When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
once all 4 bolts are busted/removed. is it best to jack up one corner at a time, one side at a time?
keep bolts in one side and jack up the other side and then switch?
once all 4 bolts are busted/removed. is it best to jack up one corner at a time, one side at a time?
keep bolts in one side and jack up the other side and then switch?
Side to side is pretty easy, if you don't go crazy in your increments while raising you won't have to worry about it rolling off the frame.
if you plan to roll the frame out from under you need to plan for the track width to pass through whatever you block your cab up with.
or you could use a hoist to raise the cab off & set it down elsewhere but pay attention to balance cause the cab will be front heavy.
Helps to have someone there to help also.
once all 4 bolts are busted/removed. is it best to jack up one corner at a time, one side at a time? keep bolts in one side and jack up the other side and then switch?
As I understand from those who have been there a few times.
Did you make a puller? I found that a piece of pipe 3-1/4" ID slips up over the washer / lower bushing, then a piece of 7/16-14 threaded rod and nuts and washer and of course a piece to bridge the end of the pipe will pull the lower bushing / washer off.
planning on making that exact puller. not sure why it has to be so long/deep. I have some longer 7/16-14 bolts that I was going to use as opposed to all-thread. I can add some spacers if the bolt is too long. Then plan on hitting the bolt head w/ an impact gun.
I think if it's long enough to pull the washer with the welded nut 2", long enough. An inch might do it. It was something I pulled off the internet. "Long" just gives you something to hold onto until the bolt /.nut is tightened.
Ok. Just to update progress. Removed exhaust which gives you way more room to access the cab mounts. Went to hardware store looking for pipe but left with a 3” PCV section. I can confirm that pvc is not strong enough. I can also confirm that a metal strap like that shown in the above pic is also not strong enough, nor is a piece of 1” angled aluminum. I’ll need to find a metal supermarket for the pipe and will also pick up a piece of thick steel plate.
My pipe is about 3/16" thick or thicker, it is 3-1/4" inside diameter, it's gonna need that 3-1/4" to slip over the old bushings. Was what once mounted a 10 foot C-band dish on in the yard. I had a 6 foot piece I cut off flush with the ground. I think it was schedule 40 water pipe, but not sure. A internal threaded coupling from like Lowe's if for that pipe would be big enough. A piece of steel 1/4" wall angle would bridge it. You might find pipe at a exhaust shop, scrap bin. I didn't think the strap was strong enough, that picture was from the internet.
ok. got some 3.5" OD, 3"ID steel pipe from my local metal supermarket. cut a section about 4" long. this is perfect fit for the front cab mounts.
too small however for the rear mounts. i'm going to go back tomorrow to get a 4" OD piece that should be perfect. the recess around the rear mounts is larger than the front mounts and should accommodate the larger pipe.
got some steel plate from their scrap bin as well, so those were free.
PS front cab bushing retainer popped off as expected using my 3.5" OD pipe, a steel plate and bolt/washer
The PS rear remains elusive. I got a 4" pipe that fits perfectly in the recess in the frame and started hitting the bolt w/ an air impact wrench. However, I'm starting to bend a grade 8 washer and the 1/8" steel plate.
The bolt's been removed from above, but I wasn't sure if I was missing something. I tried putting the air impact on the retainer itself and it does spin freely. Looking from the cab side I'm not seeing anything from above that might be still connected.
My impact wrench has stopped turning so I've been using a 2' breaker bar and it's still turning. Haven't snapped the grade 8 bolt yet, but wasn't sure if I should continue using brute strength. It's almost as if the retainer is "mushroomed" above the frame.
I'll continue to use the breaker bar unless someone else has any better ideas.
Don't mean to hijack but question is related. How to remove the core support bushings? Drive side bolt came out but not enough clearance to put any thing on the bottom to work as a puller. Pass side the bolt snapped below the washer height.
Don't mean to hijack but question is related. How to remove the core support bushings? Drive side bolt came out but not enough clearance to put any thing on the bottom to work as a puller. Pass side the bolt snapped below the washer height.
Thanks. Return to original topic.
i cut those off with a sawzall above the frame. Planning on replacing that hardware
on the DS, i would thread in an 7/16" all thread from above and pound it w/ a hammer from above, or just cut them off and pay the $15 for new hardware.
ok. got the rear cab retainer removed. after bending the steel plate on my puller, I decided that a broken bolt would be a worse situation. I ended up putting a long bolt in from the cab side and hammered it out. The good news is that the rear retainer and upper metal piece are good. The bad news is that the front cab upper metal sleeve is rusted out and will need to be replaced. I'll likely remove the other side as well to see how many of these upper retainer sleeves I need to buy.
Your set up should work, you might try a piece of steel that completely covers your pipe.
Also try all thread and turn the nut. Be patient after you put some tension on it let it sit. Give it a few taps with a hammer and repeat.
Don't position yourself right under it. I've had one break loose and almost fall on my face.
As far as the core support lower retainers I used a long bolt from the top and some extensions long enough to get where i could pound on them with a 2 pound hammer. A good sized steel rod would work too.
why must everything turn into a 2 hr struggle-fest? after trying to pull the rear cab retainers off from the bottom, and bending 1/8" steel plates, I was able to remove them from above using a longer bolt and hitting it w/ a sledge.
I got the PS front retainer off using a pipe/puller, but the DS is not cooperating at this time w/ the same method. reading the replacement cab bushing directions, the lower retainer will sometimes mushroom as the rubber fails. You're supposed to grind off the mushroomed portion when reinserting the lower hardware. There's no way to get a bolt in from above to hammer it out from above, at least not with the cab on the frame. I might just cut the retainers and buy new hardware at this point unless someone else has a better idea.
I resisted continuing to tighten the bolt on my puller. even though it's a grade 8 bolt, I would rather not have to cut through the retainer and the bolt if I snap it off.
any other guidance here?
