk of issues is very low. I have no idea on the clones but several people here have recently bought them, so hopefully they will chime in. I have the OG Strictly Diesel golden nugget. No leaks.
 
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Old May 20, 2023 | 09:25 AM
  #21  
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Strictly repair part user here..would deff recommend. 3600 is out of the question, sorry not ever happening. If the rest of the boat isn't leaking then why fix it..
 
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Old May 22, 2023 | 08:09 AM
  #22  
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i went with the clone, double orings should hold up well
 
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Old May 22, 2023 | 08:59 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 96SD;[url=tel:20854973
20854973[/url]]3K is quite a bit to spend on that leak when the Strictly Diesel golden nugget is $299 and pretty much solves the problem. There is a recent thread floating around with a Fleabay golden nugget clone for $60 or something. I tried at first fixing mine with a new Motorcraft oring and nut but the flange in the oil pan was too distorted to make a seal and the threads were too stripped out to tighten the nut. The PO attempted to create a RTV mountain around the flange but it leaked miserably. I guess 3k could be spent to "properly" fix the leak by yanking the engine, dropping the pan and the whole deal.
We replaced my brothers oil pan in his 96 4x4 7.3 not by removing the engine completely, but just by raising it a few inches.
 
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Old May 22, 2023 | 10:08 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by KingDeleted
We replaced my brothers oil pan in his 96 4x4 7.3 not by removing the engine completely, but just by raising it a few inches.
Thats not how my luck works. My skill level is low when it comes to doing auto work. So I need all the help I can get for things to turn out right.
 
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