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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Freaking high idle

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Old May 3, 2023 | 08:38 AM
  #1  
Lt96's Avatar
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Freaking high idle

1996 f150 4x4 4.9 efi
idles 200 -300 rpm high than normal at operating temp
No vacuum leaks test every way possible(smoke,brake clean,carb clean,propane, stethoscope)
New iac valve
New tps
New vacuum lines
New every fing gasket
10° advanced timing
spotless throttle body
Engine warms up to 90 Celsius (canada) so 194 f
At idle @operating temp I can disconnect iac valve with no change to idle at all
pedal linkage does not have downward pressure at idle
no codes
New injectors

So my next though o why is a worn out throttle body bud it didn't seem to bad, a bit of light at the bottom left of one of the butterfly valves, can any one post a pic of what a good one should look like so i can compare visually. Also butterfly valves do have the holes in them which i have read some people block off to get normal idle ? Last thing i have not checked is the maf sensor may pull and clean thoughts?
 
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Old May 3, 2023 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Lt96
1996 f150 4x4 4.9 efi
idles 200 -300 rpm high than normal at operating temp

At idle @operating temp I can disconnect iac valve with no change to idle at all
It idles 200-300 rpm higher than before when? It that when you threw all those parts at it? Did you ever check for fault codes?

Well…that’s not right. The idle should come down when you disconnect the IAC.
 
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Old May 3, 2023 | 09:58 AM
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My vote is vacuum leak. They're sneaky.
 
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Old May 3, 2023 | 10:23 AM
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Idle has been high since I bought the truck, and yes I have check codes none present checked with quality scanner not a cheap one. As I said I have checked for vacuum leaks every which way you can none present
 
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Old May 3, 2023 | 12:26 PM
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Is it possible the previous owner simply cranked up the idle stop screw?
 
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Old May 3, 2023 | 12:33 PM
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Yeah I wondered about the idle screw as well, so I marked its location and screwed out one full revolution with no effect on idle so I returned it to original location.
 
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Old May 3, 2023 | 02:01 PM
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Did you disconnect the IAC and then back out the screw? If you mess up the screw setting, theres no consequence. Just Reset it to "barely touching" plus one or two turns. Theres a real Ford procedure, but adjusting it like a carburetor works.
 
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Old May 3, 2023 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Prototypemech
Did you disconnect the IAC and then back out the screw? If you mess up the screw setting, theres no consequence. Just Reset it to "barely touching" plus one or two turns. Theres a real Ford procedure, but adjusting it like a carburetor works.
Hi to be honest when I when trying to see if the screw would affect thing no I didn't disconnect the iac first. Should i try with the iac disconnected?
 
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Old May 3, 2023 | 02:15 PM
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In order to adjust the set screw the engine needs to be warmed up and the IAC needs to be disconnected. If you can get it to something around 700 rpm shut it down re-connect the IAC and restart it and see how it behaves. If you are happy then run KOER testing and see if the computer is happy with its ability to control the idle rpm's. It will report a code if it doesn't like what you did.

If you can't get the idle to come down then you have a vacuum leak that you will need to address before you can reset the set screw.

You can eliminate most of your accessory vacuum systems for testing by pulling them off the vacuum tree and capping the ports. The only ones you have to have are the FPR and MAP.

Hand actuated vacuum pumps are the best way to check vacuum circuits and components.
 
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Old May 3, 2023 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Lt96
Hi to be honest when I when trying to see if the screw would affect thing no I didn't disconnect the iac first. Should i try with the iac disconnected?
Follow R&Rford's recommendation. Including testing each vacuum circuit with a hand vacuum pump if the Idle screw adjustment doesnt work.
 
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Old May 3, 2023 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Prototypemech
Including testing each vacuum circuit with a hand vacuum pump if the Idle screw adjustment doesnt work.
Throttle stop screw. It's only designed purpose was to prevent the throttlebody blades from closing too far then sticking in the bore. As time progressed it was used to overcome other issues such as worn blades/bore, modified engines and sludge build up.
 
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Old May 3, 2023 | 04:31 PM
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Just thoughts for you.

Have you checked the PCV system or the brake booster setup? Both could cause substantial vacuum leaks.
 
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Old May 4, 2023 | 07:08 AM
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Replace the intake manifold gaskets
007
 
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Old May 4, 2023 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Lt96
Hi to be honest when I when trying to see if the screw would affect thing no I didn't disconnect the iac first. Should i try with the iac disconnected?
With the IAC connected, the computer was making adjustments while you were turning the throttle stop screw.
 
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Old May 4, 2023 | 10:23 AM
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So tinkered a but last night, got ut up to temp disconnected the iac and turned out the idle adjustment screw no change. Pulled and capped/plugged lines off of the vacuum tree one at a time, the pcv line when capped did drop the idle to 750 so I will pick up new pcv valve today. Question should the pcv allow air flow to the intake, basically having a bit of a hard time wrapping my brain around how it's supposed to function. Since it's under vacuum from the intake would it not always allow air to go from valve cover area to the intake since the poppet under vacuum will unseat?
 
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