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The wire simply passes through. This works because the current going through the wire induces a voltage in the encircling ring that then is used to move the amp gauge needle.
ummm,
not "voltage",
CURRENT creates Magnetism, which causes the magnetic needle to move to indicate how many amps are being drawn.
ummm,
not "voltage",
CURRENT creates Magnetism, which causes the magnetic needle to move to indicate how many amps are being drawn.
the physics is called "hall effect"
If there is no voltage, there is no current. If there is no current, there is no voltage.
The Hall effect can be defined as the production of a potential difference (aka Hall voltage) across a conductor that is subject to an electric current within itself conductor and to a perpendicular magnetic field. It is all pedantics for the intents here.
You could bend and flare your own with standard fittings and CuNi line, but you still need a flex line at the firewall as the engine will move independent of the frame. I have used brass barbs and flex line between the fuel pump and carburetor on some engines.
@Dturk , if you have an original gauge, you use the original style sender with proper voltage reducers. I believe any single post 1928 through 1955 Ford temperature sender is electrically compatible. You may need to use brass adapters for it to fit the 302.