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The truck in question is my grandpas 02 7.3L with 133k mi. It stalled on the hwy this morning and he had it towed to the nearest dealer - Chrysler *face palm* - Good Sam refused to tow it free of charge anywhere else. Mechanic called and said it fired right up and thought it was the fuel pump. That's when I went to go get it and drive it home. It stalled again 20min later. Crank-no start even with icp unplugged. An hour later, it started and I got it the rest of the way home. I'm leaning towards ipr since unplugging icp made no difference, despite oil being in the icp. There's slight oil in all 3 7.3s in my driveway currently actually when curiosity intrigued me to compare. I replaced the one in the F350 not that long ago so I'm not convinced the icp is causing the stalling and failure to start when warm, despite its presence. Although, the 02 may have had a little more oil in there than the other two. I monitored Torque Pro on the way home, IPR was below 35% or near at WOT on the hwy. Icp at idle is 500 and near 2300 when on the go-pedal. Start up, icp goes to 2300 and ipr 34% then both drop to 500 and 8.5%, respectively. I've read through a number of threads to get to this point, but just want to get the brotherhood's blessing on what seems to be at fault here before taking a stab at the ipr.
I had my ipr fail one time like thst. The magnet part of it was messing up when it got got. Would die running down interstate. Cooled off would run for 10-15 more kins and die again. New ipr fixed it right up. Next time it does it try cooling the magnet part off with some water and see if it will fire back up sooner. Also only use a Motorcraft ipr valve.
Thanks for sharing your similar experience. I was debating if rebuilding the ipr would be the wisest move, but if it's the solenoid magnet, a new IPR will be on order from dieselorings.com ASAP. This will be 3 separare purchases in 3 days. These things just couldn't all happen at once to minimize shipping costs for me, could they?!? Thank you again!
I just went down a similar path. The first thing I'd do (as it's infinitely easier than changing the IPR) is change the CPS. If that doesn't do it, (and you've tried unplugging the ICP) go for the IPR.
Could you try rebuilding the IPR? (I do see you have a new one in route) Yes. But my time is worth more than pulling the IPR, taking it apart, new o-rings...putting it back in and not having that be the solution.
My local Ford dealer price matched the new IPR and will have for me in the morning. Was it CPS for you? I do have a good CPS in the glovebox of my F350 and thought about it, but after reading the forum threads, not much was pointing me this direction and to trial and error it, I may be stranded 20min away from home. Maybe could try the water cool down method Tpayne suggested if this is strongly recommended.
My local Ford dealer price matched the new IPR and will have for me in the morning. Was it CPS for you? I do have a good CPS in the glovebox of my F350 and thought about it, but after reading the forum threads, not much was pointing me this direction and to trial and error it, I may be stranded 20min away from home. Maybe could try the water cool down method Tpayne suggested if this is strongly recommended.
Cool water on the IPR coil is a good method of identifying if the coil has failed. Another good method is a can of compressed air turned upside down to "freeze" the coil. I carry a can of compressed air in my "now what" kit under the back seat of the truck. Although, if the IPR is failing mechanically, this test will not do much. That is not the normal failure mode of the IPR though.
My local Ford dealer price matched the new IPR and will have for me in the morning. Was it CPS for you? I do have a good CPS in the glovebox of my F350 and thought about it, but after reading the forum threads, not much was pointing me this direction and to trial and error it, I may be stranded 20min away from home. Maybe could try the water cool down method Tpayne suggested if this is strongly recommended.
For mine...it was the IPR.
I keep the tools and a spare CPS in the truck....I can change one of them in 5 minutes.
Have you thoroughly inspected the IPR connector and and pigtail already? The wire insulation can start getting soft and gooey after all these years causing a short.
I learned early on from the best at FTE. I'd like to think I've been spared the agony by those who paved the way prior to my ownership.
Originally Posted by Dan V
For mine...it was the IPR. I keep the tools and a spare CPS in the truck....I can change one of them in 5 minutes.
I've changed 2 in years past as the first line of trouble shooting separate issues without resolution. I know it gets frequently blamed and often is a culprit of an array of symptoms and my prior failed experience may have left me deceitfully trusting of it this go-around. Thanks Dan for sharing your experience and suggesting I take the easier and cheaper route first. You can be first in line to tell me "I told you so" if it comes to it. The new ipr is in and it idled without a hiccup as I cleaned up. The true test will have to wait for tomorrow when I can take it 20-30min away from home.
Originally Posted by udsuth78
Have you thoroughly inspected the IPR connector and and pigtail already? The wire insulation can start getting soft and gooey after all these years causing a short.
Yessir. I saw this was another frequent advisory for the symptoms I was having, but all looked good.
I would never go with the "I told you so."...I swapped mine to no avail, but it was worth a shot. Glad to see you have some resolution. What did you use for a socket on the IPR?
This was a trial-and-error adventure. I saw a post saying the NAPA 29mm axle nut socket fit. I must've gotten a different one because the one I got was too short as was all the other 29mm and 1-1/8 sockets my local napa had. The guy at the counter said all deep well sockets are going to be the same length when I asked to see another behind the counter. I gave up on NAPA and I saw a review for the one O'Reilly's had working for a 7.3L diesel. I assumed the IPR and bought it. I can confirm this one fits beautifully: Part # W80548.
If anyone reads this in the future, Bob's instructions for torquing the tin nut specifies in-lbs, not ft-lbs. I questioned it being higher than the ipr to hpop torque, being just a tin nut but dismissed all rationale with 'no, Bob would know.' Well, yes Bob does know... it was I who don't know - how to read. I finally came to my senses and reread his instructions before wrenching on, anticipating the click.
There is definitely a difference between an axle nut socket and a deep well socket. Unless a special IPR removal tool is built, made or bought, an axle nut socket in the appropriate size as Cousin Carl provided will work. I have a 3D printed IPR wrench that may or may not work, but I also have the same socket that was pictured above.
It is a bit cheaper on Amazoo for anyone interested in picking one up before it is needed.
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