When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That what my failing IDM relay would do. I got stranded at the neighbors. Went home got my scan tool. Watched various things and everything looked good. I decided it was fuel...repalced the fuel filter...running. Thought I had it fixed. The a week later stranded at the sister's/BIL place. Finally read some other instances of the behavior..replaced the IDM relay and it hasn't let me down since that.
So I guess I'm saying, don't be surprised if the issue returns. Something got jiggled around during the tow is my guess...made a connection.
Reinstalling the factory air box.
Those things are prone to break at the latches and leak dirt past the filter. Not sure why they are interested in this in relation to a no start?
Reinstalling the factory air box.
Those things are prone to break at the latches and leak dirt past the filter. Not sure why they are interested in this in relation to a no start?
Reinstalling the factory air box.
Those things are prone to break at the latches and leak dirt past the filter. Not sure why they are interested in this in relation to a no start?
It effects the flow across the Mass Air Flow sensor....I kid.
Very unsatisfying end to this one. He had it towed to town, and it started and ran fine for the shop. No codes either. He had some kind of aftermarket air filter setup that the shop is going to remove and replace with the factory set up that was rattling around in the bed. Oh well, we will have to see how it goes going forward.
If it fails again have them cool the IPR. Best with an upside down can of compressed air, but cool water will do.
I am having the same issue with crank/no-start. ICP failed back in January kickin on the CEL. Had a rough idle. Bought a cheap China part off Amazon, only to have the o-ring fail and all my oil drain out. Replaced with OEM, truck ran fine for a few weeks and then after driving home again hasn’t started since. That last drive I heard a odd whistle scream from what I NOW think was the turbo. Wasn’t sure back then. HPOP did need to be replaced, went ahead and did that and IPR. All pressure level readings are per spec.
What I don’t know and not totally knowledgeable about is the previous owner(fellow construction guy and part time mechanic) has a pedestal delete, and fuel bowl delete. Fuel filter delete in tank. Pressure reading on fuel gage is 60-65psi. It is eating oil even sitting. Which is absurd. My neighbor thinks I should pull the turbo and check for wet oil there. What am I looking for if I do that? If there is oil, what is that bigger indication of?
I also tried the IDM Relay switcheroo. Haven’t tried the CPS.
These are my mods: Tom woods valve body
Engine has had all the major maintenance and upkeep done in the right way. Fuel bowl delete.
Suncoast triple disc converter
Pedestal delete
Fuel bowl delete
Turbo back exhaust
Kc turbo balanced intake and exhaust wheels
456 is front and rear differential
Soft ride 8-in lift
06 headlights and grill
Brand new 1.5 injectors
DP tuner to bring it all together. Lots more little stuff done from the front bumper to the rear.
I am having the same issue with crank/no-start. ICP failed back in January kickin on the CEL. Had a rough idle. Bought a cheap China part off Amazon, only to have the o-ring fail and all my oil drain out. Replaced with OEM, truck ran fine for a few weeks and then after driving home again hasn’t started since. That last drive I heard a odd whistle scream from what I NOW think was the turbo. Wasn’t sure back then. HPOP did need to be replaced, went ahead and did that and IPR. All pressure level readings are per spec.
What I don’t know and not totally knowledgeable about is the previous owner(fellow construction guy and part time mechanic) has a pedestal delete, and fuel bowl delete. Fuel filter delete in tank. Pressure reading on fuel gage is 60-65psi. It is eating oil even sitting. Which is absurd. My neighbor thinks I should pull the turbo and check for wet oil there. What am I looking for if I do that? If there is oil, what is that bigger indication of?
I also tried the IDM Relay switcheroo. Haven’t tried the CPS.
These are my mods: Tom woods valve body
Engine has had all the major maintenance and upkeep done in the right way. Fuel bowl delete.
Suncoast triple disc converter
Pedestal delete
Fuel bowl delete
Turbo back exhaust
Kc turbo balanced intake and exhaust wheels
456 is front and rear differential
Soft ride 8-in lift
06 headlights and grill
Brand new 1.5 injectors
DP tuner to bring it all together. Lots more little stuff done from the front bumper to the rear.
Welcome to FTE and sorry to hear of your troubles. What I would recommend is for you to disconnect both batteries, turn on the headlight switch to COMPLETELY remove any residual charge left in the electrical system and then remove the DP chip from the end of the engine computer (PCM) and then attempt to start the engine after reconnecting the batteries. From there, come back and start a new thread so we are not highjacking someone else's thread and report what happened.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.