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So I've owned my E99 F350 7.3 for about five years now. It has 223K on it and is a automatic. Only things done to the truck are straight pipe exhaust, intake and TS 6 position chip. Truck does fine with hauling dump trailers, dirt bike's, travel trailer etc., but I would definitely like some more power. We have recently moved to Idaho and purchased a 38ft Toy hauler. I've just recently retired from Law Enforcement and as a present to myself id like to build my E99. I've weighed the option of selling it and buying a new 6.7 but I love my E99 and it has never let me down.
So I am in need of some advise. I want my truck to have more than enough power but still keep its reliability factor. I do know the E99's have some different motor components that are smaller than the L99's (Y pipe/turbo ect). So I'm thinking bigger injectors/HPOP, bigger turbo, lift pump, build the trans, 4 inch turbo back exhaust and a Hydra tuner. - Would I need to upgrade anything else to make these mods happen?
Anyone have an opinion on what I should do for this build? Brands, sizes of parts and anything else anyone could think of that would need to be replaced in order to complete it would be much appreciated!!!
I'd say a set of 160/30 injectors. From a good company like rosewood diesel or cnc fab. Not full force diesel. Kc stage 1 drop in turbo. Cnc fab hpop. Hydra tuner with tuning for the injectors. Also replace up pipes and hpop lines while your doing the work. Not much help on automatic transmission upgrades since mines a manual trans.
So I am in need of some advise. I want my truck to have more than enough power but still keep its reliability factor. I do know the E99's have some different motor components that are smaller than the L99's (Y pipe/turbo ect). So I'm thinking bigger injectors/HPOP, bigger turbo, lift pump, build the trans, 4 inch turbo back exhaust and a Hydra tuner. - Would I need to upgrade anything else to make these mods happen?
Anyone have an opinion on what I should do for this build? Brands, sizes of parts and anything else anyone could think of that would need to be replaced in order to complete it would be much appreciated!!!
Thanks for the info I really appreciate it! So for budget I've set aside about $10k. Not sure if I want to throw all of it at the truck but I'm thinking I will have to if I want to include building the trans.
We have several FTE'rs in the ID area and that is my stomping ground every other year or so. We have family in Challis, Boise, Orofino and Lewiston. So, we get around the state quite well. When we head out that way, we tend to bring our camper, which is currently a 5th wheel.
As for the upgrades you may want and need. A lot will recommend injectors, but I say get the other parts sorted out and see if injectors are needed. I have 260,000 miles on my OEM injectors and HPOP and haul up a grade at 9,000' elevation quite well. Although, I have an upgraded turbo. I was dead set on bigger injectors, but if/when my OEM injectors need to be replaced, I will be going for stock replacements.
I would start with bellowed up-pipes and a stage 1 KC turbo if you are looking for drop in. You will be limited to getting E99 specific hard parts, unless you are looking to replace the turbo pedestal and the plenum covers as well. Add boots to the list and a Hydra and you are well on your way to having a good running truck for a couple thousand dollars. Then, if you feel the need to go with bigger injectors, the updated turbo will do just fine with them.
I went with a T4 kit and a Borg Warner 363/68/.91 turbo and that is what the KC Turbo stage 1 is designed after, but it is a drop in. I have pulled all of the big grades out your way like Vale, Eisenhower, Raton, Teton and all over through CO, WY, MT, ID, WA, etc. I can tell you without a doubt a well running turbo with good exhaust drive pressure and free flowing intake will make your life a lot easier.
Starting taking some notes, do a lot of reading, set a course of action and proceed with it. If you keep the power gains modest and simply make the truck more efficient, that may delay the high cost of a transmission overhaul or replacement.
Thanks for the info I really appreciate it! So for budget I've set aside about $10k. Not sure if I want to throw all of it at the truck but I'm thinking I will have to if I want to include building the trans.
I appreciate the info, especially from someone whos pulled the ID area. So I bought my truck with 179k on it and its unknown if injectors have ever been replaced. I do know the E99 injectors are different from the later models. If I don't upgrade injectors do you think I will have have the same results as you, as far as performance when towing, due to my OEM injectors being different?
If you have Forscan then hook it up, take if for a drive, and monitor engine functions to determine the health of your HPOP as you more than likely don't need one. If not, that will let you put money elsewhere...like the turbo and intake...for now. I also agree with keeping the stock injectors for now if everything seems okay with them...maybe just shim the armatures, replace the glow plugs, and address the UVC wiring harnesses. This leaves you with the transmission that we all know is the week link when towing...and will suffer when you start adding more power. Find someone familiar with the 4R100 and talk to them about a rebuild with sprags, Transco Tugger kit, billet triple disc torque converter with upgraded bearings, 6.0L transmission cooler, etc. Since you have an early 99 you probably don't have the oil to water cooler in the bottom of your radiator and you really need one which goes prior to the air to water 6.0L transmission cooler. I didn't have that in my 00 truck, but installed it when I replaced the radiator with an all aluminum unit. Look at the bottom of your radiator under the truck and see if there's 2 steel transmission lines that attach at either side of the radiator. If not, I'll dig out the picture of fittings I researched and bought to accomplish this easily...but you might have to buy a new radiator that has the oil to water cooler...
From my experience, nothing you do is going to make your 7.3L happy trying to pull a toy hauler. It's going to get hot (EGT-wise), it's not going to get out of its own way (4 speed auto), and more power is just going to exacerbate any shortcomings. The hills in Idaho will bring it to its knees no matter what you do to it.
From my experience, nothing you do is going to make your 7.3L happy trying to pull a toy hauler. It's going to get hot (EGT-wise), it's not going to get out of its own way (4 speed auto), and more power is just going to exacerbate any shortcomings. The hills in Idaho will bring it to its knees no matter what you do to it.
This and stock injectors/HP will have the most engine longevity. If you decide to stay with a stock injector we could build you AD/AE injectors or AD/AE with a 30% nozzle (+25HP) (AD/AE = 10cc more fuel over AB with 1000 shots). Performance injectors will require performance modifications. If you decide to go that route then 160/30s or 205/30s are a popular option.
From my experience, nothing you do is going to make your 7.3L happy trying to pull a toy hauler. It's going to get hot (EGT-wise), it's not going to get out of its own way (4 speed auto), and more power is just going to exacerbate any shortcomings. The hills in Idaho will bring it to its knees no matter what you do to it.
do you think this is engine or transmission related?
Both. The 7.3L doesn't breathe well enough to make the kind of power needed for long pulls (duty cycle) without heating issues. Also, the ridiculously high first gear makes take-offs a pain, the wide ratio splits due to having only 4 forward gears means that the engine is never operating in a decent powerband, if it's 2wd, forget about backing up anywhere without blowing the torque converter hub seal out, and lastly, it may not be legal. The GCWR for 250/350 trucks is only about 20K. The truck likely weighs 7500-8500 by itself depending on configuration so figure only being able to put 12K worth of loaded trailer on it minus passengers and whatever fits in the bed.
@cleatus12r gets to a point, that I neglected to see....38ft is a hella big trailer. I tug around a 28ft 3h LQ trailer with my SRW F250 (up to 20k combined) ...and there are times that I wish I was running dually. 10 more feet? No way on a SRW and I can see the downfalls he brings up.
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