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So, now I find the copper high current stud on my starter is mangled. PO had a clever spacer arrangement so that the nut used just the top few threads. Can be fixed by mortals? This may well be the original 6V starter running in the 12V converted truck. Don't know how to know that.
Do I do surgery? Or start shopping for a 12V replacement?
This a guy quite literally abuses a starter to get it apart and back together again. That gave me a good idea of what's inside. Curiously my "fly out" mechanism on the starter gear is also stuck "engaged" like his. It's not in the photo above. But while cleaning I spun it and it locked with the gear fully in towards the starter. Hum Bug.
Anyway, starting to think a rebuilt starter is the best path forward. Also this looks just like video starter, so maybe 12V already.
Personally, if you have a shop that does remans on starters and alternators, I'd just drop it off there and have them go through it. Buying one from a parts store, even NAPA, would be a crap shoot compared to someone local and competent that knows what they're doing, and puts loving care into their work. My 2c.
Personally, if you have a shop that does remans on starters and alternators, I'd just drop it off there and have them go through it. Buying one from a parts store, even NAPA, would be a crap shoot compared to someone local and competent that knows what they're doing, and puts loving care into their work. My 2c.
I completely agree. And it supports local experts that we value.
I just replaced the stud in my 6 volt starter, I've done it before, it's not that hard. But, I also agree with taking it to a pro to have it checked and rebuilt. I have a local shop that would rebuild the starter for around $50, well worth it. I did mine because the starter looked to be in good condition. I ordered two studs, one just to have an extra, and had them delivered to a close by NAPA. I'm also cheap.
The chain stores managed to close down the 1 repair shop close to me. I don't recommend ever turning in your old part. Just pay the core and keep your original while looking for a rebuilder. Sometimes the 6 volt starters on 12V can hit too hard and mess up the ring gear or bendix. They sure spin them over good though. Some shops can convert to 12V.
The chain stores managed to close down the 1 repair shop close to me. I don't recommend ever turning in your old part. Just pay the core and keep your original while looking for a rebuilder. Sometimes the 6 volt starters on 12V can hit too hard and mess up the ring gear or bendix. They sure spin them over good though. Some shops can convert to 12V.
That's great advice !
Also I don't know if you are in an area where there are many farm equipment repair shops but they could also change that stud for you, like they have done on older tractors I am sure.
I dropped it off this AM at the repair/rebuild shop in town, Starters & Alternators of NM. They are going to put in a stud and do a rebuild keeping the same drive gear assembly, which looks pretty good.
I totally agree about keeping the old parts and not turning in cores when buying remanufactured hard to find items. On my old Mercedes the clutch disc is becoming a rarity. Mainly because they didn't import many stick shifts after about 1970. The parts places "insisted" on getting the old disc back when I bought a fresh one. I just kept it and let them have the core charge. Now I can send it to US clutch specialty house for new friction surfaces if I need to.
you can drill a small hole in the stud and tap it for a bolt then get a new stud and file it down and then tap it for that same thread pitch. once you have done that cut the old stud down and thread in the new piece then solder around where the two peices touch and put a oversize nut over this. lastly put a nut on top of this and you have a new mounting surface to put the cable on to.
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