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We’re trying to reinstall a 460 that we pulled to rebuild. We left the E4od in the truck and are having trouble getting everything lined up. Would it be better to pull the motor and trans, bolt them together and install everything together? Or can we actually do it the way we are trying? Thanks
I have done it both ways but most were done the way you are doing it.
You need a floor jack under the transmission to raise & lower as needed to line up.
Also having a tilter on the motor helps too.
Raise the trans up and tilt the rear of the motor down should drop right in.
Dave ----
So what is the easiest way to line up the torque converter studs? We had the motor and transmission lines up at one point, but the convert bolts were binding on the flex plate.
Did you pull the converter out of the trans?
I thought if the converter was in all the way the motor could be bolted up and then turn the converter to line up the studs to the holes and pull it forward.
Other wise ....
Is there a drain plug on the converter? If so you need to get that close to the hole in the flex plate.
If not line up the studs as close as you can to the holes before dropping it in.
Then when motor & trans are close recheck and adjust before joining the 2.
I didn’t actually pull the converter out, but maybe it came out a little when we pulled the motor. I was under the assumption that you could spin the converter as well, but I thought I read somewhere that on a big block Ford the studs had to be lined up first. I will see if the converter is seated all the way and go from there.
The only time I know the converter studs only fit the flex plate one way is if the converter is balance and not the flex plate.
I dont think Ford did this on any of their motors but not 100% sure on that.
I am pretty sure MOPAR older motors had the converters balance not the flex plates.
I guess you could measure between all the studs and all the holes in the flex plate to see if they are even between them all?
Last motor / auto I did was my drag car over 15 years now.
Dave ----
When the converter is all the way in there it is so close to the inside of the housing you cannot get your fingers around the back side of the converter. Also, are you using the original crankshaft? After the engine and transmission are bolted together there is usually 1/8” clearance between the flywheel and the converter before pulling them together with the nuts.
As said, using guide pins is also a good idea.
I sometimes use (2 or more) bolts that have been cut off and a screwdriver slot cut in them
They act as lineup studs, and can be removed later
Get a few longer bellhousing bolts to help you
I mated a 460 to my C6 (460 came from an E4OD) truck. The dowels landed before the converter studs did. I have a tilter and also had to make a spreader bar to give the rigging enough axial clearance between it and the firewall to get the engine and trans at the same angles and elevations. Not sure of any secret sauce besides persistence. I did use two bellhousing bolts to help pull them together after the dowels were started and studs lined up.