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1) Ok when the alarm sounds is it the factory truck horns blasting or something else.
2) So you saying if you turn your headlight switch to the left until it will not go anymore the dome light will not come on. Your headlight switch should have a noticeable click when turned all the way to left to turn on interior lights and cargo light.
3) the under hood light is on a mercury switch.
4) Slow down lets work on 1 thing at a time. I do not have a 95 wiring diagram so hopefully someone will share a headlight switch wiring diagram so we can do some testing to see if you need new switch. I know these switches go bad from heat from current but would like you to do some checking and learning before purchasing a switch.
For your under hood light I would remove bulb and check for corrosion on the bulb contacts and the socket. The contacts may be a little loose and have to be closed a little bit. Then also check the contacts on the wire connector.
When the alarm goes off, it's the horn blaring...and the only way that I have found to shut it off is to disconnect the battery.
The headlight switch doesn't click at all. When I turn it either direction, nothing happens....the dash doesn't dim at all or go brighter. It stays on bright. Leads me to think the headlight switch is bad?
I replaced all bulbs...under the hood, in my third brake light...dome light, as I had to buy a used one to replace the one that was oem due to it having gone bad. Third brake light harness I had to disconnect because the cargo lights are staying on. The door panel lights/under hood light do not come on all the time. Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't.
I was able to find another screw for my dome light. I will put that on. See if those stay on as well.
All I see under my dash is a wire mess...wires with fuses with clips...I need a freaking electrical genius to fix this.
Somebody is saying most of the wiring under the dash is from a remote start....did these trucks come from factory with an optional remote starting system? If so, is that something Ford has to fix?
All the non factory wiring under the dash leads me to think it was alarm system with remote start or a stand alone remote start. I do not think Ford offered remote start on the 95 f150.
You really need to get a factory wiring diagram for your truck. Take 1 wire at a time under the dash and follow it from 1 end to the other to see what it is connected to. I am referring to the non factory wires. I have not a clue to why so many fuses under the dash. You will have to follow them out to see where they going. The shop that got your truck running may have added them for some unknown reason to power things.
With your truck having the flashing security light in dash I say the truck has the factory anti theft system. That will more than likely be a dealer trip. If the security flashing light was not flashing before your truck was stolen, your repair shop done a poor job. You may very well need to take your inner door panel off to gain access to the latch to check the switches on the theft system that is attached to the lock .
Yes, the theft light was blinking before it was stolen. I didn't have any issues with it not blinking before it was stolen. Also didn't have issues with the alarm going off either.
Somebody is saying most of the wiring under the dash is from a remote start....did these trucks come from factory with an optional remote starting system? If so, is that something Ford has to fix?
yes they did come with remote, but not buggered up wiring like that... that mess is aftermarket installed, probably from a former owner by the looks of the connectors used.
If you look at the diagram, you'll see 2 major color coded wires.
Light green with a yellow stripe and black with a light blue stripe. They power all your curtsey/cargo/interior
Those wires are going to be "hot" almost ALL the time. Anyplace you see one of those blue clips on one of those wires, it's feeding power to some Non-Ford item.
I'd strongly recommend popping those little clips off the factory wires & wrapping a small piece of electrical tape around the "wound".
Also maybe some body can talk you through removing your headlight switch which is probably cooked.
In one of your pics above is red & black wires going through the firewall to the engine compartment. Really would like to know where that's going.
There is no way of us knowing what can be cut out and eliminated until you can tell us where it goes. You been asked twice now about the wires going thru firewall: the red & red and black.
Next:
All of this mess can go as soon as you find out what it connects to. That is some connectors for aftermarket alarm or other Eq.
We just need to be sure it is not spliced into anything. A lot of people will cut the factory wire in half and add you may very well need to repair the factory wire back to make things right.
Next:
This relay was added in for something lights,alarm siren ,etc etc only person know will be who installed it.
The red wire that is separate from everything is connected inside that mess...and goes to the starter solenoid.
There is a red wire that is not connected to anything underneath, the red/black wire is grounded to the frame inside the cab and then goes to the horn. Both of these wires go to the horn...red and red/black. But aren't connected to anything else.
If you look at the diagram, you'll see 2 major color coded wires.
Light green with a yellow stripe and black with a light blue stripe. They power all your curtsey/cargo/interior
Those wires are going to be "hot" almost ALL the time. Anyplace you see one of those blue clips on one of those wires, it's feeding power to some Non-Ford item.
I'd strongly recommend popping those little clips off the factory wires & wrapping a small piece of electrical tape around the "wound".
Also maybe some body can talk you through removing your headlight switch which is probably cooked.
In one of your pics above is red & black wires going through the firewall to the engine compartment. Really would like to know where that's going.
I found a video on YT that shows how to remove the headlight switch. I'm fairly certain it's toast...
As for the rest...I will have to take the electrical tape off, and start tracing the rest of it. Will take me time to do so, I am afraid to do this because I don't know what the shop did or didn't do under there.
Well, turns out...NONE of that junk goes to ANYTHING...I pulled some of it off, thinking maybe the fuses led to something. NOT ONE BIT. So, out it all came. I ran out of time today to remove the blue clips and tape the wounds. But, I will do it.
There is a connector box in the middle of under my dash...I have a friend who has a 1996 F250...his connects to his trailer brakes box. Mine is gone, along with the wiring to that connector box.
I'm gonna have to have an auto electrician work on it...I can't figure out why the door panel/under hood/cargo lights go on and off intermittently. I don't have the time or patience to undo the entire wiring harness to that one light green/yellow wire everyone keeps talking about.
and will have them see if they can figure out the alarm issue as well. I just don't have the patience and time for it.
Replaced the headlight switch. All of my light issues have been resolved....
As for the alarm issue, I am working on it. After I replaced the headlight switch, I tried the driver door lock switch, locked it from the inside. Went outside and unlocked the driver door with my key and it didn't go off...so, not sure...
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