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My 1983 F250 4.9L I6 currently doesn't run, I just rebuilt the carburetor and put a new alternator on it. The battery is fairly new, within the past 6 months. My issue is that I can get maybe one good attempt at starting the truck before the battery doesn't seem to want to crank anymore. If I go more than once, it starts to try and crank really slowly like the battery is already dying. Is there something draining power?
Is something draining your battery? Could be, but charge it first and see how the starter system behaves. The problem could be as simple as the battery being partially discharged from 6 months of inactivity.
I've charged the battery and even put it on high/Jumpstart mode to try and give me more than one try to crank it over. I just dont know why it lugs after only one crank of 3-4 seconds.
I've charged the battery and even put it on high/Jumpstart mode to try and give me more than one try to crank it over. I just dont know why it lugs after only one crank of 3-4 seconds.
Do the test linked in my previous message. It will pinpoint the root cause. This procedure was written for your exact situation. The test checks two vital things:
1) The battery can supply adequate voltage under the load of the starter.
2) The rest of the starter system (cables, starter relay, and all connections) can handle this massive flow of electrons without undue restriction.
Unless you have a maintenance free sealed battery before charging your battery check the electrolyte level in the cells and make sure the level is up to the bottom of the fill tube. When at the proper level the electrolyte surface goes convex as surface tension forms just inside the tube. Do not overfill. Always use distilled water to top off batteries. If left low capacitance will be reduced and sulfates can build up on the plates further degrading the capacitance of the battery.
A properly charged battery will hold 12.6 volts after standing overnight.
Could just be a bad ground between the starter and the battery.
Hook a jumper cable on the housing of the starter and the other end on the negative post of the battery.
Any difference ?
Do the test Karl posted of as it will tell you where the issue is.
FYI most trucks with a 300 six has the NEG battery cable from the battery down to the frame rail then on to the top bolt of the starter.
The factory cable has a tab that is used to bolt to the frame rail then down to the starter bolt,
Most use 2 cables to make this run.
The POS battery cable runs to the solenoid out of the solenoid to the starter.
As a side note there should be heavy gauge wire from the left side of the motor to the firewall to ground the body.
There is also a braided cable from firewall to hood.
The solenoid also needs to be grounded good to the fender too.
Dave ----
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