Couple of questions. First, where is the best place to buy a crate six? I have seen on Google a place called XP1 SP Precision, their prices seem really cheap. Too cheap… does anyone know if they stand behind their products, do they do quality work? A reputable company? Second question, is a “fuel injected” long block the same as a “carbureted” long block? I didn’t think that would make a difference on a long block, without tinware or manifolds. Thanks in advance.

 

Or are there no quality long blocks available? Would I be better off to have a 300 six rebuilt the right way, all quality components? And know that it was done right?

The engine will be going into a 1 ton feed truck

 

Re: "Crate" engine

Are you asking about a newly manufactured engine, usually a performance variant? That's what comes to mind with "crate". Or do you simply mean a remanufactured engine?

If the latter, when I replaced the 351W in my truck, I got a remanufactured engine from ATK via my local AutoZone. A YUGE plus with this route is the warranty. The first engine had a cam lobe fail within 30 minutes. Kind of a nightmare at first, but with some gentle persuasion I got a full replacement. Gory details here, including some important details about break-in oil:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...brication.html

One nice thing about a local purchase was shipping to the store was included in the price. I only had to make arrangements to pick it up there. I kept my core, but if I wanted to return it, I'd only be dropping it off locally. If you go with some distant facility, freight charges can be a big factor. You'd also have to be there to meet the delivery truck.

You may prefer to have a local shop rebuild your engine. Pros and cons to that, but if your existing block or head is cracked, that can get expensive fast. You still have to pay for inspection of the unusable parts, etc. When you purchase a fully remanufactured engine, any risk is already factored into the price.

Another thing to consider: If a local shop does the rebuild, get specific details about any warranty. If the shop only does the machine work and you do the assembly, it may be very difficult to get a claim resolved.

 

If you had a local engine rebuilder that you trusted or had a good reputation, that would be the best way to go. And if you had a engine that was worn, but nothing serious had happened to it. If you could get a junkyard engine that was running,, and get it rebuilt locally, that would be the second best way to go. Sorry, but point and click the mouse is not the best way to go when buying a rebuilt engine.

 

I would want the shop to do the machining, and then I would want to do the assembly because I don’t trust shops to seal up a motor properly.

Here’s the scoop on how I plan to do this now, since after researching most the afternoon, and input from you minty folks, I realize that a quality new motor is not available.

The plan involves 3 trucks.

The 1981 F350 feed truck: has a 400 V8 with a hole in the block bigger than your fist. I never liked that motor anyway, I think that the PO abused it

The 1989 F150: has a good 300 six in it, EFI though. This will provide the block, and other parts. The transmission (M5OD) case has been blown to bits, I haven’t investigated so I don’t know why, but it blew the gears out of the bottom of the transmission, let off the accelerator while going 80 on the interstate and then the transmission ejected. We never pulled a trailer with that truck, this is why Miata transmissions don’t belong in trucks.

The 1982 F250: Actually not my truck, but my buddy rebuilt it wrong and blew it up. It is sitting in a tree row, he got it for free and got 30,000 miles out of it, so he said that I could take any parts I wanted and then when I’m done to take it ti scrap. It has a carbureted 300, so it will just be for parts

I am planning on purchasing a new cam from Comp Cams, custom grind for torque at very low rpms.

I wish I could get my hands on a forged crankshaft that was in good shape…

All new pistons and rods.

New ARP fasteners on everything

New pushrods, rockers, lifters, valve springs and sodium filled valves.

EFI head from the 89, whatever machining the shop recommends.

HD exhaust manifold

New water pump, carburetor, etc

If any other parts are worn down, then they will be replaced as well.

I am aware of the cost of this. I also don’t give a ####, it will be cheaper than a new truck. Plus the transmission in the F350 feed truck that this motor will be going in is brand new.

Will be painted up real pretty too.

 

I would contact a local auto machine shop and see what they can do for you.

You may want to ask around the auto parts stores and see what auto machine shops they recommend.

If there's some large farms near you, ask the guys there if they know a good auto machine shop.

Where do you live, maybe one of knows your area.

The trusted mechanic put a crate motor in my truck back in 1991.

 

Will do on asking the guys at my local NAPA if they know of a good machine shop, those guys behind the parts counter in this Eastern Kansas town know their stuff and won’t lead you wrong. Thanks for the advice everyone.

BTW, I am using the bellhousing off the 1982 on the 1981, and a new clutch that way I can keep the new transmission

 

About 6 years ago I bought a long block from Powertrain Products.
I have 25kiles on it.. It came with a warranty but as a certified auto tech.. I don't feel warranties are worth the paper they are written on, so I started pulling it apart and doing an inspection on it.
I was very impressed.
I saved a bunch on shipping having it dropped at a business.
I would buy from them again.

 

Duly noted. Now the question is, which is better? The long block from Powertrain Products, or the complex rebuild parts piecing painful process I thought up this afternoon? I am thinking that the long block would actually be cheaper, tinware and manifolds aren’t that expensive, and if I go with a crate motor, I would want all tinware and manifolds, engine accessories etc to be brand new

But it would have fiber timing gears, instead of metal like I want. However, it would be very simple and inexpensive to just swap out the fiber gears on the long block for metal ones.

 

At least with the custom rebuild I know what I’ve got, and have it exactly how I want it.

On the flip side, the crate motor has a warranty and will still be a good little motor for my feed truck.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=4.9l...nt=products-cc

WOW, for that price, I'd check with a local machine shop and have my engine machined and rebuilt.

 

I checked with a machine shop and they told me the machining for the block and head would be at least $1200. That seems plenty high, for that price I am thinking that I might rather have a warranty. Probably what I will do is get parts out of the 89 and 82 to put on the 81. The 81 is in perfect condition, except for the motor. No rust, paint is only a couple of years old. A few dents, but it is a feed truck.

 

I trued posting pictures but it didn’t work…

 

FYI the EFI block dose not have a fuel pump opening but think the 2 bolt holes are drilled & taped.
If you are going to have it rebuilt have the shop open it up as part of the work.
OR
You can run electric fuel pump but you have to wire it for safety so if the motor is not running the pump will not run.

You can use the intake & carb from the 250 on the EFI head it will bolt on.
As for that HD exh manifold I would not use it but use the EFI manifolds & Y pipe and they flow better than the HD manifold will.
Also the HD manifold will blow hot exh gases on the floor of the intake manifold, not good for power and todays gas as it will boil.

The EFI manifolds do not heat the intake so in cold weather might be a little ruff running till up to temp but there is a fix.
Make a plate to fit the bottom of the manifold with 2 hose nipples and run hot water to it.

Also the factory carb has a hot air asst. choke but the EFI manifolds dont have a way to run the hot air thru the manifold.
There is a fix for this also. Get copper tubing that fits the choke housing and put 3 or 4 loops around the manifold and then wrap the copper & manifold with header wrap. Being next to the manifold it picks up the heat and the wrap keep it in.

That is the set up I have on my 81 F100 and it works great as I have had it out in 20*f temps with out issues.
This is as cold as it has gotten here when the truck was out and no issues when 95*f+ in the summer other than a hot start everyone has with todays gas blend.
I have not pulled my car trailer yet but was built to be a back up to do so.
Dave ----

 

Being a feed truck, it sees use mostly in the winter, and only a bit less in the summer. I need this rig to be able to start in -40… something my IDI can’t do, and something the 400 V8 was actually pretty good at… never could figure out why. Of course, it ran a bit rough until it warmed up a bit, but it would idle as soon as it started up.

I plan to do an electric fuel pump.