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Yeah, I didn’t really go through the engine much, just some gaskets, ignition parts, cleaning and paint. “It was running fine” according to the good old boy I bought it from, but then again, 25 years of sitting outside in Missouri may have caused some issues even if that were true 😂. I am actually amazed that it runs as good as it does. No weird noises, mostly just weak… naturally, if it is only running properly on 4-5 cylinders, it should feel weak…
Update: together with a friend I put air pressure in the cylinders, and we could then hear air both out the tailpipe and through the carburetor. There is also quite a bit of soot up in the carburetor, which there shouldn’t be I don’t think. So, I’m thinking valves that don’t seal properly. I bought a complete gasket set to pull the heads off and so tonight I will start that little project. Hopefully I can repair what I have…
If the intake has a gasket in the front and rear, they often leak after replacement. To overcome this many people use a thick gasket maker Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum in place of the gasket. This is a widely accepted process.
You may also want to put a very thin coat of a gasket sealer on both sides of the intake gasket around the coolant ports between the head and the intake if there are any. Permatex makes a special grade for coolant systems- Permatex 22071 Water Pump and Thermostat RTV Silicone Gasket. This is not done very often so you may want to see if others recommend it and the type of sealant to use.
The OEM cast iron intake may weigh close to 100 pounds so prepare yourself for it. May help to cut the heads off a 4 bolts and screw one in each corner so you guide the intake straight down into position. Less chance of damaging a gasket.
Use the above gasket maker on the valve cover gasket in the area where the head joins the intake. There is often a step because they do not match up.
Are you familiar with the process for lapping the valves?
You may want to lap the burnt ones lightly to see if the seats are distorted and should be refaced while you wait for your valves to arrive.
The blue print on the heads is typical of premium quality Felpro non-stick head gaskets.
If you do not have one I would install a quality temperature gauge and monitor the engine temperature. This many burned valves is a sign of overheating.
Did you measure the stroke to confirm you do not have a 390?
Are you familiar with the process for lapping the valves?
You may want to lap the burnt ones lightly to see if the seats are distorted and should be refaced while you wait for your valves to arrive.
The blue print on the heads is typical of premium quality Felpro non-stick head gaskets.
If you do not have one I would install a quality temperature gauge and monitor the engine temperature. This many burned valves is a sign of overheating.
Did you measure the stroke to confirm you do not have a 390?
Hey!
yeah, I've done this before. Not on a V8, but I'm familiar with the process.
I have checked the seats, they all look good. I have gone through and discarded the exhaust valves, and also cleaned and checked all the intake valves. I also am replacing the valve stem seals on all of the valves.
I'm using high quality gaskets to replace the old ones.
I only have the std temp gauge. This damage is more than 25 years old, that's how long the truck has been sitting. It was used daily from 1967 until 1998, in Missouri , hauling heavy loads of plumbing tools and materials. Who knows how abused it was... no it's going to live a cushy, soft and pampered live in Sweden...
I have no reason to believe that it is anything other than a 360, but just for giggles, what measurement should I have?
Looks good.
A lot of people do not use exhaust manifold gaskets but I typically do on an older engine. Not sure if they would have come with your kit.
I have rebuilt many Ford Windsor (small block) and FE engines in my younger years.
The kit was pretty complete, plus I added some installation paste to them, so they should be tight now. However, I broke the thermostat housing…
I think the thermostat slipped down a smidge, and got wedged between the housing and the intake, so when I tightened the bottom bolt it snapped the ear off of it… cr@p!
I have done this many times. I believe as the housings get old the metal deteriorates and snaps easily.
Aftermarket parts are readily available in the states.
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