Replacing steel brake lines
#1
Replacing steel brake lines
I have to soon replace the steel brake line that runs along the frame and out past the gas tank to the rear. I was wondering what the easy way of replacing this line would be? I am guessing that since there is next to now room between the frame and tank that I am at least going to have to loosen the tank, if not drop it out of the way. If anyone has done this repair, please let me know the best way of tackling this job.
2002 F250 V10 4x4 Ext Cab Long Bed
2002 F250 V10 4x4 Ext Cab Long Bed
#2
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Jersey Shore Not Seaside!
Posts: 544
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
You can feed a line down the rail but the problem is without removing the tank it has a good chance or moving and rubbing against other things. That will remove the little amount of plating on the outside that aftermarket lines have and rust will develop at that point.
So the best way is to drop the tank and do it.
If you have the time to wait, Classic Tube now sells complete stainless line kits for our vehicles (250's are the same as 350s), and if you call them, you might be able to just get the rear line. This way no more rusting!
So the best way is to drop the tank and do it.
If you have the time to wait, Classic Tube now sells complete stainless line kits for our vehicles (250's are the same as 350s), and if you call them, you might be able to just get the rear line. This way no more rusting!
#3
Just cap the end of the new brake line (to avoid contamination) and gently push it threw the gap. Once it is all hooked up use your fingers to push the line away from everything especially metal surfaces! Anything and everything a brake line touches will cause it to rust including its holding clips along the frame.
I never will stop saying stainless brake lines should be standard on all vehicles, it is a safety item!
I never will stop saying stainless brake lines should be standard on all vehicles, it is a safety item!
#4
I would love stainless, but I leave for OBX in 2 weeks and want to get them replaced. I also agree that for the little extra cost of stainless, that it should be a feature that is put on at the factory. This new steel they are using for brakelines is nothing compared to what it used to be. Mine is rusting out at the plastic clips that hold it to the frame.
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
I bought my brake line in a 20 or 25 foot coil and the fittings at one of my local parts stores (Not Advance or Auto Zone) NAPA will have it as well. Once I removed the fuel tank straps so I could move the tank over a little it went real quick. I think the hardest parts were flaring the ends and bleeding the system. I was using one of those mightvac bleeding pumps, but kept getting air all the time. Got my wife to pump the brakes after I had to empty the container for the 8th time. I would also get at least 2 quarts of brake fluid, you will just about use it all.
When I removed my old line, I diconnected the rear fitting and brought the whole line down and let it sit in my oil drain pan, then took the top off the master cyclinder. I left it go like this for a while so I could drain most of the old fluid out.
When I removed my old line, I diconnected the rear fitting and brought the whole line down and let it sit in my oil drain pan, then took the top off the master cyclinder. I left it go like this for a while so I could drain most of the old fluid out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MS86
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
4
03-28-2017 05:12 AM
whalerron
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
6
10-19-2014 09:42 PM
flavo
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
9
05-28-2013 12:31 PM
dobber97
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
07-09-2009 04:34 AM