2015 F250 6.2 4x4 CCLB

Started with the inspection. Failed because the junction at the rear by the rubber hoses were rusted. Fine, I'll do it.

Bought new factory rubber lines thinking I can splice right into the stock lines. Welp, apparently the stock lines cannot be flared with a typical flaring tool. With the line already cut and brake fluid dripping out, I got stuck and the entire thing went sideways.

its 30º out, I'm in the mud and snow, with little light. After about two hours, I managed to crack free the two unions up by the front driveshaft. the stock lines go into the frame rail and the gas tank is in the way. I'm thinking I just snip them and run the new stuff leaving the old stuff there? Just not sure how I'm going to run them. just over the tank? have them rest on top of the tank?

I also used the steel line. I bought the copper/nickel stuff, and it just would not flare right. it was almost like it was too soft. so I was thinking maybe pick a bunch of rubber line to cover the brake line that I'm going to feed over the tank to protect it. put hose clamps on each end and call it a day.

there anything I'm missing about this job? it sucks out here and I'm over it. thanks all.

 

Confused..

So the "T" block on the rear axle, at the end of the rubber, line was rotted? How were you trying to splice in another rubber line?

Normally you just remove that rubber line, 2 fittings at the "T" block on the axle, the bolt holding it to the axle and one fitting up at the frame and replace the whole piece. IDk why your having trouble flaring the lines, I've done countless repairs on factory and CU/NI lines and never had an issue unless it wasn't deburred correctly before I flared it.

 

No, the block on the axle was fine. Off that T, there are two rubber lines that lead up to the frame.




Not the bracket side, the side with the two open ends. Those were pretty rotted. I broke one right off easily with a few fingers.

The fittings that slide over the brake line were rusted and were stripped. Had to use vice grips to crack them lose. My initial move was to cut the factory lines, and double flare them with new nuts and thread them right in. Welp, that factory line couldn't be flared. Its some plastic stuff. I've double flared countless lines and never had an issue. These just weren't flaring. Also, the new brake nuts/fittings don't fit over the factory lines. So I had to follow the factor lines allllll the way to the next metal union which is up by the front driveshaft. It took about two hours with vice grips and wrenches to crack them free of the rust, but I got it.

Where I am now, is two 10' lengths of 3/16 steel brake line connected to the unions. Then, connected to the rubber lines in that pic above. I just ran out of time to route them properly and didn't want the fluid leaking overnight. Just wanted to seal the system until I can get back to it.

Where I am now is running the brake lines properly. The old lines are still in there. Do I just cut them flush and sling the new steel lines up over the tank? I can't do it "factory style" along the frame because the space between the fuel tank and frame rail is too small. I was thinking maybe slapping some fuel line or something over the new brake line to help prevent it from rubbing against something and corrosion as it just say on the tank.

This whole job went sideways in a really bad manner.

 

Usually you can fish the lines through between the frame and tank with a little work, but with the weather your dealing with, I'd do the rubber over hard lines and run it wherever I could just to get it done, securing it with zip ties, then go back when it's not cold and ****ty out and run them the right way. If those were that rusty it might be worth planning on dropping the tank to check out the fuel lines at the same time.

 

It sucked because the lines were great. it was just one metal fitting that rusted out and led to a chain reaction of removing factory lines.

I bought 15' of rubber hose (figured 6' for two lines) to go over the steel lines. I'll try tying them into the unions near the front axle then slinging the new steel stuff over the tank I guess.

I'm at the stage of my life where I have better stuff to be doing. Hauling it off to a shop to have them drop the tank and deal with it is almost worth it to me.

 

All in. Used the copper stuff. That was a mess. Weather didn't help doing it outside in the mud and rain. Bled it all done and they work great. Just need to fasten it a little better but I'm going to wait for a clearer day to do that.

But yea, stock lines cannot be worked on. Unless there are some special tools or fittings or something.