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So some of you know I’m replacing my Ford 4.9 L in my 1980 F 100 with a new motor from Jasper or actually a rebuilt motor. I pulled the intake and exhaust manifolds off to have the milled and I bent the crap out of the EGR tube. I’m actually surprised there still wasn’t EGR tube. Do they make a spacer to replace that EGR plate and can I just plug the EGR tube on the exhaust manifold. the truck has no emissions anymore and thankfully New York State doesn’t test for omissions on 1980 trucks. It seems to be a waste of money to buy a new EGR tube if I can just find a spacer plate. Any ideas
Do they make a spacer to replace that EGR plate and can I just plug the EGR tube on the exhaust manifold. the truck has no emissions anymore and thankfully New York State doesn’t test for omissions on 1980 trucks. It seems to be a waste of money to buy a new EGR tube if I can just find a spacer plate. Any ideas
The Non-EGR 4.9 trucks came with a spacer instead of the EGR valve assembly. They were really common on Canadian trucks as our emission laws were much weaker than the US at the time. Here's what the factory spacer looked like on the '86 4.9 that I installed in my old 1980. It had a little ear, or tab, at the front to cover the EGR hole. I think they're kind of hard to find these days though.
There used to be block-off plates available for the factory EGR valve. I see Stinger still has them available. That's probably the quickest and easiest solution.
For now I guess I’m just going to plug the two EGR ports and leave the crappy looking spacer cream puffs, not a trailer queen, so I guess it doesn’t matter
Going thru my pictures on the EXH side I am running EFI manifolds and used a normal pipe plug maybe 3/4"?
On the EGR side I left the valve on the plate because I did not know if I had to take the truck thru inspection to get plates.
Because of that it looks like it would work if I was to run a vacuum line to it. It still would not work as I have a small freeze plug in the intake manifold.
Now others have cut the valve thing off and filled the hole with JB Weld to finish it off, you could do that to make it look better if oyu want.
Dave ----
If you want to run the EGR, the minimum to make it work is a ported vacuum, one that does not have vacuum at idle, and this must run through the valve that screws into the coolant so the EGR does not work when the engine is cold.
The engine is tuned for the EGR. Sometimes you can take it off and everything will be fine. Other times you might get some pinging out of the engine on a hot day. Each engine is a little different. You can deal with the pinging if it crops up.
If you want to run the EGR, the minimum to make it work is a ported vacuum, one that does not have vacuum at idle, and this must run through the valve that screws into the coolant so the EGR does not work when the engine is cold.
The engine is tuned for the EGR. Sometimes you can take it off and everything will be fine. Other times you might get some pinging out of the engine on a hot day. Each engine is a little different. You can deal with the pinging if it crops up.
True as I dont run EGR and I had some bad pinging.
I have played with timing and adjusted most of it out but still have a little I am still dealing with.
Dave ----
True as I dont run EGR and I had some bad pinging.
I have played with timing and adjusted most of it out but still have a little I am still dealing with.
Dave ----
I did a lot of experimenting on a 351w I had, and what finally got rid of all the pinging was changing to a 180 degree thermostat. But each engine is different.
Well the way the 300 stat housing likes to crack, mine was bad when I took it apart to install a 192 stat, I dont want to mess with it if I dont I have to.
The other thing is I was getting "milk shake" on the under side of the oil fill cap and the inside of the oil dip stick tube.
I dont want to run the motor too cool that it will not boil off the milk shake.
Could add water injection as I hear that helps.
Dave ----
The Non-EGR 4.9 trucks came with a spacer instead of the EGR valve assembly. They were really common on Canadian trucks as our emission laws were much weaker than the US at the time. Here's what the factory spacer looked like on the '86 4.9 that I installed in my old 1980. It had a little ear, or tab, at the front to cover the EGR hole. I think they're kind of hard to find these days though.
I wish l could have found one of those... "kind of hard to find" is an understement.
Not quite understanding the system, l just started hacking my EGR setup apart to make a carb spacer... Still in tact.
Carb pad you're left with. That little hole out front is going to cause me some trouble...
First cut(s). Ain't no going back now.
Shaped with a grinder. The big hole got filled with high-temp epoxy and JB Weld. I painted it black because, well... l had some black paint and a thing that wasn't painted black yet. No choice, really.
This is where l ended up.
The little (.597", IIRC) exhaust port has a steel slug (actually, a punch-out from a gang box when l did some electrical work around the house) epoxy-d' over the top... it failed pretty quickly.
Now it has a "basket" of stainless steel mesh stuffed into it and filled with more of the hi-temp JB Weld and it's holding together. When l have the intake off, I'll have it tapped for a pipe plug... l just don't have a tap that big.
Was it worth the extra hassle over just buying a blockoff plate for the EGR? Not really. It's cleaner and looks better, but that little high-riding 1bbl still looks kinda silly w the air cleaner off. No matter, it's done now and there ain't no turning back.
They make a freeze plug that size you can drive in the hole no need to thread it and the fine a plug to screw it.
Dave ----
l remember you writing that (this thread or maybe another one)... that fix would be just as clean and considerably cheaper.
I'm going to bead blast the intake and the EFI manifolds before installation so that'll be a good time to redo it and make the heater plate for the bottom of the intake.
So I just put in my rebuilt 300 6 in my 1980 F100. There are no emissions left on the motor. When I pulled the engine apart I removed and plugged the EGR tube from the exhaust manifold to the EGR plate. The engine runs great except at idle. The engine shakes like crazy to the point if you drive in 3rd at 1000 rpm the truck bucks.
It could be my rebuilt carb I put on in July is already shot. Or my question is could the truck need the pressure from the Manifold to the EGR plate to even out the carb? the truck has no computer it’s bare bones. I replaced everything in the ignition system with stock parts.
