Looking for some insight... Just replaced all 4 ball joints, both hub assemblies, and the drag link end at the pitman arm. The other end of the drag link and both tie rod ends were still good. Took the truck and had it aligned at a tire kingdom. Something still isn’t right. If you correct left, the truck continues to track left. Same if you correct right. Anything over 65-70 is super sketchy. There isn’t any bump steer. When breaking there isn’t ANY pull. Same for accelerating, no pull either way. There isn’t hardly any return to center either. It tries a little…. Very little.

I’m questioning if I have too much preload on the knuckle? I followed some directions I found in a thread on this site… torqued the bottom joint to 30 lbs. then torqued the top to 69lbs + clear the pin hole. Then torqued the lower to 150 lbs to finish. Greased everything good. Put about 250-300 miles on her today. Still like driving down a balance beam…

I set up some angle iron on the wheels, leveled them and ran 2 tapes. To measure the toe. It’s a dead nuts 1/8” - 3/16” toe in.

i don’t believe it to be the steering box, because the truck steered just fine until the hub when out, then noticed ball joints had a little play…

what’s the next move? What’s the proper method of torquing ball joints?

 

Here is the print out from the alignment shop.

 

That's the proper way to torque them. I did my truck that way and actually just out a set of Spicer ball joint in a 2012 truck yesterday and it had a paper in the box to do it same way. Said lower to 40. Upper to 70 then tighten to cotter pin hole. Then lower to 150. So basically same as you did.

It does sound like memory steer though from ball joint. What ball joints did you put in it?

 

I used Oreilys premium house brand, Precision. Typically I’d use spicer, but didn’t have the time to wait on them. Can’t find them locally, I looked and asked around… Moogs are what I replaced, they were toast. Everything feels great except the steering issue… should I tear it all back apart, and reinstall everything? Would that even make a difference?

this thing drove better with two worn out hubs and ball joints flopping around. Oh, and the front driver side U bolts were loose… this thing tracked like and arrow… I don’t get it.

I can steer the wheels reasonably easy, by grabbing the tire, with the front end off the ground. Idk if that makes any difference. Everything seems to cycle smoothly…

 

Oy! Precision components from Irish Auto Parts are ****e. I personally like XRF ball joints. Replied to your other thread also.

 

i agree that they probably aren’t the best. But time and money dictated this one. They should be good for at least a year. Just buying time. Spicer was my first choice, but I couldn’t wait for them. I had 2 days before I needed to be on the road again. Already had the hubs off as well. They really didnt seem to be terrible quality. Machining looked fine, joints were tight, they have a nice boot on them. Lifetime warranty… they have to be better than the master pros.

 

Did you remove the upper BJ sleeve to make sure it can slide down? if it dont slide down, then the ball pops out of it since it was never set in the hole


set lower to 40
tap sleeve down and tighten upper BJ
tight lower to 150

 

yes sir, took everything out and cleaned it up with degreaser and a wire brush. Even put anti-seize on the sleeve, it’s all the way down. I set the lower to 30 lbs, torqued top to 69lbs + a little to clear the pin hole. Then torqued the bottom to 150…

 

I marked everything to ensure I put it back correctly as well…

then took it to alignment shop.