Is wet stacking a loss of lubrication in diesel engines when they are left idling for an extended period of time?? If this occurrence is due to idling the engine, how long is a safe time frame to allow an engine to idle / morning warm up, before you could expect problems. I try to warm up my truck 5 to 10 min in the mornings before leaving for work, I’m I doing more long term damage the good?? Please advise.

 

You will need an idle controller to maintain an EGT of 275* or higher to prevent wet stacking. In the morning I start the truck, scrape the ice off the windows then drive it easy til I get some decent temp on the gauge.

 

Bummer! I've let my engine idle and idle while I hook up my RV, load toys, check tire pressure, etc. The Wet Stacking article was very informative (that guy must really know his stuff). So....Is there anything I can do to clean off the exhaust valve stem deposits? I sometimes run a bottle of Rotella Diesel Clean Additive (about every 8 to 10 tanks or so). Would that help clean the valve stems?

 

Hey gchavez,

The Shell Rotella DFA, Siloo, or Diesel Service additives should do the trick. I can vouch for the Shell and Siloo, but not any other.

For whatever its worth, I have been around diesel engines most of my life, and picked up a lot along the way. A lot of old time diesel users add a pint or so of automatic transmission fluid to a tank full of diesel every few tank fill ups. They claim it burns a little hotter, and helps lubricate and clean the injectors and valves. Obviously it would help burn off deposits off the exhaust valves if it burns hotter. And probably you would need to watch your EGT, of course. Whether or not their feeling is true would depend on a controlled lab study, but many swear by it. With the ready availabilty of the DFA's available, there is a lot of choice. Just that most DFA's are about 5 bucks a quart. But most DFA's available also address the Cetane levels, but then maybe so does tranny fluid.

I personally buy my DFA at Wal Mart. Siloo is carried at most large truckstops. It is a little pricey, but proven over and over and over. Most knowledgeable over the road big riggers swear by it. Me too, especially for its anti freezing, water removal, and anti gelling capability. But since I live in the Seattle area, and it rarely goes below 30 degrees, I don't feel I need it as bad as the guys in the northern states, like Wisconsin, Minnesota, etc.

 

Thanks TJC1989,
I get my DFA from Wal-Mart as well. They only carry the Rotella, but it's not too expensive, about $3.50 a bottle I guess. It's the anti-gelling formula, which like you, I don't need because winters aren't too severe here in Arizona. I might try a little ATV fluid now and then once I get some guages. I hadn't considered buying any guages because my engine is unmodified.......but lately I've been thinking it might be a good idea to get guages anyway. This way I can monitor my tranny temp while towing, Watch boost levels to manage fuel economy and now to watch EGTs if I add ATV fluid, or add a engine brake to my truck, etc.

Seems like the obvious first step would be to get an exhaust system and guages together, then maybe look at an engine brake later. BTW, do you know if aftermarke engine brakes replace the stock valve thing I already have in my exhaust system? And if so, will the new brake also do double duty to take care of things like closing off at cold start ups to help the engine warm up faster, keep the EGTs high to reduce deposits etc. Just curious.

Thanks again

 

This old timer trick isn't safe to do with the newer engines. Why bother using ATF anyway when the additive's are so cheap. The cost is about equal to run Standyne lubricity formula in every tank.

 

Hey gchavez,

You know I don't know about the exhaust brake question you asked. That would be a good topic for a new post.

I have the tranny temp, boost and EGT on mine and sure like them. I definitely think those and a little exhaust mods will make you a happy man. Of course, then a chip mod would make you even happier if you had the guages and exhaust..... Of everyone I have talked to about their truck I have not heard one say they regretted doing a bigger free flowing exhaust. It always comes back to "is it need or want?"

Right now, I don't pull anything very heavy. A little later I plan to, and being able to watch critical areas of my engine will be a plus, when pulling a grade or strong headwind.

 

Hey Johnsdiesel,

Have you tried the Power Services Diesel Kleen and / or Cetane boost? I have been thinking of trying it. Wal Mart has it for about 11 bucks for a 96 ounce jug. Stanidyne products seem a little harder to come across, without special order.

My problem is, no one around here has a clue to tell me what the cetane rating is on the diesel I buy. The stations just drag out docs stating it is blended or winterized #2. I do know that my engine starts better in the morning with a DFA, than without. Of course a DFA does several things, so not sure which thing does the most for cold starts on mine.

 

I use diesel Kleen religiosly,white in summer; grey in winter. I do idle for about 15mins each morn, thenlet it idle for about 1-2 min depending on time driven, Don`t have gauges yet,,,Thats why we have X- Mas

Pls keep me informed

Hanklin

Happy Holidays

 

I have used the Diesel Kleen for about 3 months on every fill up. Can't really claim any performance or mileage boost.
But, if it cleans the innards of the old beast, like it claims it can, all the better.

 

Referring back to the post by TJC1989, concerning adding ATF every few tanks of fuel, I had done similar. I posted a long time ago about a Ford dealer buddy of mine that commented one day about my injectors being a little loud and he recommended putting a quart of 30 weight motor oil in the tanks at fill-ups. Not recycled oil, new only. I tried it for a year or so, and I firmly believe it did some good. The injectors quieted down, the engine ran a little better, fuel mileage improved very slightly, and there was no noticible smoke out the exhaust. I've not done it in a while, but do so occssionally if it seems like things are getting a little loaded up, loud injectors, etc. I also priced this against some of the additives available around here, and the motor oil trick is much cheaper. I figured my buddy must have known what he was talking about since he also drove a PSD, and so far I have nothing to indicate otherwise.

 

I agree Fatbob, some of the home remedies maybe can't be proven to help, but many sure can't be proven to hurt, either. You know, some farmer out in the Plains states that runs thousands of gallons of diesel yearly through their John Deere's, Massey Fergusons, Fords, IHC's, etc. and try different things through trial and error to help their engines for various reasons, probably have come across many great tips that no one will ever know about. Except fellow farmers, of course. Those diesel engines are somewhat different from our PSD's but still have many similarities and principals the same. I too have heard of clean engine oil being added in moderate amounts every so often to diesel. Kerosene, too. Gasoline is taboo. So is alcohol. And of course, water. I just wish my tank had a drain to drain off any water that may inadvertantly get in. I would rather get the source than spend a lot of time draining the fuel filter after buying a bad batch of diesel.

The thing about ATF, is that if you have ever been inside an automatic tranny that was not burned up or abused, you can't help but notice how clean the metal parts are, and how little wear to the gearing, etc. I use ATF to lubricate my air tools, like impact wrenches, air ratchets, drills, etc. in place of marvel mystery oil, and feel it is great. I think if I was in a real pickle, and had no alternative, I would use ATF in my 2 cycle engines, instead of 2 cycle oil, and not be very worried about it.

Back to the original post, this is a concern for me, because my daily driving is so short. I drive 30 miles one way to work, then shut it off. It is just at a good operating temp when I shut it down. I certainly think this is a contributing factor for wet slacking that could cause a valve to become sticky, and allow a piston to hit it. This is what separates us mostly from the big riggers, and folks operating other kinds of diesel equipment. They run longer and stay at operating temp longer.

Oddly enough, I'm not a firm believer though in oil additives, cleaners, etc. I would rather go after cleaning valve guides, valve stems, etc. from the fuel end of the deal, and leave my engine oil alone.

 

What does an injector sound like?