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2004 F250 6.0. I started have a long crank to start now it is a complete no start. IPR goes to 84% while cranking and base oil pressure only builds to about 100PSI. I forced it to start and it runs great and I get normal high pressure oil while its running and the IPR adjust properly while running but as soon as I shut it down and try to restart it does the same thing. I am going to change the IPR today and hope for the best but if it does not do the trick what else should I look for? FICM voltages are good and when its running it runs strong and normal.
Well it appears your LP is building so that is one less thing you have to worry about.
Pull the IPR and see what you find (ripped screen) with that. While you're in there check the wiring that is close to the turbo for integrity.
Do not use starting fluid....EVER.
If you don't find any deficiencies with the IPR and related wiring then you probably have a HP oil leak. You don't have the SCT fitting so it could be the stand pipes, dummy plugs if not yet updated or your HPOP failed.
I know starting fluid is not a good thing but I am really scratching my head here. i pulled the IPR last night and it looked ok but I have a new one being delivered today
thanks for the advice
In that case, we're gonna need some real-time numbers from a scanner or program that reads the truck's parameters. What are you using to read PIDs?
Forscan Lite App and a Bluetooth (android) or Wireless (iOS) OBDII dongle will work. You can also download the full version of Forscan for your tablet or laptop (only windows versions available though for the full version) and use the same dongle for comms.
Please post any codes you have - be aware that not all scanners are equal. Some are better than others at retrieving codes (which is why we recommend Forscan). Need values for the following @ KOEO, and while crank-no-start happens:
at 100 PSI on crank, but runs when forced to, its HIGHLY likely its a blown o-ring "somewhere." In time it will blow out completely and shut you down on the highway, ask me how I know lol.
1st search for "Bubble test" to see if its an injector, you can also isolate which side its coming from.
If it is an injector order an O-ring kit and do all on that side (or all of 8 them for that matter) Keep track of the copper washers at the tips must replace them and must get the old one out.
a better test is the "air test" you will need to buy a few thing to do this, but if your going to keep the truck for long time its 100% worth it.
with this test you can pin-pont EXACTLY where the leak is and you can fix/ replace from there.
lots of o-rings/ seals that can go out, best to Isolate what it is exactly then try and just buy everything and swap it,
All of my numbers look good except even with a new IPR it goes to 84% while cranking. I removed my oil filter and can see oil flow into the filter housing now the one thing i am unsure of is that the oil drains back down rather fast but I do not know if that is because the filter is out or the check valve is bad. I get about 150 to 200 psi of oil pressure while cranking. Do you think it would be a good next step to go after the dummy plugs and standpipes? when forced to run my IPR works properly and I get proper high pressure oil. I also did the bubble test and it passed. Thank you for all your help.
Part of the test that involves filling your oil filter housing when cranking (filter out) is to check how long it takes to fill (both with the drain valve left open AND when it is pushed closed). The other part is to make sure that when the housing is full, it does not drain out when you push down (close) the housing drain valve.