Boys and Girls,

Engine 2.0 (351W) for my truck showed up yesterday, about a week early. It's now sitting safely on a stand in my garage, soon to be ready for installation. You can read the sordid tale of Engine 1.0 here, which ran beautifully for all of 30 minutes before a cam lobe wiped:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...diagnosis.html

Much to the credit of Autozone and ATK Engines, they gave me a warranty replacement. I've been reading up on flat tappet cam break-in procedures, as I obviously don't want a repeat. I gingerly asked their warranty rep if he had a specific break-in procedure, but I have not heard back yet. I didn't want to go too in-depth with him and make him question his previous decision to honor the warranty.

The oil I used was API rating SN, which according to many sources is far from optimal for breaking in a flat tappet cam:

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/cc...reak-in-guide/

https://www.melling.com/wp-content/u...Rev4-12-07.pdf

https://www.compcams.com/pub/media/w...chBulletin.pdf


I did do the parts about pre-lubing, immediate start, running at 2000-2500 RPM for the first 30 minutes. I could see some purple lube on the camshaft, so assumed (Danger! Danger!) that was special cam lube. The only problem was I ran regular modern oil. not a special break-in oil or additive. All was fine until the first test drive...

My plan is to rotate the engine upside down on the stand, and use a syringe and hose to flood the cam lobes with Comp Cams #153 lube:

https://www.compcams.com/cam-lifter-...oz-bottle.html


For the break-in period, I will be using Comp Cams #1590 break-in oil:

https://www.compcams.com/engine-brea...12-quarts.html


I haven't quite figured out what oil to use after the break-in.

Any thoughts on the whole plan of attack? I want to make sure I do this right. I figure if I wipe another cam, the warranty guy won't even return my calls.

 

my 2 cents after you get it broke in, run a good conventional oil for the next 3k miles.
I dont believe manufacturers like a synthetic ran right off the bat. A conventional will allow the break in to continue, which needs done even after initial break in. I'd probably look at the valvoline Vr series for the conventional oil
than use mobil 5w40 turbo diesel.
it has the right amount of zddp our engines need.
I just did a UOA on it, still plenty of zddp.
if you dont want to spend the extra on Mobil, amsoil 5w40 diesel was cheaper last time I bought oil.
No matter what you decide on, check the spec sheet to make sure the current formulation is what you need/want.

 

You should run a Fossell based oil about straight 30W for breaking in a newly built engine. I would hope the
engine builder put the proper lube on the camshaft and on the lifers. It would also be good to pre lube the
engine immediately before starting it up.I would also pour a bottle of ZDDP in the oil also.

 

Heard back from the warranty rep. He sent me this installer's guide, which I already had:

https://mycarcare.com/engine-installers-guide/

Curiously, it says nothing about any special grade of oil or additive for break-in. I do not plan to pursue this any further with him. I wish the guide has specified the oil to use, to have saved me some grief.

 

That's what I did last time, and plan to do again.


The break-in oil I will be using (Comp Cam 1590) is already fortified with ZDDP. They sell an additive you can mix with any oil to bring up the ZDDP levels, but I figure a pre-mixed blend is probably better.

 

I think you did it right the first time and the cam was defective. I bet it will work just fine this time. Don’t over-think it. However, I understand your trepidation.
Good luck

 

Sorry to hear about the cam Karl. I think your plan for round 2 is solid, special cam lube and zinc additive for the oil. Unfortunately parts / metal quality can be a real issue for flat tappets in today’s roller lifter world. I just saw this video the other evening, lots of comments about parts qualify in the comments section.

 

An important skill in today's world is the ability to BlameShift™ whenever there's a problem. From years in the workforce of corporate America, I've learned the most important factor with blame is Time in Possession (TIP), a key metric. In this situation, I am able to BlameShift™ this whole mess on the engine rebuilder, for providing generic break-in procedures.

 

Some break in tips from ATK

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2014/...-break-engine/

 

We use Shell Rotella T5 10w30 Diesel oil in our 351W, it has ~1200 ppm Zinc, whereas newer gasoline engine oils have around 600-800 ppm Zinc. The T4 version is dino oil, T5 is synthetic blend, and T6 is full synthetic.

We used Lucas break in oil, and comp cams assembly lube for the cam break in. 5k miles later, still running strong.

Be wary of oil additives like STP, they actually lower the Zinc content!

 

Im only going to say one thing here. Something that I believe to be truth.

ZINC IS A MYTH!

I've built A few older engines and swapped several flat cams in different things. There are only 2 things I do.
1- spray the new cam up & down with dry graphite lube. Lifter feet as well.
2- run it.

I've ran my 351 over 100k on standard oil. No issue....

 

IIRC, you had a collapsed lifter which likely precipitated the damage. They do that from time to time. There's not much can be done if you get a bad one.

 

I’m surprised the builder that Autozone uses doesn’t break in the engines before they are sold to avoid customers not breaking them in properly. But, I guess that’s how they pass the liability on to someone else. How much did you pay for the engine through autozone, including tax ?

 

Good point. I’m surprised they don’t do this either.

 

Why did roller cams get installed around the same time that zinc was removed from motor oils? Ford went to all that trouble just for 2 years of sales I believe.