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I'm installing a DIY exhaust brake & don't know which wire to tap into the idle validation switch (IVS). I believe the IVS is the 2-wire harness to the left of the accelerator. I've got the multimeter out & don't find any wires that are +12V w/ the pedal down, 0V with the pedal released. Anyone know what color & stripe wire I need to use for the IVS section of the exhaust brake? Thanks.
I'm also struggling to find the brake pressure sensor wire. Supposed to be an open wire for the center high mount stop lamp near the master cylinder. Anyone out there do this install? Which wires did you use?
I've got two wires. One is red w/ green, the other is red w/ yellow. Do you know which one it is? what about the brake pressure sensor?
Why do I get satisfaction out of this frustration?
Ok, I had it running & of course the exhaust brake comes on when I push the pedal. The IVS wire I found generates a +12V when the pedal is down and 0V when the pedal is released. I had wired it expecting the opposite, but at least I am making progress.
By the way, the red wire with the yellow stripe is the feed and the red wire with the green stripe is the IVS signal.
you have the correct wire, just wired wrong. You need to run that wire to a relay so that the the 0 voltage closes the relay and allows power to pass to the exhaust brake. The 12 volts you get when you step on the pedal opens the relay and cuts power to the brake.
Don't even worry about the brake lamp feed, I never even use that feature on mine since I wired to the IVS, I like the IVS side of it MUCH better.
Good luck!
I used the brake feed from right at the brake pedal. I am under the understanding that this is used to cancel cruise while the exhaust brake is on. I don't think I would use the brake pedal switch to power the exhaust brake. Does anyone know what kind of exhaust temps this will generate? I don't have an EGT guage, should I be concerned? I also do not run with a chip or any engine mods.
Also I have been kicking around the idea of using a dimmer for the exhaust brake switch, that way I could increase/decrease the braking hp on demand. Anybody try that route, or does its (in)effectiveness require the valve to get a full 12V?
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