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So first of all thank you for everyone suggesting checking the wiring diagram. Come to find out it was originally wired wrong on the solenoid. Replaced the solenoid and wired it correctly and then all the power to the entire vehicle came back. Tried to start it from the cab and it nearly turned over. My code reader pops a 10,11,23. So obviously the Throttle position sensor is bad and could be the main part of the reason it’s not starting. Going to replace the sensor, starter and fuel pump as I noticed the fuel was barely coming through the line when I checked it. More than likely bad or clogged pump. Gonna clean the lines out to make sure there’s no debris or anything. Thank you again. I’ll update as the parts come in.
Glad you're making progress. Here's a link to an article on how to test the TPS. You can use straight pins instead of wire piercing probes. Just be very careful not to touch them together, or go ahead and order the wire piercing probes. They're needed for tests on these trucks. https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...oes-the-tps-do
So where should I start with the fuel pump issues? Should I change the pump in the front or back tank or should I change the external fuel pump first? I’d like to change one now, get it running then figure out any other issues before changing both tanks pumps.
Start with a fuel pressure gauge and test pressure in a few spots
Both in tank pumps on your '87 should put about 18 lbs. pressire in the reservoir and up to the frame pump
The frame pump boosts the pressure to around 40
So, a rail check looking for 40 lbs, and if not 40, you are looking rearward at the tanks or crossover valve
So I got all new parts for the external fuel pump, rear tank fuel pump, starter, and the sensor that goes in the throttle body. Replaced all with ease. I did the external fuel pump first and found that was the issue for the fuel not going and is going to the correct psi, but now that everything is wired correctly and all things are installed I turn the key over and hear absolutely nothing. So I assume that since I’ve been trying to start it repeatedly that I burned out the starter. Got a new starter installed it and heard click click click and then some grinding noise. I know from past experience the grinding means that it’s a bad starter. Swap it out with a new one and I only hear the repetitive click click click noise when you don’t have enough juice getting to the starter. Currently charging the battery and I’ll update when I get it in.
the fast clicking is usually a sign of dead battery.
so I got the battery charged to 100%. And that damn thing wanted to turn over so bad. But I could tell the fuel wasn’t getting to it still after I replaced the external pump. Replaced the rear fuel tank internal pump and now the code reader pops a code 34 which says three separate things.CODE 34
EVP – EGR did not respond properly during test – EVP
(O,R,M)
EVR – EVP sensor is/was high – EVP
(O,R,M)
PFE – PFE sensor is/was out of range – PFE
Im thinking EGR? Maybe the valve itself or the sensor? Not entirely sure. Anyone have any ideas?
Stop throwing parts at it. Are you actually testing anything? What pressure do you have at the fuel rail before and after replacing the high pressure pump? Do you hear the in tank pump prime when you turn the key to RUN? The EGR has nothing to do with it not starting. Is there spark?
Absolutely
A little diagnosis saves time and money in the long run
Even if you need to buy or rent a pressure gauge, that is a good place to start
The trick is not to chase your tail on the diagnostics
Lots of smart folks on here with good advice
See if it runs on starting fluid, that is is like step 2
Good luck
007