I have another thread under “ hard start “, that I’m just not getting a lot of response on towards the end. Bottom line is I’ve spent over close to $2000 which is fine my decision but I figured the shop that it’s that would figure it out. They haven’t.

Refer to the other to see what I replaced I and what I’ve done to the truck already at this shop. The one thing that might be related is when I started to have a hard start issues on the rear tank, I noticed that the front tank was not working well either and then eventually the front tank just died no start at all on the front tank. I never had issues with the front tank from day one and by the truck used until just now.

The tech says when the hard start rears it’s ugly head from the rear tank the gas is gurgling as if it has air in it too.

When it starts “clean” it’s beautiful. The engine will run as smooth as a kitten purring and when you shut it off. Sometimes it starts right up and sometimes it takes about 10-15 minutes before I can get it going.

So the shop with our discussion with the mechanic decided to drop the front tank to see what’s happening. Could the hard start just running off the rear tank be related to the front tank stopping to work?

truck is a 92 F 250 5.8 motor 2wd auto

don

 

See my response in your original thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20819344

 

I dont mean this ugly, but you dont answer their questions, so you prolly wont get help here, go re-read your thread, you was asked questions, and all you said was thank you, and you havent posted fuel pressure yet, for either tank when running or when hard to start, could be fuel regulator, could be coil, to distributor, not in it, could be ICM, going bad, or the wrong one bought, instead of loading the parts cannon, test the parts you take off first or find new/different shop.

 

Randy

If I saw it it went right over my head. This makes it kind of sense I’ll bring this up to the tech first thing in the morning. I do know that this Maria does not have that valve system which some trucks have that both tanks feed into. I don’t believe you’re referring to this. Thank you thank you thank you Don

 

I apologize and your right. I use to be a decent tech in the day but his 67 age is creeped up on me and I have a lot of things that I’m battling which I’m not gonna get into. It’s not your fight it’s mine

trust me when I say this, I will slow down and pay more attention. Thank you so so much Don

 

The 1989 and earlier trucks used three fuel pumps and a frame rail mounted switching valve. Each tank had a low pressure pump that feed into a switching valve (aka dual function reservoir) before going to the high pressure pump. Your truck does not use this system.

Your truck has a high pressure pump assembly inside each tank. Each Fuel Delivery Module (FDM) has a pump, check valve (supply output) and a shuttle valve (return side). The selected tank will pump fuel passed the check valve to the fuel rail at the engine. The fuel will exit the return side of the fuel rail to the fuel pressure regulator then head toward the return side of the selected fuel tank. While the selected tank's fuel pump is running that pressure opens the shuttle valve on the return side so fuel will return to that tank. The unselected tank's check valve on it's supply side will be closed. With no pump running on this tank the shuttle valve is closed. Both of these valves prevent fuel from flowing into the unselected tank. Therein lies the problem when/if the check valve or shuttle valve no longer closes all the way. Fuel will leak into the unused tank. This typically will fill the unused tank eventually AND this diverted fuel flow can also decrease the fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the engine. It happens on this vintage truck frequently.

Example Fuel Delivery Module (FDM) on your truck.

 

Overall fuel system diagram for your truck courtesy of Subford
Attachment 277308

 

Randy

thank you for the unsolicited diagrams. They are greatly greatly appreciated. Randy, if you and your family ever come to Florida you have a place to stay and be happy to give you a ride in my 897 hp 07 GT500

don

 

Randy, torq’ta5.8

again thank you both, I dropped off the information that you posted Randy and that’s with a tech think he’s taking the tank down the front tank down and it’s gonna be looking at check valves

I will keep you both posted

don

 

Huge shouts out to ria2005 and torq’ra5.8 and helping me get my truck running. They were extremely patient with me which is appreciated and I think come Monday I’ll get it back. The front tanks now working and no issues with the truck stalling or hard start. The shop ran it all day and it when they turned it off, every time it started up fine. They will switch it to the rear tank on Monday do the same thing at the truck starts and stops and starts and stops in the entire day where I should be good to go

don

 

Glad its headed, the right way, with it drivng again, rla2005, is very knowledgeable on these trucks, and I always learn something.

 

randi

I promised you I would give you an update once I get the truck back and I got it back today. I will let you know what was done to the truck but the truck is running real real smooth as I would expect. I had new spark plugs put in, new plug wires, new fuel tank selector switch which is why the front tank wasn’t working, distributor and rotor, distributor cap, PCV valve, air filter for the engine, fuel filter, ignition coil, electronic ignition module and that’s about it.
When they drop the front tank the tech said the check valve is part of the fuel assembly pump, you have to replace everything. You can order it piecemeal but my system isn’t that way. They kept the truck for an extra 3 days just letting it idle switching from front to rear and had no issues. The. Tach asked me to drive the truck for 4-6 front tanks with out ever going to the rear tank. Than he advised to than go to the rear tank and only drive it on the rear tank for the same cycle period. If no issues I should be good to go.

However, what you advised me was the check valve in the front tank in all probability is bad. So I am considering just having the the whole fuel pump assembly replaced even though the tech said to drive it. They think they got the issue handled. I’m not so sure. He also gave me a heads up which is the first I’ve heard of this I want to pick your head, he said these old trucks weren’t designed for ethanol fuels and that with ethanol in the fuel there’s going to eventually deteriorate the fuel lines in the seals. Have you heard of this before ?
Don

 

Heres a good read -->Jay Leno hates ethanol

 

not good!

well I did some research and found that certain gas stations do sell non ethanol fuel at the pump. 4.40 something like that not cheap but doable, just filled the truck up and will start using it when I have to refill

don

 

Could use the ethanol stabilizer's that are out now less expensive than ethanol free I know Stihl, will clog up their carbs if you use ethanol gas down here, small engine shops charge $45 to clean them out, guy at work trying to go into yard cutting and had chain saw and weed eater, sold both got no name.