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I have done this many times. I believe as the housings get old the metal deteriorates and snaps easily.
Aftermarket parts are readily available in the states.
The kit was pretty complete, plus I added some installation paste to them, so they should be tight now. However, I broke the thermostat housing…
I think the thermostat slipped down a smidge, and got wedged between the housing and the intake, so when I tightened the bottom bolt it snapped the ear off of it… cr@p!
Yep. I've done it too. Now I usually glue the thermostat in so it can't get away. Super glue works.speaking of super glue, of you decide to use the end gaskets on the intake you can super glue them to the block so they don't slip
You may want to check the distributor before you put it in.
Pull a suction on the diaphragm vacuum advance to make sure it does not leak and moves the plate the points are mounted on.
Also hold the gear in one hand and rotate the rotor with the other to make sure the mechanical advance is working. You should be able to rotate it 5 or 15 degrees and it should spring back on its own. If not remove the rotor and apply some 10W oil inside the shaft underneath it and work it until it does.
Ok, more woe’s… I tried to go for a little test drive today after work. It still sounds way better than before, however, when I put it in gear and try to ease my way into driving it sputters and dies. If I really give it a lot of gas it’ll get moving, but kind of stutters along.
I checked the timing, it’s at 10 degrees initial, and aroud 35 total ( hard to see exactly ).
Does it start to sputter immediately or after you have your foot on the gas for a while?
If it is delayed I would check you gas pressure and volume. Maybe a leaking gas line prior to the pump sucking in air, Once fuel in bowl drops your mixture leans out.
Check fuel filter.
Does the carburetor need rebuilding? If so, use piano wire to clean all passages. Rebuilt my last carb twice because I did not do this.
Bad gas?
What is your vacuum reading at idle and is it jumping around?
If immediately, as soon as you step on it (assuming the bowl had a chance to fill) I would check-
Spark plugs- did you crack an insulator? Happened to me.
Points- gap correct?
Is there too much slop in the upper bearing on the distributor shaft causing point gap to change?
Condenser- both old and new are known to cause problems. Our car ran a lot better when we put in an electronic conversion kit.
Put a timing light on it and watch the pointer while idling. Is the timing jumping around? Another reason to convert to electronic.
Is there a grounding strap between the breaker (points) plate and the distributor housing?
Damaged rotor or cap? Look for carbon tracking marks in the cap which would indicate arcing.
Have you checked the vacuum and mechanical advance in the distributor?
Good wire connections to the coil?
Did you damage a plug wire or boot?
Is your firing order correct?
Did it ever run good? Was the poor condition of your engine hiding this problem?
Thank you for that list of suggestions, it has taken me a few days to go through them and here’s what I found. The truck will sit idling for ever without trouble. The stumbling is immediately apparent, as soon as I put it in gear and try to lift the clutch while carefully pressing the gas pedal, it dies, or close to it. If it doesn’t die it starts “bunny hopping” until I press the clutch and try to get going again, this time with a stupid amount of throttle… I get it to roll along at “idle”, but if I try and ease on the throttle it sputteres and would die unless, again, a stupid amount of throttle…
”If immediately, as soon as you step on it (assuming the bowl had a chance to fill) I would check- Spark plugs- did you crack an insulator? Happened to me.”
It starts immediately. I checked the spark plugs, no cracks - they are however covered in soot…
“Points- gap correct?”
points gap verified to be 0.4mm/0.016in
“Is there too much slop in the upper bearing on the distributor shaft causing point gap to change?”
I can’t feel any unusual amount of slop in the bearings, nothing noticeable anyway.
“Condenser- both old and new are known to cause problems. Our car ran a lot better when we put in an electronic conversion kit.”
I am planning to convert it, just don’t have the extra cash now…
“Put a timing light on it and watch the pointer while idling. Is the timing jumping around? Another reason to convert to electronic.”
timing light says 10 degrees before tdc at idle, very steady
“Is there a grounding strap between the breaker (points) plate and the distributor housing?”
yes
“Damaged rotor or cap? Look for carbon tracking marks in the cap which would indicate arcing.”
no, it looks fine and clean
“Have you checked the vacuum and mechanical advance in the distributor?”
You have been busy.
Is the soot on the plugs "black" in color like it is running to rich? The problem you are having is likely connected to this. Could be carburetor or spark related.
Does the choke open completely when it is warm?
Does this carburetor have a metal line which runs down to the exhaust manifold and uses vacuum to pull heat into the choke housing to open the choke? If someone converted this to an electric choke you may need to plug the vacuum line if they did not.
When you step on the accelerator when the engine is not running, does the accelerator pump squirt gas into the venturi area above the throttle plates?
When the engine is fully warmed up and idling at low speed, do you see gas dripping out of the 2 venturi (round rings) in the carburetor? Dripping gas may indicate a carburetor rebuild is needed.
If you turn the 2 idle mixture screw in when it is idling, does the engine die out as it should? These should be rotated out until the vacuum / idle speed peaks.
Was this carburetor recently rebuilt and was the power valve replaced when it was?
What is the manifold vacuum when it is running warm at idle and is the vacuum steady?
While idling, I would spray wd40 or carb cleaner around the base of the carburetor to see if you have a vacuum leak somewhere. If the idle increases you have one. How worn is the throttle shaft bushing on the drivers side? Excess wear can create a vacuum leak.
Put a vacuum gauge on the hose going to the distributor and rev the engine a couple of times. Does the vacuum go up when you rev the engine? The temperature controlled vacuum valves on this hose are known to go bad.
Has the coil been replaced recently and is it in the proper orientation? I have seen some coils sold for horizontal and others for vertical mounting. Also make sure the shell is grounded good to the bracket which is also grounded good to the block.
I am running out of suggestions but if I think of more I will let you know. Good luck.
yeah, I am trying to get this piece of junk out on the road feeling like it's somewhat reliable (or as reliable as a 50+ year old vehicle can be...) - I´ll go through the suggestions again below :-)
Is the soot on the plugs "black" in color like it is running to rich? The problem you are having is likely connected to this. Could be carburetor or spark related.
Yes, the soot is black and "dry" like it is running rich. I suppose it could have something to do with mostly idling in the driveway the last few days, but yes it seems like it's a bit rich.
Does the choke open completely when it is warm?
Does this carburetor have a metal line which runs down to the exhaust manifold and uses vacuum to pull heat into the choke housing to open the choke? If someone converted this to an electric choke you may need to plug the vacuum line if they did not.
The choke is completely disabled and plugged. It used to have a line from the manifold, but it has all been removed and plugged. The choke "flaps" are locked open.
When you step on the accelerator when the engine is not running, does the accelerator pump squirt gas into the venturi area above the throttle plates?
Yes, the carburetor was completely rebuilt a couple of months ago, new acc.pump.
When the engine is fully warmed up and idling at low speed, do you see gas dripping out of the 2 venturi (round rings) in the carburetor? Dripping gas may indicate a carburetor rebuild is needed.
No dripping gas
If you turn the 2 idle mixture screw in when it is idling, does the engine die out as it should? These should be rotated out until the vacuum / idle speed peaks.
Ahm... I turned them all the way in, and waitet 5 minutes, and it just kept idling... so that´s probably not good...
Was this carburetor recently rebuilt and was the power valve replaced when it was?
yes, and yes
What is the manifold vacuum when it is running warm at idle and is the vacuum steady?
I don´t have a vacuum gauge yet...
While idling, I would spray wd40 or carb cleaner around the base of the carburetor to see if you have a vacuum leak somewhere. If the idle increases you have one. How worn is the throttle shaft bushing on the drivers side? Excess wear can create a vacuum leak.
No leaks detected...
Put a vacuum gauge on the hose going to the distributor and rev the engine a couple of times. Does the vacuum go up when you rev the engine? The temperature controlled vacuum valves on this hose are known to go bad.
Again, no vacuum gauge... I suppose I should get one ;-)
Has the coil been replaced recently and is it in the proper orientation? I have seen some coils sold for horizontal and others for vertical mounting. Also make sure the shell is grounded good to the bracket which is also grounded good to the block.
It hasn't been replaced, but it is oriented as it has been before, and it was working... The bracket is grounded good.
I am running out of suggestions but if I think of more I will let you know. Good luck
Thank you, I really appreciate you taking the time! I will get back after checking the vakuum!
One hour test drive tonight, and no issues… I adjusted the timing slightly (12 degrees before tdc), widened the points gap very slightly, and lowered the idling a bit… now she runs 🤷♂️
Setting the points properly is tricky especially if you are new to it, mostly because of the spring tension. I usually use a matchbook cover for a feeler gauge because it is the correct thickness and the drag is more tactile. Then confirm with a dwell meter after it's running. But you said you are converting to electronic ignition so no more worries there. I think opening the points did the trick although advancing the timing a tad always makes them happier. With the cam in mine my initial timing is near 20° and happy.
If screwing in the idle screw had some effect on reducing the idle speed, you may be OK as is. Someone may have damaged the tips of the screws or put in the wrong screws.
If it had no effect on the idle, you may be running to rich and should look into it.
I would buy a decent oil pressure, volt and temperature gauge so you can monitor the engine before you run into a problem. I would not count on 50 year old gauges and idiot lights.
Ok, so it's been a few weeks now, and she runs great. Better and better in fact. I do have some dirt in the gas tank, it's the original one, so I am running three fuel filters between tank and carb, but some stuff is still getting through. I have just resigned to the fact that for the foreseeable future I will have to clean the carb out every couple of weeks.
It was our "national day" on tuesday the 6th of June, and it is also the national vintage car day, so what better way to celebrate than to drive around town for a few hours :-)
I've had a few issues, but now it starts up great, it idles and accelerates smooth, BUT - at speed, say I'm cruising at 40-50 mph, it seems to have a slight "twitch"... like it's missing a little bit, but I don't think that it is... As soon as I give it some gas, it smooths right out and pulls even and strong.
I'm thinking it's a carb-adjustment issue or something, but I don't want to mess anything up
Any thoughts on what I should look at, or any other info y'all need?
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