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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

oil pressure

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Old Mar 14, 2023 | 08:19 PM
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ahdmeyer
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oil pressure

i had a oil pressure guage that someone broke off the connection. bought a new one but now the guage stays pegged at near 80 . got the sender removed but now sure if it is normally open or normally closed. it shows continuity from the case to the pin. did not try to blow air thru to see if it opens or not. does anyone know if it is normal open or normal closed?

thanks again
al
 
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Old Mar 14, 2023 | 08:43 PM
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What truck, series, model, and year? Stock or after market cluster and sending units? Electrical or mechanical?

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Old Mar 14, 2023 | 08:54 PM
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sorry for not listing it all. 1951 ford f3 in line 226 stock guages, new oil pressure guage. 1 wire oil sender unit.
thx
al
 
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Old Mar 14, 2023 | 09:33 PM
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The new oil pressure gauge MUST be of the King-Sealy type to work with the stock gauge. Can you please provide the exact source and part number of your new sender unit so we can verify it is of the proper type?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2023 | 09:48 PM
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i do not have the new one yet, i wanted to make sure the old one is no longer working. when i put a continuity tester from the wire to the guage and the case of the sender it shows continuity. that is why i wondered if it is normal closed. dennis carpenter has the one i need according to his web page. here is the one Oil Pressure Sending Unit 80 lb. - Replacement for 1935-53 Ford Trucks and Cars | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restorations (dennis-carpenter.com)
thx al
 
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Old Mar 14, 2023 | 09:59 PM
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Your replacement sender is seemingly of excellent choice.

There is no real way to test the sending unit itself. Its construction would be expected to show continuity indicating the heating element is likely intact or directly shorted, but that is not a valid test for full function. This is not an on/off type switch. as would be common with low oil pressure warning lights. Nor is resistance a good measure for full function. The service manual outlines a process of testing the gauge, and once the gauge is known to be good, use the sender with that known good gauge to determine the functionality of the sending unit and replace as necessary. At this point, with a new sender on the way, I wouldn't go through that trouble unless the new sender acted similarly once it arrives and is installed.

Lastly, I want to double check that 12V isn't involved as that can damage these things.
 
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