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If it runs good it is good. and you should always carry a spare.
Even the Motorcraft ones are chinese now I don't think you can buy a quality one. but that goes for all the ignition systems you can buy for older rigs.
If it runs good it is good. and you should always carry a spare.
Even the Motorcraft ones are chinese now I don't think you can buy a quality one. but that goes for all the ignition systems you can buy for older rigs.
Doesn’t run at all, rather I’m getting a lot of “bad out of the box” parts or I’m missing something, getting signal to the coil, couldn’t check anything while cranking, will bring my helper out today to test the whole ignition.
I’ve also cruised through about 4 starter solenoids, 1 has been bad before installed with continuity between the ignition post and battery post, and the other 3 will crank by key initially, and end up failing, some failing in different areas than others, is it a possibility it’s a problem on my end? The most stress I put them through would be bridging battery post to start post while being jumped by another vehicle, any tips would be great
I got 2 bad pickup ciols in a row, Standard brand. you might check that.
The chinese junk we get now will make you pull your hair out I feel your pain. and nearly all brands are the same junk in a different box. I try to buy NOS parts off ebay when I find them.
I got 2 bad pickup ciols in a row, Standard brand. you might check that.
The chinese junk we get now will make you pull your hair out I feel your pain. and nearly all brands are the same junk in a different box. I try to buy NOS parts off ebay when I find them.
do you happen to have a good way to test if an ecm is good or not? As well as the pickup coil? Everything else is pretty straight forward for me, just stuck on those 2
This should be it purple and orange wires on the distributor side of the harness, between roughly 450 & 650 ohms. I ohm out 2 from NAPA, both with in specs. Both idled and that was it, give it throttle and it fell flat on its face.
Best to get the modules and solenoid's from salvage yard cars. They used them on most Fords part way through the 80's on about everything. Escorts, Pinto's Lincolns. AMC's/Jeeps were using them into mid eighties. Just look for the blue strain box. Don't look for new shiny replaced parts. Look for a car an accident put it in salvage. Probably running when it was hit.
How can I test my ecm with a multimeter to confirm it’s good or not?
You can't really, the things are solid state.. Even the service manuals say to replace with a known good module. After you have checked all the wiring,
I quit using Duraspark ICU's 30 years ago. I used regular Mopar boxes until those became chineseium. I use these now, never had one fail. But just in case I have a failure I carry a GM 4 pin in the glove box to get home with. FBO Ignition ECU Module HRR688 Dodge Plymouth Chrysler all V8 Mopar engines 610877674138 | eBay
Has anyone ever tried wiring a chevy HEI module into the Ford wiring?? I've seen diagrams for this online, but never had a need to try it.
I carry a GM 4 pin module that I have pre-wired in my glove box for emergencies. But my FBO box runs on a full 12V so it is just plug and go. If you replace a Duraspark ICU with one be sure and remove the resistor wire. Also, they get very hot, so it definitely needs a heat sink under it. You can mine some really nice heat sinks out of a dead desktop computer.