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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Mar 30, 2023 | 04:28 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by bmoran4
The wire simply passes through. This works because the current going through the wire induces a voltage in the encircling ring that then is used to move the amp gauge needle.
ummm,
not "voltage",
CURRENT creates Magnetism, which causes the magnetic needle to move to indicate how many amps are being drawn.

the physics is called "hall effect"
 
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Old Mar 30, 2023 | 05:01 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by John in OkieLand
ummm,
not "voltage",
CURRENT creates Magnetism, which causes the magnetic needle to move to indicate how many amps are being drawn.

the physics is called "hall effect"
If there is no voltage, there is no current. If there is no current, there is no voltage.

The Hall effect can be defined as the production of a potential difference (aka Hall voltage) across a conductor that is subject to an electric current within itself conductor and to a perpendicular magnetic field. It is all pedantics for the intents here.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2023 | 05:24 PM
  #18  
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that is a bit over the top,.

it has to be assumed, that IF there is current being drawn, that the needle will move relative to the amps drawn.

there will be Voltage Present IF the amp gauge is wired thru the key switch, which as I recall, my old '49 Plymouth was.

but, if no lights are on, and the generator is not turning, there will be no Amps drawn to cause that needle to move.

I never did like Amp gauges, totally frickin useless for the most part.
gives no clue as to what the battery condition is.

negative indication? current being drawn battery, engine off or generator is not producing any output.

Zero? and running down the road?
generator must be keeping up with the current need to run the spark plugs and lights.

Positive? must be charging the battery, but what is the voltage?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2023 | 08:44 AM
  #19  
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Anyone have suggestions on fuel lines, need from tank to engine then to fuel pump
should I try to bend copper or use rubber??
thanks
 
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Old Apr 15, 2023 | 08:55 AM
  #20  
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Specialty vendors have everything you need with pre-bent steel lines, the stock style flexible lines, and fittings (7C-9282, 7HC-9288-A, 8BA-9369-A): https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/pro...F1&q=fuel+line

You could bend and flare your own with standard fittings and CuNi line, but you still need a flex line at the firewall as the engine will move independent of the frame. I have used brass barbs and flex line between the fuel pump and carburetor on some engines.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2023 | 07:09 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by gogoat
I have a 302/AOD with original gauges using correct senders, converted to 12 V neg ground with voltage reducer.
Would you list the info on the correct correct senders for the 302 (12v), or PM me with the info? Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 16, 2023 | 07:53 AM
  #22  
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@Dturk , if you have an original gauge, you use the original style sender with proper voltage reducers. I believe any single post 1928 through 1955 Ford temperature sender is electrically compatible. You may need to use brass adapters for it to fit the 302.
 
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