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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 12:48 PM
  #1  
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battery drain

My 1992 aerostar has a bad battery drain on it
From full charge the battery is down in less than two days
with ground wire off of battery I put a test light between battery ground and engine ground and the test light is about half bright of normal./
Have checked all of relays by unplugging one at a time and have also removed each fuse one at a time with no change.
Doesn't have power locks or power windows.
schroder
 
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 01:07 PM
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Mine had bad diodes in new alternator that allowed current to flow through unit discharging battery. If that is happening to you, the alternator will be hot (very warm) when engine is cold.

Ken
 
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 01:41 PM
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Does it drain with the battery cables removed from the battery? Maybe you have an internal problem.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 01:57 PM
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battery drain

No battery stays up fine if i remove it from the cables in fact it is a new battery
and the one I took out is now in my pickup and doen't drain down in it so
It has to be something in the wiring.
Also on the other guys comment I removed the wires from the alternator and let it set a couple days and was down again.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 03:18 PM
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Mine is a 96 cargo version, it was doing the same thing. In my case some "courtesy light" relay was causing the problem. I found it by hooking up an amp meter with the car off of course then pulling fuses until the draw went away. Why I pulled one fuse I could hear a "click" in the back of the van. I had my wife listen to find where the click was coming from, it was a relay by the back doors (mine has split rear swinging doors). I pulled that relay and it solved the problem. I think it went to a dome light in the back. Probably was caused by a door sensor or something.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 04:10 PM
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battery drain

Originally Posted by ___
Mine is a 96 cargo version, it was doing the same thing. In my case some "courtesy light" relay was causing the problem. I found it by hooking up an amp meter with the car off of course then pulling fuses until the draw went away. Why I pulled one fuse I could hear a "click" in the back of the van. I had my wife listen to find where the click was coming from, it was a relay by the back doors (mine has split rear swinging doors). I pulled that relay and it solved the problem. I think it went to a dome light in the back. Probably was caused by a door sensor or something.
Mine has the double doors in the back and a light back there and I can hear that relay clicking but when I unplug it I then hear a relay clicking under the dash in the radio area
 
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 07:04 PM
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Leave that relay unhooked in the back and see if it solves your problem like it did for me. Is yours a cargo van or a passenger van?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 07:17 PM
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there are as many as 7 color coded inline fuse links feeding 12v off the main batt. feed on the starter relay post on the driver side fender wall....
remove all 7 and jump from battery to each one in turn until you get same current draw brightness on your light tester then report back color of fuse line, we can tell u which circuit if you cannot locate

Ford Service Cd with wiring diagrams click
use Ford Truck .iso for your year
 
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 04:34 AM
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Try to disconnect alternator only (both the connectors....). There are 2 versions!
1st: one ore more diodes are defective....
2nd: when ingniton is off, there is voltage on rotor bushes....

Good Luck!
 
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
there are as many as 7 color coded inline fuse links feeding 12v off the main batt. feed on the starter relay post on the driver side fender wall....
remove all 7 and jump from battery to each one in turn until you get same current draw brightness on your light tester then report back color of fuse line, we can tell u which circuit if you cannot locate

Ford Service Cd with wiring diagrams click
use Ford Truck .iso for your year
The one that is drawing the current is yellow and it is hooked to a blue which I beleive is the ignition and then there are also two black wires hooked to it.
 

Last edited by Schroder; Aug 19, 2006 at 03:41 PM. Reason: misspelled word
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 09:16 PM
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my EVTM/s 93>97 do not show any Yellow fusible link so this must be a dealer or owner addon circuit unless it is a special cargo version circuit

the Blue fuse links feed 1. J fuse link > pin 1 on ECU
2. E fuse link feeds the switched 12v circuit of the PCM pwr relay and the Fuel pump relay

Autozone wiring diags.(click) also do not show a Yellow fusible link

try unplugging your ECU main plug and see if batt still drains down....your ECU may have an internal short
the ECU does draw a very small amount of current <100ma and will drain the battery down to no start in a couple months of setting
 
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 09:20 PM
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edited out...somehow server posted to wrong location
 

Last edited by 96_4wdr; Aug 19, 2006 at 09:26 PM.
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
my EVTM/s 93>97 do not show any Yellow fusible link so this must be a dealer or owner addon circuit unless it is a special cargo version circuit

the Blue fuse links feed 1. J fuse link > pin 1 on ECU
2. E fuse link feeds the switched 12v circuit of the PCM pwr relay and the Fuel pump relay

Autozone wiring diags.(click) also do not show a Yellow fusible link

try unplugging your ECU main plug and see if batt still drains down....your ECU may have an internal short
the ECU does draw a very small amount of current <100ma and will drain the battery down to no start in a couple months of setting
I am not a machanic is the ECU same as EEC?
 
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 10:52 AM
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Hi Shroder:

A belated welcome to our FTE forum.

The ECU or PCM are sometimes used interchangeably. It's just the engine computer.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by copper_90680
Hi Shroder:

A belated welcome to our FTE forum.

The ECU or PCM are sometimes used interchangeably. It's just the engine computer.

Thank you

I thought that was the computer but wanted to make sure.

schroder
 
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