My passenger side exhaust manifold is leaking again. It was fix once by FORD and the did new manifold, gasket and was told SS studs. The nuts are definitely not SS as they are all rusted away. I am putting a new DORMAM ceramic coated manifold on.I am looking for the best brand manifold gasket and SS stud set to get.
Thank you for any help.

 

If I were going to do it again, I'd use the updated Ford SS exhaust studs and nuts:

W703902-S403 (Studs)
W701706-S2 (Nuts, uncertain if they are SS or not).

Stainless steel to stainless steel is prone to galling. You'll want to add high temp anti-seize if the nuts are stainless. I'd imagine getting some high quality passivated stainless flange nuts off McMaster could be a good option as well

I went with a Remflex gasket set. They are very thick graphite material which do well in sealing up warping or any other defects between mating surface and manifold.

 

have the regular Permatex anti seize and marine grade, will they work. Want to do this the right way and hope for no issues.

 

I used the studs and nut kit from ebay. Dont use ford crap..I think they were from a co in mass..
Been 3 years all is good.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/13096807899...Bk9SR5bj8LPuYQ

 

Agree on stainless galling. Coarse thread can be ok but fine thread is pretty much a guaranteed nightmare.

 

The guy Brian from YouTube FordTechMakuloco chanel recommend those exact one when doing the manifolds on the 5.4 not Ford brand. Do not know why but the guy seems to know his 5.4l.

 

I have been sharing this info for years..I might have told him....lol.

 

The hardware could still be SS even though it's rusting. Some grades of stainless, like 17-4 and 409( alot of "SS" exhaust systems) are 2 that will rust on exposed surfaces. There's a chance the threads that aren't exposed are just fine, especially if you got a good tech that used liberal anti-seize when they assembled it. I'd try wire brushing 1 or 2 and soaking them overnight in penetrating oil and seeing if they come off.

If you are just gonna replace everything, I'd suggest either staking with a punch, or welding, the nuts to the studs before you disassemble anything and using them to remove the stud.

 

If FORD put the upgrade staid on when the replaced it would it not be SS? If SS will a regular nut weld to it? Also is regular Permatex anti seize or marine grade any goo to use on the studs?

 

Dorman??????

Good luck with that.

— Dave

 

Yeah it'll weld, it just won't weld well. But still worth a shot.

 

What is that suppose to mean??? State your reason and what should be used.

 

I trust that guy, I had no idea he recommended those over the Ford versions. I sort of redact my earlier statement if that is the case.

For reference, I used the following tools to get all the studs out on my V10 (They were original with 200k on them)
Stud drill/tap jig:

Stud Extractor (for broken studs with some material outside the manifold)

Extractors that actually grab and pull out:

 

If they break off flush you need too weld to them to remove..I wouldnt drill.

That tool is a life saver if you have something to grab. must use heat in all cases
Use copper antiseize the aluminum is junk.

 

This is the set I have. I am hoping it is not to bad seeing FORD already replaced them. I CAN ONLY HOPE. lol