Contact Pittsburgh Power in Pittsburgh, PA... They clean the Ford DPFs. Maybe they could help you out and replace yours when they take it apart.

https://pittsburghpower.com/

 

Yes I run commercial, with DOT numbers on the door. The dust has settled, the cost was 5700.00, parts labor a couple of sensors and there is a 500.oo core charge on the new exhaust, so you must turn in the old exhaust part that I foolishly thought that I Owned. Go figure! Never heard of a core charge on a new part. My only advice to those of us that are stuck with Ford crap exhaust is to charge more per mile for the truck or quickly trade for a gas model. Most likely the cost of the more gas needed to haul the same load in 100k miles may cost more! It’s a bit like shoveling something against the tide. HAPPY MOTORING PEOPLE

 

Hi guys I’m new here,

Hey Jon did you take a look at the old DPF once it was removed to see if it was cracked. I’ve got the same code P2002 and had it for 20k miles now. The reason I asked is upon not having the 5k to fix it if that’s what it was, I started looking into my whole situation and found an array of things along the way. 10% fuel in oil, oil built up in the intake tube through the turbo and pushing some out on the valley through the metal coupler on the turbski outlet. My fuel report had notes to check fuel injectors and due to everyone’s recommendations I focused on the DPF. Digging into it further I’m finding that I’ve got over fueling (confirmed with a snap test) and visually seeing black smoke. Oil grew 1/8 on stick in 50 miles. Ran a fuel system cleaner through it by liqui moly including the purge and i thought it was good because the black puff went away and cylinder balancing rates (using forescan) looked closer. I had also doubled up on the Amsoil cleaner. Initially cylinders 3,6,& 7 seamed to be further out from the rest by -.3mg to -.9mg before treatment, after treatment just c3 (cylinder 3) was far out by -.9 to -1.0mg. Once I filled up c3 went to -1.8mg. I got my puff of black smoke back. I dug further and found the crank position sensor, min fuel mass adaptation, and the high pressure side can get out of whack and have to be reset. I was able to reset the crank sensor via forescan and it seemed to bring the injector c3 back in check. I was playing around with some other test tonight and a passive regen kicked in and it was much cleaner smelling afterwards. I will see tomorrow when driving. I’ve continued to clear the CEL and it’s not consistent as to when it comes on and seems to be consistent with coming on sooner as the oil rises or when the fuel was dumping more at one point.

I realize you moved on and got a DPF, I asked to assist all the diesel owners myself included, in resolving these issues sooner and not having them ultimately by understanding the system better. After listening to lots of diesel podcast it appears it is simple to avoid this stuff by understanding the systems better ie diesel engines, the electronics that run them, and the DOC,SCR,& DPF. The electronics will tear up the engines since they are simple triggers in a complex situation. Anything less than a perfect running fuel systems basically causes excess soot buildup getting more fuel in oil through the physics of the imperfections and then regenning more often, oil rises and causes even more regenning and turbo overspool. The ccv on your model also backs up pressure and even the newer ones seem to collect oil still in the intake tract. EBP sensors cause us poor fuel economy as well as inefficient use of the vgt turbo.

I was about to say quits on the diesel engine as well until I started tying some of this together, the ecu/fuel injector connection being the last leg. I’m baffled by my extra fuel and no code other than a P2002. The fuel system info has all come about in the past week. I came to the conclusion to dig further based on guys giving out pieces of info involving watching the truck data through forescan and nothing at all looked off except the cyclinder balancing pids. I say that while still being confused about interpreting that data since today my experience with the truck seemed to indicate less fuel being put into the cylinder/s and the exhaust smelling much different in regen and when reving it and getting a whiff of the exhaust smell. As far as cylinder balancing i didn’t notice so much of a change that I would think the issue was resolved, however before there was black smoke and smell of diesel in exhaust and now it’s a tiny hard to see bit of smoke and it’s almost odorless.

Anything you guys could offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all your post.

 

WOW WAffle you have done some amazing troubleshooting. No I did not see the old DPF . I have hopes that the 6.7 motor is ok now. I did change the motor oil upon arriving back home and I will take note of its condition as you have mentioned. Thanks, good luck.

 

Sucks to hear you had to shell out that kind of cash so soon in the life of the truck. I'm no expert but just read a lot. I threw Pittsburgh Power out there as they seem to be on the ball when it comes to modern emissions controlled diesel big trucks. They also clean and recondition the Ford DPF unit. I've seen kits online where the DPF section is cut out and separated from the whole unit to be cleaned, then plates are welded onto the unit and the DPF substrate is bolted back onto the whole unit. I'll assume that's what they do. I'm probably going to call them if and when I need a new DPF.

While I have commercial plates, because of the weight and GVWR of my truck, I daily drive the truck only. I've been using Pittsburgh Power's Max Mileage FBC every tank full, which is re-branded Better Diesel, to help keep the DPF clean and healthy for a long life. The Max Mileage is supposed to lower the combustion temp of soot and allow the engine to produce less NOx which would mean less DEF usage. Truck's got just about 106k miles. I also use K100D+ every fill up as well. I'm not pushing this onto you just bringing up what I use for FYI only.

If you needed a new DPF unit, I'm wondering if the filter substrate was cracked. Here's an article from them about that subject.

https://pittsburghpower.com/blogs/ne...e-dpf-crumbles

I also run a Banks Power iDash which lets me know when the truck goes into active regen mode. I have the factory Soot Load % PID enabled which when it goes to "FULL," I know she's going into regen mode. Since you have a 17, you can disable the Auto-regen mode with FORscan to then enable it back to when it's convenient for you to do an active regen. My gen truck, 11 to 16s, don't have that feature but sure which they did. What's nice to know is that if I get to my destination while in regen, I know that's she's in regen, so placing the trans in PARK and letting the truck idle shuts off the active regen (in 30 sec to 1 minute) and allows the excess fuel to be pushed out of the combustion chambers so it doesn't leak past the rings into the oil if the truck is shut off during an active regen -- those injectors would still be under pressure, or so I have read.

I monitor regens to get them done when they occur, which isn't always at the most convenient times. I live in the hills south of Buffalo, NY so my truck gets fairly hot climbing those hills. High 500s and into the 600s EGTs. I feel that keeps my emissions functioning and healthy on a daily driven truck that doesn't work hard pulling weight which is a good thing for the DPF. I complete my regens on an expressway that heads south and climbs in altitude to get EGT4 hot at 1100 to 1200 degrees. But what is also important is driving the truck after the regen is completed to slowly cool off the DPF to avoid it cracking when real hot if the truck is shut down.

On days when I know the truck is going to go into regen, when the dash is at 95%, I'll drive the expressway until she does. I've also done it when I had time and started driving the expressway when the dash said 90%. I usually put on anywhere from 75 miles to 100 miles on those days. I'm just trying to keep the emissions clean and working as the truck is now paid off and she's a long term vehicle for me.

Damn dude, awesome troubleshooting... great job. Probably way better than the average Ford tech. What year truck do you have?

As to the pressure from the CCV, I run a Mishimoto oil catch can on mine so no pressure is built up, but that usually was seen with the engines with the serviceable CCV units with filters. . I have the sealed unit on my engine.

I run K100D+ which has a cleaner in it as well as also things. I've been running it since the truck was new.

Good luck with your truck...

 

Fuel dillution as to it relates to excessive fuel and oil into the exhaust system:
Avoid idleing for long periods for no reason.
Increase your oil changes per the severe duty schedule.
Get a monitor such as the Idash or other ones to monitor the active regen status. Avoid shutting it down while active regen. Avoid shutting it down when EGT's 1/1 and 1/4 are hot.
Finally if possible depending upon your model, shut off the active regen and or use forscan to add that option thereby allowing you to monitor the soot % and waiting until it is 100% full to regen.

then plan the regen event for when you have a good stretch of open hwy to get it, get it cooled down before you shut it down.

 

Good information people. I was not letting the exhaust cool down for very long after regen. In Maine we mostly drive between 35 and 55 on our mostly secondary roads. Seldom on the Highway so regens are often cut short.My work often consists of hauling a trailer and tractor or excavator (5to6tons) for short trips of 5 to 20 miles. Whenever possible I get the truck on the Highway and give it to her , but I get to my destination in an hour. Has anyone used Rislone Diesel fuel additive for DPF cleaning. I always use CENPECO Diesel Max for the fuel injection system, but I will check into the K100 additive that you speak of, many thanks to all.

 

what are your thoughts on how extra fuel is being added without the computer having any issues with it. There are lots of indicators that the truck is running rich. To what degree idk. Not once person so far including dord techs can speak about about how the fuel system works, works in relation to the after treatment system. There are literally hundreds of scenarios where the DPF/after treatment can have issues. I’ve got a big circle going. Fuel in oil is least of concern at this point, I know how it’s there which is from idle and excess fuel being added from pcm/injector. The question is why the pcm feels the need to **** fuel in the truck and not set a dtc. 1/8 rise on a dipstick is insane for a 50-60 mile trip. Also as mentioned the crank pos sensor seems to have an affect on the cycle deer balancing. Based on the entire picture my issue has been from extra fueling and not by means of idle. My truck had slow decline in fuel economy to a point where I’m at 16-18mpg best and used to be 24-26mpg.

c3 seems to be doing its own thing in relationship to the other balancing numbers, there’s a black soot film that’s been collecting since I got the ruck new. Ide say somewhere in the 15k to 50k range I noticed the color change and figure it was part of it. I’m not talking about a drastic color difference, merely residual amounts one would expect to see over time in an exhaust tip. Seeing all the 6.7s exhaust tips mostly have a hazy look to inside of tip where I’ve had an ever so thin carbon/soot layer forming over time. This leads me to believe it’s been happening a while and I just happen to have some events going on (added charge tubes, banks cai, and oil seperator when I noticed it. Oil test came into play around 50k miles.

 

Before passive regen

Running some sort of obd2 model 6 test



I’ve seen misfires on almost all cylinders

OCR as it starts to reach full temp

OCR done. Temps were like this last 7-10 minutes of OCR.

Once I realized oil was “growing” and kept levels down my distance between regens went from 130 miles to the normal 500-600. It keeps going up also. I’ve just messed up the count due to running the OCR watching data.

 

I think my educated guess is injectors.

If they leak or fire incorrectly it to me is plausible to add fuel into the crankcase.

Duty cycle can be an issue too. Short trips, not getting the truck hot before shut down, excessive city traffic, stop and go can be part of this.

 

these are things I avoid. They have happened yes, it’s not a regular occurrence though. I’m pretty big on getting any machinery to it’s operating conditions before use. My concern is the connection with the injectors vs the computer. I don’t know all the variables the piezo injectors have and if that’s something that can act up. What I’m seeing watching live data looks more like choice changes for unknown reasons vs something flaking out. I just don’t know enough about it to determine it. I’m on the rd working all the time so it’s imperative to find the root cause amd avoid downtime.

 

A good assumption would be is that the filter substrate cracked because the truck was shut down when the filter was hot...

About K100, I remember talking to my contact at the company and he said it has something in it for the DPF. It's a multi-function additive. I won't run without it.

Here's what I was talking about for the DPF service... it's a kit where they can remove the particulate filter to service it.

 

I've never liked the engineering that Ford has, either cars or trucks. Many things they have don't favor the mechanic or owner of a Ford. Example is quick connect, there is nothing quick about disconnect only connect which is good for the manufacturer only having to push things together. Ford has the most recalls of any car company.
I had a constant rule for myself which is not buying a Ford. Well like a chump I got a great deal on a 2015 Ford F250 6.7 diesel . It runs great but always having the same problem, the check engine light always comes on and always emissions related, P2002 along with other codes . I've been to 3 different diesel shops they do diagnosis replace sensors sometimes a regen and check engine light goes off and about 200 miles later the light comes on again .I have spent around $4000 doing this and always back to the same problem. None of them suggested changing the dpf . The shop in Texas said everyone in his area does a deletes and the problem goes away, they charge around $1800 ,they are a Ford shop.
I found a dpf shop in Phoenix, if they do all the work to clean the dpf its around $2500.or $1000 if you pull the dpf .
I wish I never bought a Ford, I had a Dodge with a Cummings and a Chevrolet with a duramax both were great trucks. Ford builds crap.

 

I hardly doubt there's no issues with Dodge/Ram/Cummins (no G in Cummins) and GM/Duramax trucks... sounds like you may have bought someone else's problem maybe. How many miles when you bought it? Was the problem there when you bought it?

Looking into this, a P2002 is a DPF or particulate filter fault. The fault states that P2002 – Diesel Particulate Filter Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1

From that link above, Here are a few of the most common causes.

• Driving too slow keeps soot from burning properly in the DPF.
• Bad diesel fuel, with too much sulfur that clogs the DPF
• Bad DPF differential pressure sensor
• Damaged hoses between DPF pressure sensor and filter
• Damaged DPF
• Air leak before the DPF
• Dirty air cleaner
• Defective ECU
• Malfunctioning aftermarket parts

You can also do a search here in the 6.7 section for the P2002 code. There are threads here on it.

Do you have any black soot on your tailpipes? How many miles? How do you use the truck? Do regens complete?

I have 120k miles on my truck and I monitor the regens. The truck gets hot daily, regen intervals go out from 400 to about 500 miles and I just daily drive my truck. But my truck gets fully hot when driven, climbs hills and sometimes I take it for a drive when the dash is at 90% or 95% (soot load % because when it goes to FULL or 100%, it will go active), to get it to regen... it's a PITA but I love my truck and deal with it... I monitor these things on my Banks iDash... so I can have the longest life possible out of the DPF before I have to deal with it...

Matter of fact, just had a regen at 496 miles out and the truck was still at 95% when she went active... I also use fuel additives but YMMV... many different opinions on that.

Hopefully this helps and good luck.

 

You probably are not on this enough to see my reply, but I am in Stonington with a 2019 6.7 and a P2002. My code reader showed a low particulate removal which
may well be the cracked filter media known for these years. Have you seen the engine check ICON and a P2002 ? What I am trying to find out is if this means that
I have increased back pressure. I now have only 17,200 miles and my exhaust is just a medium brown with a very light amount of dark residue. Trying to learn more
before jumping at a $5000 replacement bill. Am seeing Darlings in Bangor with my service inquiry. This is going to be my last Ford as this is nuts.