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460 Engine seized from sitting. Been sitting about 7 years. I left airfilter housing off carb. Drained oil no water came out so i guess thats good. When hit starter i see fan and crank pulley shake but no movement. Tried breaker bad but wont budge.
Whats the best stuff to put down cylinders? Diesel or kerosene?
I think they say ATF and Acetone 50/50 mix poured in the plug holes.
Let sit a week or more topping up as needed.
Dont use the starter to crank it could break a piston top off.. Use the breaker bar to try and turn it.
Rock it forward & back a little and let it sit more & topping off.
Might get lucky and it will break free.
Good luck
Dave ----
ATF and acetone is the combination for the homemade penetrating oil formula. I tried it and it does work very well, almost as good as Kroil.
But I could not keep it in my oil squirt can. When I first mixed it up it was great, but after sitting in the shop, the acetone evaporated out of the ATF and I was just left with ATF which didn't work very well. If you have some mix it and try it in your engine. You may want to lightly put the sparkplugs back in place to keep the acetone from evaporating.
I've mentioned Fluid-Film as a possible rust penetrating and lubricating agent. It is used to free seized parts. I think it would be a good choice for trying in engine cylinders.
Projectfarm on youtube did a test. Fluid film was the worst didnt penetrate rust bolts at all. Stuff is good for protection barrier but doesnt remove or.penetrate
Projectfarm on youtube did a test. Fluid film was the worst didnt penetrate rust bolts at all. Stuff is good for protection barrier but doesnt remove or.penetrate
I searched for that test, on the rusty lug bolts? The test I watched on that didn't include Fluid-Film. Project farm did test Fluid-Film as an undercoating but he used the wrong product and applied it incorrectly. That drove up the price per application and the ability to coat a thin film with the spray can was not achieved.
Yeah try diesel, ATF, WD 40...what ever is on the shelf.
I'm cheap and proud of it, but this situation may call for a better plan of attack.
Let's say you try (insert name of cheap product) first and it doesn't work. Still, it soaks partially into the various gaps, where things aren't actually stuck.
Well, that didn't work, so you try (insert name of medium priced product). It can't reach the stuck areas because the path is blocked by the previous application of (insert name of cheap product).
Ha! Time for (insert name of expensive product). Hey, this crap doesn't work! I'm leaving a nasty review for them peddling this garbage. That will show them. But it never got a chance. The path to reach the stickage was blocked by residual (insert name of cheap product) and (insert name of medium priced product).
This is one of those situations where it's best to start with the spendy stuff. Give the product a fighting chance to work.
"Let's say you try (insert name of cheap product) first and it doesn't work. Still, it soaks partially into the various gaps, where things aren't actually stuck."
Too late. One side i got pb blaster other side straight atf. I thought about what youre saying afterwards. I guess i can suck it out with syringe or flood it out with gasloline that will evaporate after few days or flood it out with good stuff. Been raining like crazy and this truck is in the dirt. .maybe ill get lucky when i try it in next sunny day.
Thanks, I guess he's done several penetrant videos. When he used the Fluid-Film in the spray can he didn't show whether he shook it up or not. The spray can has a special blend and the cans have a steel mixing ball inside so you have to shake it up good everytime you use it as some separation takes place. If you don't shake it you get the heavy bottom end only and that won't be as good as a penetrant. The advantage I see with Fluid-Film is that once a good application is made it doesn't dry out. It might not penetrate as fast as a more liquid product like WD or PB but those will evaporate more and may need multiple applications. Fluid-Film will continue to migrate and penetrate rust to bare metal. The advantage is you don't need a lot of product so you don't need to worry about removing it. The disadvantage is it takes a little longer to penetrate.
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