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I used seafoam in the cylinders (sit for a day), marvels oil (sit for a day) then put a wrench on the crank pull bolt. Gently rock counter and clockwise. Do this often to gauge if progress is occurring.
my goal was to make sure one of the piston rigs dosen't brake. After it frees up fill those cylinders up with oil and go thru some revolutions. Change oil and filter be prepared to change it again at 500 miles.
has yet to fail me. Last time i used this method was last fall on a old tractor with the same condition.
Hope it helps.
"Let's say you try (insert name of cheap product) first and it doesn't work. Still, it soaks partially into the various gaps, where things aren't actually stuck."
Too late. One side i got pb blaster other side straight atf. I thought about what youre saying afterwards. I guess i can suck it out with syringe or flood it out with gasloline that will evaporate after few days or flood it out with good stuff. Been raining like crazy and this truck is in the dirt. .maybe ill get lucky when i try it in next sunny day.
PB Blaster was a good choice, It should do something.
Been a few days .it not budging with breaker bar. ill put pb on drivers side cylinders. I try with starter after soaking few days. Wonder if water went down carb and rusted lifters.
Been a few days .it not budging with breaker bar. ill put pb on drivers side cylinders. I try with starter after soaking few days. Wonder if water went down carb and rusted lifters.
Be patient. Be firm but gentle as was said above you don't want to break a ring. I wouldn't use the starter motor till completely free.
Been a few days .it not budging with breaker bar. ill put pb on drivers side cylinders. I try with starter after soaking few days. Wonder if water went down carb and rusted lifters.
These trucks are famous for the seal on the back part of the hood going bad, and water leaks in on top of the aircleaner and around the aircleaner hold down bolt. Was it locked up before you took the aircleaner off or you do not really know the history?
There was no air cleaner on it. Just 2 barrel holley carb . yes it ran fine but accelerstor pump was leaking.planned to pull carb but forgot all about it had a kid and forgot about it. Now its in my way. Truck is actually a f700 with a 370. .to get to plug holes on passenger side i have crawl under truck between wheel well. Drivers side i have to get on top of engjne and im an old dude and fat. Its not fun. Im going rip the damn fenders off with a cut off saw if sucker doesnt turn over soon.
Here a pic of enhine valley. If water got in through carb looks like there would be water in pan but i took pan drain plug out and only oil.came out??
Being a big truck it's going to be harder to work on. Just to be sure, if you can shine a flashlight up in the starter area with the bottom cover off, I would verify the starter gear is not jambed in the flywheel, it does happen. I would also take all the belts off to make sure nothing up front is locked up.
If water went down the carb it would not make it to the lifter valley.
See the holes on either side on the heads? They are the intake ports on the heads.
If water went down the carb it would fill the intake manifold then if any intake valve was open water would fill the cyl.
The only way you would get water down into the oil pan from the carb is it would need to leak by the piston rings.
Yes this can happen. This is what blow by is but instead of water it is air from compression.
I just sold a car that the motor was like yours and I know water did not go down the carb as it was covered with plastic bag just for that reason as it had a hood scoop. I believe mine was from sitting for 6 years, any oil that was on the cly walls was washed off trying to start it to load for the move south (and not getting it to run). Then with intake & exh valves open moisture got in and rusted the rings to the walls.
Did I tell you this car sat outside on my car trailer most of the time after the move where if it was in the garage it would of had less moisture.
Dont rush trying to get the motor to turn over it takes time.
Dave ----
Thanks Dave. It wont budge i put put pb in all cylinder. Problem im thinking is it will only get to bottom of piston not the top except maybe for pistons at bottom of stroke. In have no way to turn it back onku forward not that its moving in either direction. The crank snout in front i read is 1-3/4" and i dont see anywhere that has a crank socket in that size. Maybe i can find a sheave and weld a socket to it .or pull fan and radiator and get a big pipe wrench somewhere to fit around the crank pulley. I have stuck chevy ,350 i tried that on and it just crushed the pulley.
on another note i got 2 more f700 with cummins ,12v that have been sitting as long. I hope theyre not locked too.
Maybe i hqve to get a inspection camera see what it looks like in there. Submerge it in PB blaster prob not good
You found out do not grab the pulley with a pipe wrench. Also do not take the pulley off and grab the damper with the pipe wrench. That damper has a center hub, a rubber ring, and then a outer metal ring that has the timing marks on it. As they get old they are famous for the rubber cracking and the outer ring slipping. For sure it would be damaged if you grabbed it with a pipe wrench.
What you could possibly try is take the lower pulley off, get a long piece of metal and drill two holes in it to match the smaller bolts that held the pulley in place. Put some bolts through the metal into the center hub of the balancer and then you could probably move it back and forth, though if you get too rough with it you would probably break those bolts off. But they should be able to do something.
But one looks like this .the rust is at top towards lifter galley where The PB cant get to. Any ideas.hopefull its just must and not what it looks like. Must be just from condensation because no water is in there. Piston Piston Piston Valve
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ill put pb on drivers side cylinders. I try with starter after soaking few days. Wonder if water went down carb and rusted lifters.
