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I need some help on what is the proper procedure for cooling the turbo down before I turn off the engine. I understand that for working the truck you sure better cool down but for how long. I had a gauge on the Cummins I had but with no gauge what procedure do you guys use for a typical cool down? For example, for a 3 mile run across town and then back do I need to sit and let it run and if so for how long. Do I need a gauge and if so where does it go. I see many people with our kinds of trucks and they pull up and just turn them off. What do you guys recommend? Thanks........
If you have been driving in traffic with stoplights, stop signs, and misc. stop and go there is no need for cool down. Even coming off an interstate highway (not pulling a heavy trailer), by the time you decelerate, stop at the end of the on- ramp, pull into the parking lot or service station, you have cooled the turbo down sufficiently to shut it off. The reason for cool down is that the exhaust side of the turbo under full load, full throttle operation can reach temperatures of up to about 1000-degrees. The exhaust turbine is connected to the intake side impeller by a shaft that runs through a bearing that is cooled and lubricated by engine oil. If this shaft is at nearly 1000-degrees, and the engine is shut off, the oil flow to the shaft and bearing stops. This leaves the remaining oil on the sahft and bearing exposed to the high temperature and the oil will burn, forming ash. When the engine is restarted, this ash acts like an abrasive to the bearing and damage can result. With continuing oil flow, this bearing cools down to a temperature below the oil's flash point quite quickly. As long as from full throttle to shut-off is a minute or two there should be no problem. Driving at 30 to 45 MPH and lignt load would be considered cool-down time.
Bob, first of all thank you for your response. This is what I was needing to know. Second, do you recommend a pyrometer for pulling a trailer. I pull in the summers in your neck of the woods and sometimes the pulls can be something else. I have not had this truck in the mountains yet, going Tue. but not taking the trailer.
I use to fly turbo charged airplanes and we always cooled the turbo for 2 mins at idle.
The ford manual says only if you are pulling heavy loads etc.
I added on the remote start with turbo cool down mode. I use it almost everytime. You activate it. Remove the key(truck still runs) and it will shut it self off. I have mine set for 3 mins for run of the mill stuff. If I am pulling etc. I will manually cool it longer.
Tmorgan2, There is nothing wrong with a pyrometer, but if your engine is stock or nerar stock I don't think there is mus necessity of having one. The engineers that designed the Power Stroke diesel were very aware of excessive exhaust temperatures and programed the fuel and air delivery systems with a fairly large margin for error. The engine has been tested extensively in mountain terain at high ambient temperatures with tremendous loads and is designed to 'take care of itself'. When modifications to the stock fuel and air delivery systems are performed, then you are going 'outside' the factory engineering and a pyrometer is possibly a good investment. NO over-the-road diesel tractor sold in America today comes standard with a pyrometer anymore. The manufacturers are very confident in the engine's electronics to prevent engine damage. More confident, in fact, than in the driver's abillity to monitor a pyrometer and the pyrometer's accuracy itself.
F2506.Owannabe, In the case of turbocharged airplanes you are talking of turbocharged GASOLINE engines which see temperatures FAR HIGHER than turbocharged diesels. Also, an airplane operates at an almost CONSTANT load, similar to a marine engine. No coasting, no downhill, no waiting at stop lights, etc. Therefore what is known as "heat soak" is much more severe in an airplane. What you are doing is is overkill in the case of your diesel pickup, and is just adding idle hours to the engine which are somewhat harmfull. The Ford owner's manual is correct.
RE: REMOTE START SYSTEMS. I would NEVER want to start an engine without me being around to watch (oil pressure guage, exhaust smoke, etc.) and listen during this critical phase of an engine's operation. I think it only adds to and engine's idle hours which are harmful to the engine and annoying to your neighbors and the environment.
Originally posted by BobJonesSpecial RE: REMOTE START SYSTEMS. I would NEVER want to start an engine without me being around to watch (oil pressure guage, exhaust smoke, etc.)
BobJonesSpecial
Could not agree more, I have a difficult time understanding the remote start, if you are out in the field………way out, then it seems acceptable. At home……………….hum!!!
Personaaly fellas, a pre-post luber is the ideal situation. No wasted fuel, no wet stacking, no deposits from idling, just a win win all the way around. I have been thinking about that quite a bit. When starting, you get oil pressure up before spinning anything, and at shut down, you keep the oil flowing for even cooling and no turbo bearing coaking. I am using synthethics, but...... Still a posibility of coaking under extremes.
Lariat
I put a pre/post luber on my dad's '96 7.3. Towed a 32' 5th wheel all over the country with it. It was a fair job to install but a quality product. If only I could remember who made it... Anyway, that has got to the be best thing you could ever do for your turbocharger.