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Ill have to return the harmonic balancer tools, so ill just go to whatever store says they have the part online to return those and get the timing tool.
I’m probably gonna end up changing it this weekend. I have a few questions.
I’ll use gasket sealer to hold the gasket in place. How do I prevent them from moving when I install? If I were to slide the timing cover onto the oil pan from the top it would slide the timing cover gasket. But if I pushed from the front it on it would move the oil pan gasket.
The gasket kit came with cork gasket and the little rubber thing, for the drop in the oil pan. How do I use rtv to properly connect that? And do I just put a bead of sealer against the block to seal that part of the gasket? If I scrape the oil pan gasket from the inside out it’ll be fine but scraping the timing cover gasket would make it fall right in the oil pan.
I also don’t want to shove towels into the oil pan to prevent gasket from getting in there. If I pull the towels out the gasket material would just fall into the oil pan. Does anyone have something they use for this?
Also I see to install the harmonic balancer before tightening the bolts, and the work life of the sealer is 15 minutes. So if I snug the bolts by hand, install the harmonic balancer, then tighten the bolts will I be fine?
Should I also oil it before I install, and dump some 5w30 I have in the garage on it and let the extra drain out of the oil pan? It’s Pennzoil 5w30 it’s xtra since it leaks, and I’m putting Pennzoil 5w30 full synthetic in now. Does the chain have a specific spot it goes on, or just throw it on the gears and make sure the gears are TDC?
If you have not done that job a few or several times, you will find it damn difficult if not impossible to get the front cover installed with the pan in place. With the lower rubber gasket in place, you have to compress that rubber gasket pretty damn hard to get the dowels (chevy) or bolts lined up (Ford). You just let the gaskets with the glue dry. I use the fancy Edelbrock GaskaCinch stuff I order from Summitt. Any gasket adhesive / glue will work
Will that glue also act as a sealer, or should I use that and sealer?
I have Permatex super high tack sealer is that their equivalent to the Edelbrock? I also have nap rtv silicone, and Permatex #2
Do not use the glue on the bolts
That adhesive on the gaskets + thread sealer on the bolts
You would have hell to pay if you used that adhesive on the bolts
This is the thread sealer I use on the bolts
Do not use the glue on the bolts
That adhesive on the gaskets + thread sealer on the bolts
You would have hell to pay if you used that adhesive on the bolts
This is the thread sealer I use on the bolts
ok, I didn’t mean to say it’s for the bolts if I did. I have anti seize for those. And i have some blue loctite I’ve been told to use for those. I’ll use the anti-seize on the timing cover part of the bolt and the loctite on the threads.
I know I’ve asked a lot of questions on this but I have these important ones.
Would I be better off getting RTV gasket maker for the oil pan part and putting a thick bead?
When I rotate the engine, to get it to TDC can I just tighten the harmonic balancer bolt till it stops and keep going to rotate the engine? I’ve heard something about an engine rotating backwards is bad. I’ve never rotated an engine by hand so I just want to make sure.
Don't even think about using a thick bead of RTV on the oil pan. When it is compressed from tightening the bolts it will squish out to the inside of the pan. That material will eventually come loose and get sucked into the oil pickup screen. Use the supplied gaskets only with a SMALL amount of sealer at the junction of the existing pan gasket and the rubber gasket up front.
I’m currently in the process of removing the timing cover. It’s so stuck on the bolt that broke off, I expected this how do I get it off? I’ve pried and hit it with a hammer it moved a bit, but it won’t move from the top of that bolt.